I'm currently trying to sell my '94, but I figure if it no one is interested, I might give the juice a try (and then no one will want it )

I'm trying to get an idea of what I would need for a basic kit with a 75 or 100 shot.

I've done some searching, and here's what I have determined so far:

- wet kits seem more substantial and run less risk of detonation/backfiring
- a window switch is needed to keep from spraying through shifts and killing the tranny.
- stock fuel system should be sufficient for a 100 shot
- a bottle warmer helps keep the system functioning properly.

My goal would be to have a system that is set up 100% properly without shortcuts that may lead to engine damage. What are any other good tips that you would recommend? This will be used only at the track, so if that makes a difference, you can keep that in mind. I've never researched nitrous much before this, so forgive the ignorance. The search function was helpful, but I'm looking for more general info, which complicates the process.

Also for those of you with A4's, what is your technique? Do you wait until the shift to 2nd to spray, or just punch it and rely on the window switch? I would assume ET streets would be necessary to get any traction while spraying in first, but do not know how it would work on the track. From what I can gather, a 100 shot should get me low 12's with everything else that I have, if I do a decent job on the launch.

Thanks for your help.

 

All correct, except this:

"- wet kits seem more substantial and run less risk of detonation/backfiring"

Nitrous backfires usually happen from nitrous and fuel pooling in the intake manifold, there is less risk of this on a dry kit. However to prevent detonation a wet kit is usually safer because if you don't have enough fuel coming from the injectors or lock them up (100% duty cycle will lock stock injectors closed) then you will majorly detonate. Dry kits are just as safe when set up properly for the right amount of nitrous on the right car.

 

You definitely should go with a wet shot, a window switch, a bottle heater, and a purge valve. From reading your post, you seem to have done your homework. We sell a "total performance package" that comes with all of the parts listed above.... It can be found here: Total Package

 

To answer your question about the technique for an a4, I just let the window switch do the work at the track. Since I don't have a higher stall converter my car catches traction below 3k and that is when the juice is programed to come on. Street traction is a different story, I have lost traction at 65 with the juice flowing. Also one thing you might want to add to your list is a fuel pressure saftey switch. Also I see that your mods are similar to mine. My car without N2O would run 13.7@ 99mph all day long. When I used the 75hp shot my et dropped to 13.1@ 109mph. Once the track opens back up I am going to bump the shot up to 100 hp. So if you aren't already close to the 12 sec mark stock don't be upset that your car doesn't make it to low 12's.

 

If you're currently running platinum plugs, you should replace them with non-platinum plugs and go one heat range cooler. Autolite 104's and NGK TR6 are common plugs that people run. Platinum plugs will retain more heat and you'll run the risk of pre-detonation.

 

Great info guys, thanks. One thing to note, I do have a higher stall converter that I do not list in my sig. The previous owner had it put in, and did not remember what the guy sold him. My guess is that it's probably a 2800 based on driving characteristics. From what I can gather, that will probably be worth an extra .2-.3 at the track.

Thanks to the Mac mids, changing the plugs won't be a big deal.