I want to bracket race next year, but with my best of 14.51 @ 98 this year, I'm still .52 slow to qualify. (but all my runs were withing .2 of 14.51), they need a 13.99 to qualify here.

I think with new plugs and wires and the little tune up things I could have dropped that to a 14.5 consistantly.

Now, I have a dual stage, was planning a 75 shot first stages based on my MSD window, and then a 75 with a button. and only use the button if the other guy is going to beat me across the line, to kinda make up the couple hundreths at the end of the track. (maybe use a 100 on the window if I need that to get me to 13.99, then 50 on the button)

But what I really want to know is what do I need to run as consistant as I can with N2O and a M6.
I'm really not in it to really win, but have fun as it will be my first season on competition and second of racing.

 

Just run a 100 shot. And its verry hard to be consistant with a manual car

 

I agree that bracket racing is pretty tough with a manual transmission but it can be done it just takes a ton of practice. I certainly don't have the talent to do it, but I have seen it done. I know a guy that runs the NMCA EFI11 class that wins consistanly with a 5 speed Mustang but it definately takes a talented person. The class runs on a 11.00 index and he consistantly runs low11.0's and he does have a NX nitrous system also. Thanks

 

Forget about the manual causing problems the nitrous will be the big issue.

You can gain +/- 25HP on a 100 shot just due to bottle pressure differences.

OK, so you get a pressure sensitive bottle heater and you'll just use that right? Think again, mine drains my battery with the car off in about 15 minutes which is about a 50PSI difference.

You'll also run out of nitrous quickly - about 4 to 5 passes per 10lb bottle so you'll have to bring multiple bottles AND keep the ones not in the car warm as well....

If it were heads up racing it's not such a big deal but the consistancy requirements for bracket racing takes nitrous out as a CHEAP power adder for this.

That's my 2 cents.

Mike

 

Dont do nitrous for brackets.....you want be consistant and it will be expensive. A few bolt ons and some drag radials should get you qualified for about the same initial money as a nitrous kit.

 

Just run the window switch, and try that. The button will just make you break out. And pressure will make the biggest variable, but if you keep it in check, it should be ok. And get a spare bottle. You'll use alot if you do well. It'll be fun anyway. That's if you already have the nitrous. Otherwise, I agree with the bolt-on route. Way better for being consistant. And way less of a pain in the a$$.

 

nitrous can be consistent,albeit not quite good enough for brsckets. and i also have an auto.

2 months back i ran 11.03/11.09/11.06/11.022/11.11 in 1 day of racing on the hose.