What is the difference between a wet and dry nitrous kit? Which one is better with a blower?

 

Wet kits have the fuel and nitrous mixed together at the time of injection. Dry kits spray only nitrous into the intake, the additional fuel is added by the injectors.

I would stay away from the dry kits, since the amount of nitrous is not guaranteed to be uniform cylinder-to-cylinder even though the fuel is. That is a recipe for a lean cylinder.

 

I think you got it backwards the gas is not going to distribute evenely but the nitrous will. I would still recomend a wet kit on forced induction. Make sure you run it at a 1 to 1 boost compensation. Now if you have a stand alone ECU and big enough injectors then I would say run a dry kit and let the ECU and the fuel for it.

 

Nope...YOU got it wrong! Dry kits inject the nitrous at the front just like a wet kit, so the amount of nitrous in each cylinder could vary. But, since the additional fuel is coming from the injectors, each cylinder will get the same amount of fuel. So even if one cylinder is way lean, it will still only get the same amount of fuel as the other cylinders.

Thats why I like the wet kits. Fuel and N2O mixed together, so if one cylinder gets more, at least it gets more fuel too!

 

If nitrous weighing about the same as air won't go where it needs to. What makes you think gas will seeing as how it it weighs about 3 times as much as air or nitrous. And if you say that it is because the nozzle atomizes them so now they have the exact same flow characteristics then you need to re-think your logic. Even on manifolds designed to flow fuel you can get problems with fuel distribution. Talk to some of the guys that try and run big plate kits on carburetor cars. Even they go to foggers at some point because they get tired of leaning out cylinders. Wet kits have distribution problems that is why they back fire. Cylinder goes lean, cylinder back fires simple as that. The less you try and run through it the less chance of a back fire you have. In dry kits up to 300+hp I have never seen a problem with nitrous distribution. I have however seen numerous wet kits back fire due to improper fuel distribution. The amount of miss information about dry kits is staggering. If you like wet kits that's fine but don't spread fallacies about dry kits when you don't really understand how they truly work.

 

Have you ever seen an EFI dry kit? THE FUEL IS INJECTED INTO EACH INDIVIDUAL CYLINDER BY THE EFI INJECTOR DIRECTLY POINTED INTO THAT CYLINDER!!! How could the fuel go anywhere else??? The fuel distribution will be accurate to each and equal to each cylinder. Since the nitrous is NOT injected that way, the distribution can, and will, vary.

And as for the nitrous distribution, well, manifolds often have different amount of air to each cylinder based on manifold design. Just ask the 5.0 guys about that. Notorious for cylinders starved for air because of poor design.

 

That is the whole point if you don't think nitrous will distribute evenly what makes you think the fuel will. And the 5.0 guys have problems when running wet kits not dry kits. And yes I have seen a dry kit, like I said I’ve done everything from 50HP Hondas to 300Hp Mustang dry kit. You can choose to believe whatever you want but nitrous is very close in weight to air therefore it will flow through the manifold just like air, fuel on the other hand will not.

 

Hmmm.. that's funny. I just called NOS and their 300 HP Mustang kit is a plate system...which is WET not dry.

Go back and re-read my last post. Dry kits spray the nitrous at the front of the intake, where the fuel is injected directly down the cylinder head runner!!! That is why the fuel will be delivered precisely to each cylinder in a dry kit, but the nitrous will not.

 

Call NOS and ask them about some of the dry kits they have done for NMRA Real Street guys that got tired of popping manifolds with wet kits. And the 300Hp Big Shot kit goes between the upper and lower manifold so the fuel doesn't have to go through the plenum. You are correct the fuel on a dry kit does go right in the cylinder but so does the nitrous. You have yet to answer my question as to how the nitrous won't go to the cylinders but the fuel will if they are both injected at the throtle body. Wet kits back fire that is a known fact. Dry kits don't have that proplem but you are limited by the injectors. If you have big enough injectors you can do an extremly large dry kit. You just have to understand how it works. As I said before if you like wet kits that is fine they make good power and are fairly easy to install, and if you're willing to except the chance of a back fire then they will work fine for you. But don't perpetuate this garbage about nitrous not distributeing evenly and causeing lean cylinders. Because that is a bunch of crap.

 

I imagine he hasnt answered because he never made that claim. He basically said the additional nitrous/fuel ratio would stay the same in each cylinder with a wet kit. He didnt say that all cylinders would get the same volume of nitrous and fuel, as you're implying.

 

Exactly!

By the way, GM dry kits do not inject the nitrous right the cylinders. Which is why the cylinder-to-cylinder mixture can vary...

 

So what your're saying is gas and nitrous have the same flow characteristics. Is that it

 

Not even CLOSE!!! Did you even bother reading any of this thread?

 

You dumb ***! Who's nitrous setup are you looking at? A properly plumbed dry kit will have each dry nozzle plumbed either above the injector or into the plenum box with each dry nozzle taped directly above each runner. A dry kit is one of the best ways to go assuming you have a good aftermarket ECM to control the nitrous kit. If you knew anything about fuel injection and nitrous then you would know the dry kit is a better way to go. The nitrous atomizes with the fuel which will be mixing or coming together in the intake runner as it is drawn into the cylinder. Nitrous will be spraying into the fuel mist created from the injector.

Another reason the advantage of a dry kit is less items to hassel with such as no fuel solenoid or fuel system to worry about, the computer is adjusting the fuel according to the A/F ratio and tuneup a person has in it. Less weight because less parts are needed. Fuel is metered more precise and distributed via the computer and injector not to mention if there is a lean cylinder the computer will increase fuel to that cylinder.

I have ran wet kits for many years either a plate or direct port and regardless if you run a dry kit or wet you will be breaking parts. Dry kit utilizing the ECM for fuel wins hands down compared to a wet kit.

If you don't believe me then take a look at the top NMCA/NSCA guy's in Pro Street and Outlaw and see what they run, DRY KITS! Don't forget they are only spray two or three stages of dry nitrous at anythink from 250 to 500hp.

 

Only the one for LT1's you ****...

BTW, most NMCA cars run direct port systems...which are WET. Better stick to letting other people build your race car for you...