Spraying lots of nitrous- Need help, advice and predictions
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Joined: Aug 2001
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From: looking for a flow bench so Brook and I can race
Spraying lots of nitrous- Need help, advice and predictions
Hey guys-
I'm pretty new to this nitros gig so goes nothing.
My bottom end will be fine-
Forged, billet and bad ***.
I want to spray 225 shot- but i want at least dual stage.
Should I go with a 20# bottle?
Thing is though, 225 shot = !traction on street.
what if-
I set up an inline resistor to the soliniod, and for the road set it at 1/2 open?
this way if things got hot and heavy i cold turn it upto 225 in 3rd gear and tear through 80-130
after that, no matter what i'm shutting down a race (probobly before that anyway, like 110)
also, is there anything wrong with spraying to 6500rpms?
What kind of nitrous system do yo guys suggest, how much will it cost and how are installations on these things?
FWIW i'm gonna mount them in wide open sight
I'm pretty new to this nitros gig so goes nothing.
My bottom end will be fine-
Forged, billet and bad ***.
I want to spray 225 shot- but i want at least dual stage.
Should I go with a 20# bottle?
Thing is though, 225 shot = !traction on street.
what if-
I set up an inline resistor to the soliniod, and for the road set it at 1/2 open?
this way if things got hot and heavy i cold turn it upto 225 in 3rd gear and tear through 80-130
after that, no matter what i'm shutting down a race (probobly before that anyway, like 110)
also, is there anything wrong with spraying to 6500rpms?
What kind of nitrous system do yo guys suggest, how much will it cost and how are installations on these things?
FWIW i'm gonna mount them in wide open sight
dytjt
First off, I may have seen you in the Z on I-75 today. Am I correct?
Spraying 200+ on top of a nice stroker motor would mean no traction on the street until about 4th gear on the street. I'd suggest that you invest in some stock sized Et Streets and be DAMn careful on rainy days
A "nitrous mastermind" or a Progressive Controller would be your best bet. Instead of running a dual stage, you can just set two ***** for what percentage of the 225 shot you wanted from 0-100% and you can also control how fast you want that percentage to be applied. Probably from 0-10 seconds. It definately helps with traction tuning at the track!
6500 RPM? If you want. However, many people see quicker ETs when they short shift their nitrous application. Mainly because nitrous oxide produces brutal amounts of low end torque. Spraying below 2500-3000 is a thing you shouldn't do and a rule of thumb for some people. Some people believe in it, others scrape their parts off the road because their engine just got hit with roughly 1000 lb-ft of torque...hehe
I spray at 2500 through 5500. I did a few calculations and while engaged at 2500 RPM, my 100 shot of spray makes my little stock 305 bottom end produce something like 425 or 500 lb-ft of TQ for that split second. And ya know what? It definately feels like it
A 20lb bottle would be nice with a big shot. OR dual 15's
Goodluck and pray for traction.
Spraying 200+ on top of a nice stroker motor would mean no traction on the street until about 4th gear on the street. I'd suggest that you invest in some stock sized Et Streets and be DAMn careful on rainy days

A "nitrous mastermind" or a Progressive Controller would be your best bet. Instead of running a dual stage, you can just set two ***** for what percentage of the 225 shot you wanted from 0-100% and you can also control how fast you want that percentage to be applied. Probably from 0-10 seconds. It definately helps with traction tuning at the track!
6500 RPM? If you want. However, many people see quicker ETs when they short shift their nitrous application. Mainly because nitrous oxide produces brutal amounts of low end torque. Spraying below 2500-3000 is a thing you shouldn't do and a rule of thumb for some people. Some people believe in it, others scrape their parts off the road because their engine just got hit with roughly 1000 lb-ft of torque...hehe
I spray at 2500 through 5500. I did a few calculations and while engaged at 2500 RPM, my 100 shot of spray makes my little stock 305 bottom end produce something like 425 or 500 lb-ft of TQ for that split second. And ya know what? It definately feels like it

