What needs to be forged?
What needs to be forged?
I am about to throw a LT1 in my 73 Z28. When I rebuild it I am going to stroke it to 383. Just wonding what all NEEDS to be forged to spray as safe as possible. I am kindna on a budget but I will spend the money for the right parts. I am going to build the motor for a N/A setup but would like to put a 100-200 shot on if I want to later on. I know the pistons need to be forged. Most stroker kits come with forged pistons and rods but the crank is cast steel/ nodular iron. Could I use this stoker kit with nitrous? Give me your ideas and wisdom.
Thanks,
Joshua
Thanks,
Joshua
the internal components need to be dictated by your goals for the vehicle.
What do you have in mind for the car?...I.E. I wanna run 8's etc
How much power do you plan to make, how much nitrous?
IMO...it is not that much more to buy a forged crank over a cast since you are buying a new one anyway.
What do you have in mind for the car?...I.E. I wanna run 8's etc
How much power do you plan to make, how much nitrous?
IMO...it is not that much more to buy a forged crank over a cast since you are buying a new one anyway.
I don't care how much power I have my goal is ET. My goal is 10.99999 or lower. Driving a 10 sec all motor car won't work on the street for the most part. So I was thinking have a engine that can run mid to high 11's. 383 stroker good heads and cam. Then add the nitrous later down the road to hit the 10 sec mark. I still would like to be able to daily drive or go on a long trip it if I wanted to.
I put 20+ 15 lbs. bottles through a stock 130K lt1 (hypertechtic), always spraying from 150-200 shot (wet NX). The only reason I quit is because I built a stroker motor for the Fleetwood ( yes fleetwood, lol)
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