97formulakid

I need to know how to hook up the 685 with my nitrous works kit. I am running a FPSS and don't really know how to hook up the box to the kit. I have the box hooked to the car but not to the kit. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

nfa

You want to hook up one end of the FPSS to one side of the solenoids and the other to the mallory wire that controls the window switch (purple). It will provide a ground within the Min/Max rpm range that you specify.

The yellow wire, which controls timing retard, should be hooked up to a wire that will see 12v upon activiation of the nitrous. I spliced into the wire providing juice to the solenoid.

97formulakid

Thank you, thank you, thank you. My NX kit was wired a little different so I didn't know exactly how to do this one. Thanks again!!!!

01Z

Be aware that the "violet" RPM output wire and circuit is rated to 10 amperes only. It is highly recommended to create a separate grounding circuit using a relay.

My advice is to check with NW on an amperage rating for what you are intending to do through the Mallory Hyfire. I will bet they will also advise you to create a circuit through a relay, using the RPM switch output wire to trigger that instead of having the solenoids ground directly through the box.

nfa

i looked at my NW instruction manual, and they dont indicate that a separate circuit is required for the rpm switch. Then again, my mallory box got fried a couple months after installing it (fixed under warranty) so its worth looking into!

01Z

The companies putting the kits together can't anticipate everything that we might do with them. Unless NW mentions the integrated window switch for the Mallory, don't take that as something they have tested. Case in point is after I had some technical help from Zex, I was told they do not recommend using an aftermarket ignition with the kit I have installed. This was not mentioned anywhere in the documentation or website AFAIK. 860performance is where I was given a heads up on using a separate circuit triggered by the Mallory. I was having some very strange behaviour going through the Mallory and now the Zex NMU has failed. I'm suspicious the failure could be associated with the Mallory RPM connection. I have since isolated the circuit and placed a diode across the relay to prevent any possible current reversals. I was getting artifacts across my voltage meter when switching the nitrous arming circuit. An artifact may just be an anomaly isolated to the multimeter but the simple silicone diode will be insurance.

97formulakid

OK, so how exactly do I wire up this circuit them?? I am going to need 3 relays total, one for the kit, one for the heater and then one for the grounding circuit for the purple wire for the Mallory right???? How do I wire up that relay??

97formulakid

A wiring diagram would be appreciated!!! lol

97formulakid

Right now this is how the arming relay is wired in the NW kit.

Pin 86 - arming switch ---> switched power supply 12v
Pin 30 - +12v continuous power supply
Pin 87 - nitrous solenoids --> ground
Pin 85 - hobbs switch ---> WOT switch ---> ground

Now, the yellow wire that comes from the 685 is going to be spliced into the wire from the pin 87 and the solenoid. Is this right?? How do I wire the rest of it??

97formulakid

OK I found this

Relay 1 (arming relay) Run a ground through the fuel pressure safety switch
to the ground side of the (85) arming relay. Positive side (86) goes through
your arming switch - I took positive from the defroster activation button.
30 goes to ground, 87 goes to 30 and 86 on relay 2.

Relay 2 (WOT relay). Take the output from 87 on relay 1 to 86 and 30 on
relay 2. Your WOT switch should be + (should use ATPSS if possible) and take
that to 85. 30 goes to 12V + batt and 87 goes to 85 on relay 3.

Relay 3 (Windows switch relay). Take output from Relay 2 on 87 to 85 on
relay 3. 86 goes to grounded output from Mallory purple (window switch). 30
goes to 12V Batt +. 87 goes to nitrous solenoid + AND yellow (timing retard
input) on Mallory box.

You can not hook the ground from the window switch to the atpss for some
reason on relay 2. I couldn't get mine to work so that's why the 3rd relay.

Also by not allowing them to have + or - until arming relay is activated it
stops unnecessary relay clicking while driving from the window/WOT relays.

By having the ground on the main arming relay go through the FPSS it turns
off the entire system if no fuel pressure.


WOULD THIS BE HOW I WIRE IT UP??? Also, he talks about taking one wire from some relays to two spades on another relay, how do I do this??

01Z

The way I have done it is to energize one side of the relay coil from the arming switch and the other side of the relay coil is connected to the violet Mallory wire. Then, a negative chassis ground wire is connected to either side of the relay switch while the negative side of the solenoids are on the other side of the relay switch. I am using a simple 4 pole 30 amp relay from radio shack btw.

Now, to keep any current from jumping toward the mallory rpm output I wire a simple silicone diode across the coil side in parallel to the violet and +12volt of the relay. Anode (+) to mallory side and cathode (-) to the 12volt input.

If you don't fully understand relays and diodes here's a quick reference:
http://www.misterfixit.com/switches/relay.htm
http://www.americanmicrosemi.com/tutorials/diode.htm

97formulakid

ok, where did u put the diode?? lol, im still confused

97formulakid

I still need help, I am soo confused right now that its not even funny.

01Z

The diode is just a precaution so you don't have to do it at all. I know of no kit that comes with it either. However, should you want to do it; just attach the anode side of the diode wire to the violet wire as it comes into the relay and attach the other side of the diode (wire) to the +12volt power coming into the relay. That is what I meant by parallel wiring.

I would post a picture for you but the relay and diode are all wrapped up in electrical tape and behind a fixed panel with the rest of the electronics.