I had a NX wet kit set for a 100 shot on my car before the cam.

Whenever I'd bottle it, my IAC count would drop, and eventually it hit 0 at idle and started idling high. 550 was normal, it started idling about 800. I torqued back the throttle stop screw just to get it to idle at the right speed, but it was a rougher idle.

I tested all the vacuum lines coming from the intake manifold with a autozone vacuum tester.

PCV valve was functional, and it held a vacuum from both sides.

The Opti vent hose had a little crack in it, and I duct taped it up good, no change in IAC count.

EGR tube is blocked off in back, its a brass gasket on one layer, paper on the other, gunked with high temp RTV to make sure it doesn't leak. The EGR valve is on, but I made a paper and RTV gasket for it too when I did my cam. Just to make sure. I also put vacuum caps on all the EGR vacuum stuff, on the intake manifold and on the EGR valve itself.

Brake booster line held vacuum.

A line had broken off of the VAC check valve, I replaced that, checked the line to the vacuum canister, the vacuum canister, line between the check valve to the intake manifold, and the line to the dash controls. All held vacuum.

The line between the intake manifold and fuel press regulator held vacuum too.

I think thats all of it. After I checked all that, I couldn't figure out what was causing the leak, I sold the bottle and slapped the cam in.

Edit: When I was spraying, my nozzle was right under the intake elbow and it was looking right at the throttle body blades. I took off the IAC and TPS stuff and cleaned them out good with carb cleaner. After the cam, I had to idle up the car to about 800 for it to idle correct. I can grab a dry kit from a friend and experiment with that.

Any ideas?

Edit again: Any sugguestions on a good inline fuel pump, I'm running a 13.5 A/F ratio as is, and I don't think I could fuel anything over a 50 shot.

 

800 is the pcm programmed idle speed. changing the throttle stop screw to try and change the idle will throw the TPS voltage off and the IAC voltage off therefor giving the PCM incorrect data causing your idle to be rough. You need to measure you TPS voltage, it should be between .3 and .9 at idle. when ur tps voltage is inline check your IAc position and make sure it functioning properly

 

That was with stock programming. It was still set for the stock 550 rpm, then it started idling high. I torqued back on the throttle stop screw to get it to idle correctly again.

Then I took the bottle off, put the cam in, and then I had the pcm programmed for 800 rpm idle in gear.

Next time I look at the car, I'll flip it to TPS on the scanmaster and see what it says. Right now I think the IAC position is in the 30's at idle. I'll double check that too, fully warmed up.

 

At idle TPS at .82, and IAC reads 88 to 95, I creeps a little upward if I stay idling in one spot. Highest at one light it got to was 95, but right from a stop its at about 92.

I was talking to an old hot rodder. He said with all that torque I was generating, on the bottle hit, it could of twisted the manifold and caused the gasket to get wierd. I'm going to go around and retorque (3rd round) all those bolts, and see about slapping a 50 dry shot on it to see if the IAC still drops.