LT-4 knock module W/N20?
01-03-2003, 10:00 AM
#16
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Originally posted by '95 z-28/ '00 montepace
to pull spark, i use a Mallory HyFire VI model number 685 digital ignition. it has 2 rev limiters, a window switch, selectable timing retard, and some other features. only problem with it is that i mounted it in the glove box and i pick up a lot of false knock because it is too close to the PCM. i think if i were to put it anywhere else, i would mount it in the rear cargo area (maybe under my N2O bottle in the spare tire well).
to pull spark, i use a Mallory HyFire VI model number 685 digital ignition. it has 2 rev limiters, a window switch, selectable timing retard, and some other features. only problem with it is that i mounted it in the glove box and i pick up a lot of false knock because it is too close to the PCM. i think if i were to put it anywhere else, i would mount it in the rear cargo area (maybe under my N2O bottle in the spare tire well).
Billy
01-03-2003, 10:11 AM
#17
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Originally posted by sniffin94
you put that new motor in just so when I get there next week I wouldn't embarass you. I will anyways, I might have to sabotage her. Oh by the way my nitto dr with 10,000 miles on it is almost a full slick.
you put that new motor in just so when I get there next week I wouldn't embarass you. I will anyways, I might have to sabotage her. Oh by the way my nitto dr with 10,000 miles on it is almost a full slick.
01-03-2003, 01:12 PM
#19
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Location: lighthouse point, fl
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Oh in reference to the fried tranny talk to the guy who rebuilt yours and ask him how much to do mine. I need to get a ballpark so I know how many bills to pay off. Oh and I don't need a single wide, I am taking over your garage
01-03-2003, 05:56 PM
#20
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I'll give him a call tomarow when I get off work and let you know what he says. I'm not sure what the going rate for a T-56 is but you might want to start looking for a good used one...might be cheaper.
Billy
Billy
01-03-2003, 06:23 PM
#21
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forget cheap, I need bulletproof. Why put the same thing in and have the servos go. Oh and I am going to be ordering the 175 n20 and the 200 fuel jet. Do you and lonny want them too? Let me know and I will have them all delivered to your house
01-03-2003, 07:17 PM
#22
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Originally posted by sniffin94
forget cheap, I need bulletproof. Why put the same thing in and have the servos go. Oh and I am going to be ordering the 175 n20 and the 200 fuel jet. Do you and lonny want them too? Let me know and I will have them all delivered to your house
forget cheap, I need bulletproof. Why put the same thing in and have the servos go. Oh and I am going to be ordering the 175 n20 and the 200 fuel jet. Do you and lonny want them too? Let me know and I will have them all delivered to your house
Billy
PS I think your the only one I know that can break a T-56.
01-04-2003, 05:14 PM
#25
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Originally posted by sniffin94
cool, so lonny wants a set too? Hey did you get your A/F gauge for x-mas? What did the wife get you? Later
cool, so lonny wants a set too? Hey did you get your A/F gauge for x-mas? What did the wife get you? Later
01-04-2003, 05:19 PM
#27
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Originally posted by SDAKOVIC
a good rule of thumb is to pull out 2 degrees of timing for every 50 hp of nitrous. besides pulling timing helps
in the top end anyways. i'm running a
175 shot with MSD 6AL and MSD retard box
a good rule of thumb is to pull out 2 degrees of timing for every 50 hp of nitrous. besides pulling timing helps
in the top end anyways. i'm running a
175 shot with MSD 6AL and MSD retard box
01-04-2003, 05:22 PM
#28
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Originally posted by sniffin94
well you will need the dremel for when we put your gauges in. You have to give women the exact part # and the number, and half the time they still will screw that up.
well you will need the dremel for when we put your gauges in. You have to give women the exact part # and the number, and half the time they still will screw that up.
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