N2O Tech Discussion for the use of Nitrous Oxide

Limits of Nitrous and pump gas

Old May 4, 2008 | 08:26 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by IDAREU
Do you have a link to the equasions? What are you looking for on the bottom of the porcelin, a consistant coloration of the plug or evidence of detonation?
Color. but actually lack there of.

Basiccly you want the fuel ring at the very bottom then lean it out just a hair until the ring disapears. With timming its hard because some plugs like the autolite ar's the metal is so hard that if you se a timing mark you probably have to much. you guys should do some reading over at yellowbullit. There are some of the smartest nitrous guys in the wourld who read and post over there. they have taught me alot!
Old May 4, 2008 | 08:27 PM
  #17  
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When i won pump gas drags i used a water injection kit to help with cyl temps. it helped egt's by 100*
Old May 4, 2008 | 08:38 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by shiznityz28
When i won pump gas drags i used a water injection kit to help with cyl temps. it helped egt's by 100*

That could be helpfull to know. I'm at 12 to 1 comp so I will have to see how much I can get away with on pump gas.
Old May 4, 2008 | 08:57 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by jakesz28
That could be helpfull to know. I'm at 12 to 1 comp so I will have to see how much I can get away with on pump gas.
Whats quench at?
Old May 4, 2008 | 09:10 PM
  #20  
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.040 quench distance
Old May 5, 2008 | 10:24 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by jakesz28
.040 quench distance
ok thats where i had mine at but it will make it very difficult at a point around 300 because the tighter the qunch the more it speeds up the burn. if you really want to get serious and hit it big get it .050-.060. What heads?
Old May 5, 2008 | 10:38 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by shiznityz28
Color. but actually lack there of.

you guys should do some reading over at yellowbullit. There are some of the smartest nitrous guys in the wourld who read and post over there. they have taught me alot!
I started to read a post over there and my head began to spin. I obviously have a lot of reading to do.
Old May 5, 2008 | 10:45 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by IDAREU
I started to read a post over there and my head began to spin. I obviously have a lot of reading to do.
Me to.... There is some awsome info over there.

We just finished up our other DR car .396 LS1 iron block 30" tire, 355's, glide and a 500 shot on the DP. made 530 rwhp on the motor on a mustang dyno should go 8.7 @ 157 or so and 5.3 in the 1/8 . this was somethign we put togeather to race all the local stuff while we building our TT DR car.
Old May 5, 2008 | 04:30 PM
  #24  
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I have a LT1 with converted brodix -10 heads. Hope to make 550-580 on the motor.
Old May 5, 2008 | 06:40 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by jakesz28
I have a LT1 with converted brodix -10 heads. Hope to make 550-580 on the motor.
whats the valve angle on those? 15?
Old May 5, 2008 | 08:01 PM
  #26  
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Started out at 23*
Old May 5, 2008 | 09:46 PM
  #27  
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A better question for me is how much HP/TQ will the exhaust system handle before it stacks uo "bottle necks".

Once you start restricting heats path out of the motor detonation is not far behind.
Old May 6, 2008 | 05:28 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by TurboSS
A better question for me is how much HP/TQ will the exhaust system handle before it stacks uo "bottle necks".

Once you start restricting heats path out of the motor detonation is not far behind.
With the 2" kooks and h pipe i run 3.5 duals wit 2 edelbrock muffleres we dropped the exhaust and say 3 hp on the 740 rwhp setup( 200 shot). exhaust is king on nitrous. but id be more worried that you have enough exhaust durration and overlap to properly blow down the cyl.
Old May 6, 2008 | 05:39 AM
  #29  
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I am going to respond to the idea of running it lean later, but in the meantime I'd adivse people not to do it. Just FYI.

Rich
Old May 6, 2008 | 05:59 AM
  #30  
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I'll have 2" tubes. The exhaust side of the heads flow decent in comparison to intake. 12* split on the duration.

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