The line between the two fuel rails which has the shrader valve mounted to it, has worked itself loose and is spraying fuel.

On top of it i had mounted a special t-fitting so that i could connect both the fuel line for the nitrous system and the fitting for the fuel pressure gauge....

I think it worked itself loose because of the additional weight of the fuel pressure gauge connection...its an electronic gauge...therefore it has a special sender unit...

Has this happened to anyone before....how did you fix it....
what do you recommend to do....

I was thinking to take apart the fuel rail...have the shrader valve re-mounted again....and on a seperate part of the fuel rail..drill and tap a hole to mount the connection for the fuel pressure gague....is this a good idea...

Thanks in advance for your replies....

 

I actually snapped off my schreader valve when installing my fuel pressure gauge adapter. I removed the rails, disassembled and cleaned them, and took the valve and the line that needed to be fixed to a welder. He welded the valve back on and said he has done this to a few of them so they are fairly weak. Better than new now and definately stronger.

 

Can i disconnect the line without removing the fuel rails?

 

I would have to look at it again as I do not remember off the top of my head. With the way the F-body has the back of the rails under the dash I would think it would be easer to remove the whole fuel rail assembly though.

 

you have to take the rails off, then there are two small torx screws that hold the cross pipe in. I broke mine taking off the naaawwzzz hose.. they are just brazed in at the factory. Make sure whoever welds it knows what they are doing.. mine leaked the first time I had it fixed.

 

Its always a mistake to put the weight of the sender or anything else on the Schrader connection. I like the NOS 17535 -4AN 90-deg swivel elbow..... that allows you to aim the elbow any way you want, without trying to overtighten it. Then run a 24" NOS -4AN hose with 1/8" NPT threads on one end, and use a 1/8" NPT coupling (single attachment) or 1/8" NPT "tee" for multiple attachments. Gets the weight of the stuff off the Schrader - which someone told me is only "swedged" onto the line, not actually brazed.

I have seen a setup where someone cut the section of the line that the Schrader is attached to out of the line, then got a new Schrader and stuck it inbetween the cut portions with rubber hose and clamps. I personally do not like rubber lines under the hood, but that is one way to avoid the high cost replacement parts.

I had the passenger side fuel rail drilled at about the midpoint, and had a 1/8" NPT fitting welded on for the pressure sensor.

 

I may have been the one Fred was talking about with the cut out section. I had posted pics on the board about a year ago. I made sure to use fuel injection clamps and a special fuel tubing. It worked, but I only kept it like that for a few months until I bought a new rail. Once I bought the rail, I used a bunch of JB weld around the base of the schrader valve to stregthen the whole thing. It worked great. Also use a swivel fittling like Fred discussed.

 

The big problem with the schraeder valve is that the ID is only around 1/8". With any kind of decent shot, you're going to set-off the fuel pressure safety switch a few times when you hit the button. It's also very weak at the joint, as some of you have learned.

It's much better to make a Y somewhere along the line.

 

Thanks for your replies,

I ended up taking apart the fuel rail and had the shrader valve, silver soldered (not sure if i spelled that correctly) back onto that line. The guy said he's done this a few times before and recommended this method because its just as stron as welding but you don't have to heat the metal up as much. I reasambled everything back together and so far so good. Everything seems to be working right and not leaking any fuel pressure.