A 20lb bottle would be nice with a big shot. OR dual 15's

Goodluck and pray for traction.
TREYZ28-
you can work a dual stage on the street just fine. OR you could do the progressive. its really just like its been with everything else, how deep your pockets are.
if youve got the $$$, then id say go all out. get whatever floats your boat. kits will start most places around 600 bucks and go on up into the 1000s. id get all the safety stuff, guages/switches/controllers/etc. the word of the day is EXCESSERIZE(sp)
if your working on a budget, you can do it much cheaper. i put mine together for under $400 and ive heard of people buying used peices and putting them together, although i personally wouldnt recommend that. all my stuff was brand new.
but yea, a dual stage would work fine. like a 100/125. EITHER way, you WILL need some ETs streets/QT Pros to get traction on the street with that beast of a motor.
as far as installation, its fairly simple. your gonna want to get a WET kit. let me say that again, WET KIT
i imagine youve prolly been a part of at least part of some of you cars build up, and if your even halfway mechanically inclined, you shouldnt have any problem. any kit you get will come with instructions that are pretty easy to follow.
good luck and ask as many Qs as you want!
jon
you can work a dual stage on the street just fine. OR you could do the progressive. its really just like its been with everything else, how deep your pockets are.
if youve got the $$$, then id say go all out. get whatever floats your boat. kits will start most places around 600 bucks and go on up into the 1000s. id get all the safety stuff, guages/switches/controllers/etc. the word of the day is EXCESSERIZE(sp)
if your working on a budget, you can do it much cheaper. i put mine together for under $400 and ive heard of people buying used peices and putting them together, although i personally wouldnt recommend that. all my stuff was brand new.
but yea, a dual stage would work fine. like a 100/125. EITHER way, you WILL need some ETs streets/QT Pros to get traction on the street with that beast of a motor.
as far as installation, its fairly simple. your gonna want to get a WET kit. let me say that again, WET KIT
i imagine youve prolly been a part of at least part of some of you cars build up, and if your even halfway mechanically inclined, you shouldnt have any problem. any kit you get will come with instructions that are pretty easy to follow.good luck and ask as many Qs as you want!
jon
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,505
From: looking for a flow bench so Brook and I can race
can someone exain the different systems
i know dry and a TB plate
i know the rest too, just dont know names
is fogger where it mixes with fuel?
expain advantages and disadvantages of each please
i know dry and a TB plate
i know the rest too, just dont know names
is fogger where it mixes with fuel?
expain advantages and disadvantages of each please
I would go with the TNT kit from www.nitrous-power.com I have heard really good things and just ordered one myself. Many problems, is your motor built for n2o? With a shot of that nature you will need new pistons of some sort and probly a raised compression ratio. Spraying to 6500 is bad, because if you bounce of the rev limiter when spraying you can say bye bye to your engine and your car until you get more money and time to fix it. I also agree with the not below 2500 rpm, even if your engine(allparts) handles it, no traction.
Dual stage, hmmm....I believe actually sell electronics that will vary the amount of spray at a particular rpm, maybe not the spray, but it will work similar to a traction control or something like that. As you can tell I'm not that familure with this item, but believe it exsists.
I highly recomend the TNT system though! As well the piston change, 150 is about the biggest shot I would venture to on stock internal motor. Raised compression too helps n2o BIG time!!(low comp for SC)
Good Luck!!!
Dual stage, hmmm....I believe actually sell electronics that will vary the amount of spray at a particular rpm, maybe not the spray, but it will work similar to a traction control or something like that. As you can tell I'm not that familure with this item, but believe it exsists.
I highly recomend the TNT system though! As well the piston change, 150 is about the biggest shot I would venture to on stock internal motor. Raised compression too helps n2o BIG time!!(low comp for SC)
Good Luck!!!
Originally posted by treyZ28
can someone exain the different systems
i know dry and a TB plate
i know the rest too, just dont know names
is fogger where it mixes with fuel?
expain advantages and disadvantages of each please
can someone exain the different systems
i know dry and a TB plate
i know the rest too, just dont know names
is fogger where it mixes with fuel?
expain advantages and disadvantages of each please
http://www.go-fast.org/z28/new_to_nitrous.html
put together by a fellow board member LPEDAVE
Personally, I've had good luck with 2 nx nozzles in the intake boot, but if I wasnt worrying about a budget, I'd have a Direct port fogger system with a progressive controller.
Last edited by speedmiser; Feb 5, 2003 at 11:13 PM.
IMO, and others, it's not a good idea to spray over 150 through the throttle body, but that is your choice. You will risk the chance of fuel puddling in the intake and a backfire, and unequal distribution.
For 200+ shots, the best way to go is direct port. Here is a write-up on my current install:
Direct Port Install
Direct Port Fuel System

Running big nitrous is fairly expensive. You can expect to spend in the range of $1500-$2000 for a setup such as mine if you do the work. Expect more like $3k if you pay someone for this level.
For 200+ shots, the best way to go is direct port. Here is a write-up on my current install:
Direct Port Install
Direct Port Fuel System

Running big nitrous is fairly expensive. You can expect to spend in the range of $1500-$2000 for a setup such as mine if you do the work. Expect more like $3k if you pay someone for this level.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,505
From: looking for a flow bench so Brook and I can race
after much concideration,
i think i'm going with FAST and a 20# bottle shooting progressivly to a max of 750hp- (whatever my max will be on the dyno)
Progressive nitrous controller + dyno tune + any more tunes= most of the cost of the DFI anyway
i think i'm going with FAST and a 20# bottle shooting progressivly to a max of 750hp- (whatever my max will be on the dyno)
Progressive nitrous controller + dyno tune + any more tunes= most of the cost of the DFI anyway
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,505
From: looking for a flow bench so Brook and I can race
Originally posted by Reckless
Why stop at 750? Go until a rod flys through the hood
Why stop at 750? Go until a rod flys through the hood
700-750 is a nice number depending on rpms

you can only get so much down on the street

well that and all i want is one 10 sec time slip and its going down
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,505
From: looking for a flow bench so Brook and I can race
Originally posted by Mikael
Missing out on a few things here.
A. As mentioned, the cost can get up there, but not too bad if you plan it out.
B. Fuel. I don't know what you have, but you'll most likely need another fuel system for the nitrous.
C. I honestly think that a 3 or 4 stage setup with 50hp per will be better for you, since its somewhat controllable.
Not to seem too f&f style, but a switch on the wheel for each that you can easily reach. 1 stage per gear.
Seems a bit excessive, but i think will end up cheaper. That way if you only do 150, you dont' need a direct port, just 3 nozzles.
Missing out on a few things here.
A. As mentioned, the cost can get up there, but not too bad if you plan it out.
B. Fuel. I don't know what you have, but you'll most likely need another fuel system for the nitrous.
C. I honestly think that a 3 or 4 stage setup with 50hp per will be better for you, since its somewhat controllable.
Not to seem too f&f style, but a switch on the wheel for each that you can easily reach. 1 stage per gear.
Seems a bit excessive, but i think will end up cheaper. That way if you only do 150, you dont' need a direct port, just 3 nozzles.


