Tell me guys hows it work? Details? I am just wondering the whole concept of it, hows it work and shifting gears? Spraying? Thanks fellas, I'm close to gettin a kit but I the only thing keepin me from it is wondering how it works on a 6 speed if you have to have to be totally goin at it before you spray or if you spray and there is somethin that controls it between shifts...Help

 

personally ive done a window switch and the NX maximizer.

with the window switch, you also use a WOT switch. the window switch activates the nitrous when the rpm range is with in your set range. most people with m6's start at about 3k and stop ~100-200 rpm before the desired shift rpm. the WOT is set in such a way that the nitrous will only activate if the car is WOT and the rpms are with in the window switch settings.

the maximizer does all the stuff above and more. but it will cost you. its a pogressive controller. so it can partially open a solenoid unlike other setups that are on off. this device will also learn your shift points. you can program it to handle the nitrous differently for each gear. ie for a clean launch on street tires, you dont really want a 150 shot off the line. i start my shot at about 3300 and open the nitrous 60% and step to 90%, then in 2nd, i start it at 85% and step it to 100% so on so on. you can also control how fast it steps from the starting to finishing %.

 

So its pretty much gonna spray when I have it set to on what rpm, then it will stop on the rpm i desire, so say i wanna spray at 3k rpm's and i shift at 6, i could set it to stop at like 5600 rpms? Sounds pretty siomple...Anything else you could tell me or recommend?

 

i recomend all the safty stuff out there.

i really reccomend the fuel pressure safty switches. those will turn off the nitrous if the fuel presure drops bellow what you specify.

Also for safty you can run 2 nitrous solenoids in paralell so that if one solenoid fails, the nitrous flow can still be stopped. Pricey though

if you are going the way of the window switch, also get a retard box. a general rule of thumb is 2º retard per 50 shot of N2O. if you get the car tuned for what shot you are running, you will probly end up with less retard than that tho.

also nitrous performance is wholy related to bottle pressure. a bottle warmer is a requirement. i really like the NX kit because it bases its performance on actual bottle psi, not bottle temp. temp is great and all, but the pressure is going to be different on a bottle that is full at 85º and a 1/2 empty bottle at 85º.

for kits if you have not picked one up, my personal fav and what i have installed on my car is TNT. This is good ****! also check out this for a good begining to what is happening and some other stuff you can do for safty.

 

all kits come with a WOT switch. All that happens is you arm the system, then whenever your are WOT the juice will spray. Thats the concept for a basic kit. It doesn't care what gear you are in, when u shifted, if you have a manual, auto, etc. But it doesn't matter you have to let off the gas to shift anyway, so just arm the system, stay above 3k and don't hit the rev limiter, and go WOT and smile.

And your just starting out, you don't need a progressive controller. Start small with say a 50 shot to get used to it. And as mentioned, a bottle heater is pretty much NEEDED, i couldn't imagine not having one. Purge is good to, mroe for show though.

As far as safety, yeah you can do all that was mentioned, but you know play at your own risk. I don't run a FPSS, I just run a window switch, colder plugs, and ignition. The one safety you NEED is a window switch, thats your best friend. And, 2 degrees per 50 shot, really not necesary you can spray a 100 shot NO RETARD as long as you have colder plugs and a strong ignition. I monitor my car with a scanmaster and O2's, 100 shot doesn't need timing pulled. Run 93 octane though. Just monitor for knock and lean conditions, lean and nitrous oxide is not good. Happy sprayin. Oh, and get a wet kit, only way to spray. I use NX.


Brian

 

The NX Maximizer Progressive is something you can "grow into". Which means if you get addicted (good chance) you can always run a bit more without the "slam" on your driveline. Also with a manual, you'll have direct lock-up and the progressive will help soften the blow to the rear and trans.

With the NX Maximizer, you can also have the program calculate what gears you want it to shoot in and also when to reset. For example, I've got 4.10s but I don't want a shot in 1st gear. But when I'm running through the canyons in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th... I may be in 4th for 6 seconds on a short straight... the NX Maximizer can be programmed to time for 5 seconds then "reset" to my gear of choice which is 2nd. As I leave the apex and roll on the throttle.. as I straighten onto the next run it will be ready for me and I will be in the right RPM. PS - I don't recommend N2O IN the corner... that is an instant spinout.

You can download the program on the Nitrous Express website and test it out for free... look at the windows and parameters. Very cool!

 

If you go to the site in my sig there is a FAQ section that will explain a lot about window switches. If you shift at 6 the you would want to turn off at about 5800 or 5900.

 

Get the window switch or NX Maximizer...

Either way, on sec of wheel spin and your RPMs will pop your engine real quick on N2O.

 

the wheel spin is why the maximizer is so bad ***. you can start at a % then open up to 100%. it also allows you to open over any course of time you want. maximizer rules!

 

I am still trying to decide if a progressive controller is a good idea. I don't like the thought of using my solenoids as flow control devices. They weren't designed to work like that. But, it is hard to argue with the results.

 

the maximizer has been proven to be effective. there is no other way to gain this type of control and flexibility. plus if you dont want to use the progrssive features, you dont have to. you can set it to be 100% open when active.