Auto, 95 Z28....................

how exactly do you hook up a dry shot (small)... i heard on a LT1 you shouldnt spray through the maf like everyother car.....so how exactly do i do it?

also how do i hook up a window switch? on the LT1 you should get one so you dont shift while spraying right???

thanks brothers

 

Correct, you don't want to spray thru the MAF on these cars. The NOS system, for example, has the nitrous nozzle that goes into your intake elbow. The extra fuel is delivered by spiking the fuel pressure. There are a few different window switch options out there, its more so a matter of just following the schematics closely to wire it up correctly. Something to maybe consider would be the Mallory 685 ignition box. It has both a timing retard and window switch function as well as having the benefit of a hotter spark. It is pretty easy to hook up as well.

 

kinda sounds like a pain to do on a lt1

 

Installing a nitrous kit is not hard at all. Especially the bigger name kits, they usually provide good documentation which makes it pretty easy for those with lesser technical skills.

 

The extra fuel is delivered by spiking the fuel pressure

how does this happen??????????????

btw here is the kit..... ill run a 80 shot of dry....
edelbrock EDL-70205

 

It is spiked through a vacuum signal, basically tricks the fuel pressure regulator into boosting the fuel pressure. I don't know if you have put any consideration into a wet kit. It basically does both the fuel and nitrous delivery thru a single nozzle. The fuel source is taken right off of the Schrader valve port on the fuel rail.

 

what would be eaiser? on a lt1 i always thought dry is risky, but easy.

 

I generally say don't bother with dry on an lt1. Wet is 1 more line, 2 more wires, and a lot safer.

Get the generic nx knockoff and put a 100 shot to it.

Avoid NOS brand solenoids if you ever plan to run a controller.

 

I have a wet kit, I don't see how the dry kit is any easier to install. Frankly, the plumbing aspect and the bottle installation is easy, on either kit. What throws some people off is the actual wiring part.

 

I've read that it's fine to spray into the MAF. Just make sure you descreen it. And don't go over a 150 shot. This was from VERY reliable people.
And make sure you can pull 3 or so degrees of timing when you spray.

 

With the LS1 platform, I have heard this as well due to their PCMs having supposed faster processing speeds. With the LT1, this isn't the case.

 

Supposedly what you are saying is because the LS1 programming is VERY in depth and can handle it. The LT1 can't give enough fuel with it normally, but the dry LT1 kits come with something that peaks the fuel pressure up so it works fine.

If they didn't fix this problem, then no company would sell dry LT1 kits.... but they do.

 

Those LT1 dry kits usually have some sort of method where the fuel pressure is spiked by "tricking" the fuel pressure regulator. The extra fuel is not delivered by the PCM.

 

That's what I'm talking about.

 

In that case, the nozzle would be placed after the MAF as well. If you think about it, if it was before the MAF, you would have both the PCM trying to compensate by adding extra fuel as well as the vacuum source going to the fuel pressure regulator causing it to dump extra fuel as well while the nitrous is activated. You would most likely have an overly rich condition as a result.