Well I've actually had it 'installed' for 6 weeks or so, but I'm running into a problem so I've been running the bypass harness. The 'start retard' (mode 4) is always active, regardless of current RPM. It's only supposed to be active < 500rpm. By default it's at 0.1* and while the car is idling at 825rpm if I press the down arrow one time, it cycles back to the highest value of 10* and the car gets all kinds of jumpy, sputtering and whatnot. This cant be good! That means that its also taking out at least 0.1* at all times when at the minimal value.

I have it installed in the glove box, wires running up through the firewall behind and under the PCM, across the back of the motor just under the overhang and forward along the top of the driver side valve cover. Pretty invisible. Every electrical connection is wrapped in black electrical tape and all wires are bundled into a long 1/2" split loom. Another interesting thing is that the split loom containing the wires to power the unit is still nice and new looking, whereas the exact same brand and size loom containing the actual ignition wires has this dusty white stuff covering its entire length...ideas there??

 

Sorry I've not replied to your PM. I've been really busy lately and forgot about it. The only thing I can think of besides the wiring is that the box is defective. I would try to call mallory using their tech section here - http://www.mrgasket.com/mallorymain.html

They helped me with my wiring problem when we tried to wire it up to the coil instead of using the connector from jegs. I think the guys name was Dennis and he was super nice. You could probably at least have him maybe send you a new box to see if something's wrong with that one or he might have an idea of what's wrong. Keep me updated, laters man.

 

Yeah I called them Saturday to find Support only available Mon-Fri so I'll pull the box out and call them tomorrow. Ugh.

 

Well I talked to a Mallory tech for about 30 minutes the other day. He said that they get NO complaints about this box and that this situation is highly unusual. He called me back the day after we initially talked and suggested maybe I have an early make box which would have the early firmware on it...there was some issue where the spark was hitting at greater than 20 degree duration and messing with some computer-controlled cars. The s/n on my box says 1800 so he thinks i have an early model...the new ones got a firmware update limiting the spark to 20 deg duration.

The timing retard set in mode 4 still affects how the car runs at all RPMs though so there must be something else funny.

FYI he also said the multiple spark only occurs under about 3200-3300 rpm because above that the spark is strong enough. thought that was good info.

 

So what're you gonna do? Try and get a diff box? I could send you mind sometime and you could try it out.

 

They were more than happy to accept the box and have their engineers run through it. They said they have a Z28 'in the back' as well as a 502 Ramjet and that they'd do whatever they can to either fix it or replace it depending on the diagnosis. Really great guys. I spoke with Terry over there, at first I think he was in disbelief but after a little talking he realized my issue was genuine.

Before I send it in, however, I'm going to rewire it with the stock length wires included and put the box up by the air filter just for grins...if it still doesn't perform, it's got to be an internal problem.

another FYI - Terry said that if there are any ignition problems (after I mentioned the OptiSpark and its history) that the multiple-spark would greatly amplify it and might be mistaken for trouble with the unit itself...

 

The mallory guys really sound like they have their act together. We had nothing but top notch service when we were trying to figure out how to wire the box up. I've heard such things as an aftermarket ignition box wearing out the opti due to higher voltage, but to me the multiple spark amplifying the problem doesn't seem right to me on this one. I'm sure it happens, but you're start retard shouldn't always be active. I'm thinking that's a bigger problem than the multiple spark wearing out the opti. How many miles are on the opti, BTW? Original unit? I wouldn't rule out the possibility of higher voltage problems, though. Hope you get everything worked out. This box is really a piece of art, though. Just hope yours starts acting like it Laters, Brian.

 

I have heard great things about their customer service. Read here: http://www.impalassforum.com/cgi-bin...&f=33&t=003052

 

I have been using this box for about 3mo. without a hitch. I too have it in the glove box so I can set it up the way I want with ease.......you cant beat the features for the money.

 

gb95zconv and Dave, I've forgot to ask this before. Apparently my high speed retard isn't wired right. It's always pulling out 1* (from the HSR, not start retard) because when we wired it the "correct" way, the car sputtered and backfired like a mother. Could you two tell me what you connected the high speed retard to? Along with anything else off the top of your head. I'm sitting here looking at my schematics and it's been over half a year so i gotta remember my writing and figure it out again since the track is opening back up Thanks

 

Sorry mine isnt connected - I'm only using the power harness and the ingnition harness at this point. The extras are coiled up together un-used.

 

Can someone tell me how to wire it all up, I have the harness. I not sure how to wire up the window switch w/ the wot switch

 

Well good and bad news...

Before boxing it up and shipping it back to Mallory for diagnosis, I decided to pull the wiring and start over with just the wires given in the kit and the box placed in the engine bay (hood open). It seems better now, but the real test will be on the road through the RPMs. Problem is I cant find ANY place to secure the box in order to close the hood. There's no room on the T/A for this thing The wires wont reach to the glove box (which Mallory suggested is a bad location anyway). Gah!

justahoe check out this diagram from one of our members
http://www.go-fast.org/z28/photos/nitrous/n2o-wire.gif

 

Alright well i rigged up the wiring with quick disconnects and ran them through the firewall on the drivers side and connected everything up. It seems to work fine...theres just a sputter at about 2500 but I think its an Opti problem being amplified. I guess I'm going to rewire it one final time with it in the glove box, and secure it so I can run it with the glove box open to allow more airflow, pass the power wiring out under the PCM to the external batt posts and the ignition wiring on the cabin side of the firewall and out on the driver's side, minimizing interference with heat, spark plug wires, and PCM signals.

Now the GENX-2 is on the way...