Is this ok. The reason I am asking is because I am debateing on getting a window switch. I plan on spraying at 3000 rpm`s and I would like to spray continuasly if possible. I can flip the switch myself at 3000rpm`s to turn it on without a window switch. I am just looking for a downside on this if there is one.

 

THat is exactly how you do it. Dont be so scared to use the nitrous below 3000 rpm. IT WONT HURT ANYTHING! These are all myths that people have made up about nitrous. Use it at wide open throttle, and dont worry about the rpm. Spray it from a dead stop, at the same time you hit the pedal, and hold on, cause you will be going for a ride. Dont let off the nitrous while you shift. The tranny doesnt know your using nitrous. Just hang on to the button, till you are at the top of third.

 

That is exactly what I wanted to hear, but is it ok to do this? I want to spray off of the line. Does anyone else spray off of the line on a stock motor? Thanks for all replies.

 

You ever here of something called a nitrous backfire.....must be a myth. I dont spray below 3000rpm because I dont want that myth to become a reality should the engine stall



------------------
Greg
95 Z28 conv M6
Georgia F-Body Association

Stage 1 heads, 1.6rr, Meziere WP
lt4 hot cam,lt4 timing chain kit,52mm TB,
Hooker Headers, Pro 5 shifter,3.73s,
NX 150 progressive,
Self-tuned via Tunercat

 

I used to spray out of the hole, and through the shifts. Until I had a nasty backfire that blew the **** out of my bellows, mafs and K&N. Now I use a window switch. It's your choice, but I think you're playing with fire, literally.

------------------
Mario,
White 94 Z28
Yeah I got a few mods
Video
Black 87 IROC-Z

 

I spray dope out of the hole and through the shifts too. Ran the times in the sig. Check out the pics of the wheels in the air on my webpage.

------------------
<A HREF="http://personal.msy.bellsouth.net/msy/k/r/kraest/derrick.htm" TARGET=_blank>1994 Z28 A4
LT1 Motorsports equipped stock-bottom end LT1, LT1 heads, Hydraulic-Roller Cam, Dope
11.03 @ 125.53 1.61 60ft.
7.08 @ 99.05 1/8 mile</A>

<A HREF="http://stangnet.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=229662" TARGET=_blank>1984 Mustang L
92' 5.0 roller motor, T5, NOS plate kit, etc.
13.44 @ 101.58 mph 1.95 60 ft. NA
</A>

[This message has been edited by Derrick Redd (edited September 15, 2002).]

 

BWAHAHA! I was getting ready to fall asleep and this hilarious post woke me back up. I pray for this guy's sake I've fallen asleep and I'm dreaming and that no one really posted that.

 

I spray through shifts and usually spray before 3k rpm.
I never had a window switch,and out of 9 years of nitrous use....only had 2 backfires.
My personal opinion is anything below 2k rpm is pushing it. I dont agree with "only above 3k rule" if you are full throttle,there shouldnt be the issue of "puddling" unless you have too big of a fuel jet in it.Just be warned a STOCK 4l60e wont be happy with nitrous shifts. Mine lasted for some abuse,but finally gave up,now it's built and shifts great while spraying.

------------------
Dirk
1997 TA A4
11.251@119.3 1.52 60',7.132@95.39 1/8
The RacinLT1
RacinLT1 pic's

 

Im glad Ive woken you up. Do you know what causes a backfire in the intake? The number 1 cause is LEAN. Not becuase you sprayed the nitrous at too low an rpm. Ive played with nitrous for over 10 years, even make my own kits. Nitrous is not black magic. These window switches that you guys so much think you need, is something that will help someone with a stick, but defineately not an automatic. How do i know this? I spray the nitrous right off the line, and keep it on through every shift. Its a 350 that runs 9 teens in a 3200 lb stock suspension car. Been there and done that with nitrous, and I will tell you that spraying at a low rpm, and through shifts is not what causes your "backfires". If the car pops through the exaust, its fat, if it backfires through the intake, its lean. Unless of course you have a valve misadjusted, and hangs open, in that case, the fire from the combustion chamber ignites the mixture in the intake, due to open intake valve, and boom. If you use an NOS kit, then all this info goes out the window. They are soooo fat, that you have all kinds of problems, like distribution, and fuel puddling, etc. If its an NX kit, just spray it at wide open throttle, and hang on. I dont know about it tearing up trannys, I build my **** to work with the hp that I have, so it doesnt hurt anything. If you question my knowledge on nitrous, and think Im so full of it, bring it. Prove me wrong. Enlighten me. You explain to me why nitrous cant be injected into a motor at less then 3000 rpm. I spray a goped with it, and thats at only 1200rpm. Driven a 79 tercel, with a nozzel and a 100 shot. Car ran a 12.80. It was a hoopty, but spanked some serious ***. Even drove it around with throttle blades closed, and only hitting the button. Cool *** ****. So back to the laughter. Explain to me why you cant inject nitrous into a motor below 3000 rpm, and dont tell me cause NOS says so.....They also say pull 2 degrees of timing for every 50 hp. Hahahahahha. Do you know why? Bet not!

[This message has been edited by CustomN2O (edited September 15, 2002).]

