rockholt454

i have a nos system it has 75,85,100 shot jets with which shood i run to be safe?also this is a dry system and i have a purge kit to go with it, is actually worth purging a dry system or is it mainley for show?and is there any one that has a dry system that could tell me how it feels i know that dry just aint the way to go but ive already got it im not buying another kit.basically im asking do i get the same afect as a wet kit

Injuneer

What's wrong with "dry"? A buddy of mine ran 10.5 with the NOS dry kit on his 99 SS. I ran an NOS dry kit on my LT1 for 5 years, and still run a custom dry setup at the 300HP level. May not be a popular way to do it, but it works for me.

Purging clears out any vapor phase nitrous in the main supply line. That means the liquid nitrous hits the nozzle faster. It doesn't matter whether its a wet or dry system. If there is a delay in the liquid phase nitrous hitting the solenoid, there will be a brief period when its running rich. I guess if you made the fuel line from the solenoid to the nozzle long enough in a wet system, you could dealy both the fuel and the nitrous, and just wait longer for it to hit.

rockholt454

i dont know that any thing is wrong with it ive just been told by many people that wet was the way to go, im about to find out though ive never sprayed it yet.

Moshbmx1

A wet kit is easier to tune and doesnt require one to change fuel injectors. This because of the extra fuel needed coming out of the line and injected with the nitrous rather than inside of the engine

Bandit 1

An Ls1 can handle a 100 shot all day long, your safe

Injuneer

Not on an LS1..... it sprays through the MAF, and the results are fine. And you don't need to change injectors up to the 125HP level. Don't confuse your LT1 with an LS1.

BigDB

so should a wet kit on a LS1 not spray before the MAF since the added fuel is alresy there? previous owner of my car had a NX wet kit before the maf and then tuned it.

Injuneer

Spraying nitrous through the MAF works on a dry system because the mass flow is increased because of the added nitrous and the MAF sensor picks up the added mass flow (although it is not compensating for the increased O2 concentration in nitrous vs air, nor for any difference in the specific heat of nitrous vs. air)

And heat loss from the MAF's hot wire is increased because of auto-cooling from the nitrous phase change. That causes the MAF sensor to report an even higher mass air flow. The combined effect is to not only supply the extra fuel for the nitrous, but to richen the A/F ratio because the MAF sensor is interpreting the heat lost to the latent heat of vaporization of the nitrous as increased mass flow. Probably just lucky that it works out that way.

Spraying a wet system before the MAF would be a bit of a hit or miss situation. The MAF works by measuring heat loss and doing a calculation based on the specic heat of air. Adding nitrous to the mix throws the calculaton off, because the specific heat is different than air, but apparently its close enough that the error isn't too big. But hit the wires in the MAF sensor with a blend of air, nitrous flashing from liquid to vapor, and wet fuel, and its hard to understand how the MAF sensor could measure the flow accurately, and if it did, it would include the fuel mass. Then the PCM would add some unknown quantity of fuel to match the totally screwed up MAF signal.

Somehow I think if it worked at all, it was pure luck.

LBJ

I ran the NOS 5177 kit and it has evolved into a NOS/NX kit over time but it is still "Dry"....... As long as your motor is stock.... bolt ons only you can run the 100shot without having to upgrade the fuel system. Just install some TR6 plugs gapped at about .035 and run the basic saftey equipment.

I started out with a 96rwhp shot and have worked my way up to a 135rwhp but with 42# injectors and a Walbro 255lph intank pump and ofcoarse you have to have a great tuner......... Allan Futral owner of FMS is my tuner.

The 100 shot will give you a nice kick in the pants!!