As mentioned in the topic, i recently descreened and have installed a new K&N filter. As suggested, I reset my PCM - but did not let it idle for 5 minutes afterwards...instead took it out, drove it a bit and floor it a couple of times before the 100 mile break in.

This may have been the problem - but i figure i'd post the questions here anyways.

Last night, while spraying the power was there in 1st, but when second came up, the car dropped in RPMS and then chugged like it was in a higher gear like 3rd...the spray had no effect as far as what it should...it was almost like the MAF was sending the wrong signal and wasn't pumping more fuel into the injectors. of course I stopped....then tried again from a 50 (2nd gear) roll and the same thing happened, the RPM'S drop to about 2800 rpm at WOT and the car slowly accerlates instead of jumping on it.

Now, WITHOUT spray, the car is behaving normally - yetm under a 125 dry shot, the car wigs out.

Is the MAF sending the wrong info to the computer?

I just reset the PCM again and this time, let the car idle for 5 minutes as suggested in another thread. Any other ideas guys?

KASR

 

I'm not familiar with the LS1's but it sounds like your out of N2O, when mines out it(wet kit) it sprays all fuel and as result the car stumbles big time. You sure you got enough in the bottle, PSI up to par, bottle open. I'm sure you've checked this out, just throwing out some opinion's.

 

Well, the bottle was filled the night before and it was the first outing with the new bottle - so that's out.

what about if the solenoid is on the bottle end of the 12' hose from where it's actually being sprayed? would that cause the n20 to atomize alittle too much???

KASR

 

Are you saying that you have your noid back by the bottle? Thats the way I took that last response. I would'nt think that would be a good idea, thats along way to push that N2o. If you have run it before all this stuff started happening and it worked then I guess it will work that way, but if is the 1st time using the N2O then I would check into moving the noid on the engine end of the line.

 

yep, you assumed correctly...i am placing the noid up in the engine bay to see if that helps as well.

KASR

 

What was the psi at? If the bottle was cold you would have that problem, that doesn't explain why it was fine in first gear

 

bottle was at 925 psi

KASR

 

have you run it with this set up before? I've never heard of anyone putting the noid back there, if you dont mind me asking, what was the reason? Did you make sure the bottle was open? Take the N2o line off at the nozzle and spray it AWAY from the car, safely, if thats possible in that situation. If your running a wet kit I would guess to put the fuel line in say a empty anti-freeze jug or something big with a rag around it to keep it from spraying out. I'm not sure how hard the fuel will come out so be careful!! Hold on to the lines and have someone activate the N2O and see what its spraying like. Like I said I know its not a safe way but its the only way I know how to test the noids.