 

I was laughing about the spraying through shifts part. Not everyone has another grand to build/rebuild their tranny. It is PROVEN that your tranny will eventually go, and might go pretty soon depending on all the variables of spraying through shifts (tranny age, what shot, etc) Don't just go assuming that everyone owns a store, such as yourself, and has cash falling out of cracks in the wall so that when something goes, it's just a matter of picking up the phone and getting a replacement. There's very few guys on N20 tech that are running seriously built motors/trannies so why go assuming that they are. If I was z2894convertible and nobody replied to this thread after your initial post, then I went out spraying through shifts and had the tranny go, I would be wanting to beat some serious ***.

On to the theory of not spraying below 3K RPMS, I wasn't disagreeing with that, but it's puts more stress on the motor, and if you have a stock motor, then it's just gonna get weaker and weaker and eventually go. Why does it get weaker you say? Say you spray a 150 shot on a window switch from 3k to 6k. The amount of nitrous in each cylinder when you're at 6k is half of the amount when you're at 3k. So let's say you're spraying at 1500 RPMS. You have 4x's as much in there than at 6k and 2x's as much as 3k. This is putting serious stress on your motor over time. On your trailor queen you might not care about this. But most of us drive our cars everyday. I, myself, cannot afford for ANYTHING to go. If something breaks, I'm walking. That's why I'm using every safety method available (retard, window switch, FPSS, plugs, rev limiter, etc etc) Good day

 

Ok let me clarify.....Im not saying you cant spray before 3000rpm safely. I am saying that the lower the rpm when you spray the more stress on the engine. Lets say you spray at 2000rpm...at that rpm you may be producing 200hp(hypothetical) and you add a 100hp shot, your increasing your hp by 50% and your torque by close to 100% very quickly ....cylinder pressure is increased dramatically which increases the likelyhood of detonation. If you have a built lower end not as big a deal, but I wouldnt recommend it for a stock bottom. 3000 is a conservative # and I try to stay that way with spray.

As for the nitrous backfire issue, It was told to me this way: If your car stalls or stumbles and you sprayn you want your N20 system to shut down ASAP. If it does not you end up with excess N20 and fuel in the intake which can result in a backfire. Now that may not be correct but it made since to me.

As far as spraying thru shifts on an A4 .....I would , but dont expect the tranny to hold up long if you spray alot.

And on the subject of pulling timing......its not needed unless you have or expect to have detonation which is more likely with bigger shots because of increasing cylinder pressures.

I dont claim to be an expert and dont give any advice on use of N2O unless Im sure its sound.

 

"THat is exactly how you do it. Dont be so scared to use the nitrous below 3000 rpm. IT WONT HURT ANYTHING! These are all myths that people have made up about nitrous. Use it at wide open throttle, and dont worry about the rpm. Spray it from a dead stop, at the same time you hit the pedal, and hold on, cause you will be going for a ride. Dont let off the nitrous while you shift. The tranny doesnt know your using nitrous. Just hang on to the button, till you are at the top of third."

This runs counter to what 99% of people running nitrous will tell you, so I advise you to think twice (at least) before following this advice. Unless you are running a very small nitrous shot and/or have a very stout bottom end, spraying at very low rpm is a recipe for broken parts. By spraying at low rpm you cause cylinder pressures to rise very high. Think about it: for a given amount of hp cylinder pressures will be double at 1500rpm what they would be at 3000rpm. Obviously, that's what good about nitrous (lots of cylinder pressure = lots of hp) but you can too much of a "good thing". The stock pistons are just not up to a big nitrous shot at low rpm.

Rich Krause

 

I think that spraying at low rpm's is worst than spraying through the shifts.

But I won't do either. I would rather not take too many chances with my daily driver.

 

Well, thanks for thinking I have money falling out my ***....I wish. The business, is just a side job. I sell NX, and cheap at that, to try and help other people out. I dont make much doing it. The fabrication part, is another hobby. I built my whole car from scratch. The motor too, it has good parts, but when you look at the fact that it took me 4 years to build, you might think twice about saying I dont care if it blows up. In the 5 years that single motor has been running, I havent blown it up yet. The performance of it should speak enough to say that I must know what Im doing.
Your right when you say that spraying is going to wear the tranny out faster, but how so between shifts? If you are worried about it, install a 100 dollar shift kit, to eliminate the slippage in between gear changes, and the wear will go away. As for cylinder pressure, you are wrong in your RPM theory. 100hp at 3000 rpm, is no more fuel/oxygen mixture burning, then at 1000rpms. It takes a given amount of fuel and oxider to make a given hp. Thats how they rate their kits. It may sound good to you, and make some sense, but its not right. The thing you have to look at with nitrous at low rpm is the TORQUE. Do you know how to figure hp? Not getting into the mathematics here, but it takes so much tourque at a given rpm to make x hp. So the higher the rpm your 100hp is being made, the less torque its producing. So, if you can "ADD" 100 hp at 1500 rpms, think about how much torque that is making. In case you didnt know, torque is what moves your car.
Another note. Im not saying to drive your car around at 1500rpm and squeeze the button, Im saying squeeze it at whatever rpm, AS LONG AS YOU ARE AT FULL THROTTLE. Trust me, Im not pulling this out of my ***, been playing with this stuff for a long time, and the guy that teaches me, and helps me, was around when this stuff was first designed. (Ran Top Gun when the Hawk/SHark nozzle was designed. Taught James Jureski (TNT Nitrous owner). Im just trying to pass on some useful information to fellow nitrous users. If you refuse to believe it, then so be it. But I guarantee my racer will always beat you, with the same parts!

 

This may be a pretty elementary question, but how do you not spray thought shifts? Is it as simple as using a button and just let off before the shift point, or is there a window switch involved?

James