I want to run a 200 shot!! How!??
I want to run a 200 shot!! How!??
Assuming I have an almost completey stock engine, except for a few boltons(ie intake, exhaust, etc.), what all do I need to do to be able to run a 200 shot of nitrous??
don't on stock internals, 150 max. You'll need all the regular stuff, a fuel pump for sure, pull like 8 degrees of timing. Then you can juice a 200 if ya want, however, i don;t think the STOCK internal motor would like it. If i was going to spray a 200 shot, i would get forged internals.
There are some guys running 175 on stock bottom endfs,but you HAVE to have the fuel system to support it. G. Debski (im sure he will chime in) runs a big shot on a stock bottom end,but he has a KILLER fuel system.
If i can get my suspension sorted out,i will try a 175 and 200 shot in the next few weeks.
If i can get my suspension sorted out,i will try a 175 and 200 shot in the next few weeks.
I know some fellow LS1's doing it on stock internals....no probelms. On an LT1 as long as you have the fuel system to support it you should be OK as long as you have a way to pull timing and never have a hiccup(detonate or puddle). Other wise you'll be buying those forged internals soon.
In the engine it's the hypertectic pistons that don't like the added pressure. The other concerns will be can your clutch(if you have an M6) hold that power and to get traction with a 200 shot you'll have to run DR's at a min and slicks would be preferable. On a stock rear you'll have to be careful you don't break the gears. If you have a A4 the trans should hold just don't spray through the gears to often.
Need more info on your car really, miles, current mods etc. to help you. In the end I would not do it unless you have the money to rebuild the engine and you can be without the car for a while (ie 2nd car).
In the engine it's the hypertectic pistons that don't like the added pressure. The other concerns will be can your clutch(if you have an M6) hold that power and to get traction with a 200 shot you'll have to run DR's at a min and slicks would be preferable. On a stock rear you'll have to be careful you don't break the gears. If you have a A4 the trans should hold just don't spray through the gears to often.
Need more info on your car really, miles, current mods etc. to help you. In the end I would not do it unless you have the money to rebuild the engine and you can be without the car for a while (ie 2nd car).
Well, my car is a mostly stock 95 Z with 72k on it...intake, exhaust, msd ignition, new plugs/wires, new oem clutch, that's really it. I don't want/expect to be able to run a 200 shot on the stock engine...That's more of what I was asking, what exactly do I need to go about getting to be able to run that shot safely, and possibly even a 250 shot?
Originally posted by RacinLT1
There are some guys running 175 on stock bottom endfs,but you HAVE to have the fuel system to support it. G. Debski (im sure he will chime in) runs a big shot on a stock bottom end,but he has a KILLER fuel system.
If i can get my suspension sorted out,i will try a 175 and 200 shot in the next few weeks.
There are some guys running 175 on stock bottom endfs,but you HAVE to have the fuel system to support it. G. Debski (im sure he will chime in) runs a big shot on a stock bottom end,but he has a KILLER fuel system.
If i can get my suspension sorted out,i will try a 175 and 200 shot in the next few weeks.
-K
Originally posted by stockfornow
Well, my car is a mostly stock 95 Z with 72k on it...intake, exhaust, msd ignition, new plugs/wires, new oem clutch, that's really it. I don't want/expect to be able to run a 200 shot on the stock engine...That's more of what I was asking, what exactly do I need to go about getting to be able to run that shot safely, and possibly even a 250 shot?
Well, my car is a mostly stock 95 Z with 72k on it...intake, exhaust, msd ignition, new plugs/wires, new oem clutch, that's really it. I don't want/expect to be able to run a 200 shot on the stock engine...That's more of what I was asking, what exactly do I need to go about getting to be able to run that shot safely, and possibly even a 250 shot?
To go along with the engine some of the more common things to do would be:
Cam, Head porting, Rockers, timing Chain, Valve springs, the list just keeps going.
Honestly I think you're jumping the gun abit. Looks like yous till need some headers, and now you're gonna kill that poor stock clutch and rearend, let alone the fact you're not going to be getting traction w/o a set of tires and/or suspension work.....
So now you're spinning the tires every time you launch/race the car, and running slower then you did before the new engine due to lack of traction......

OK, maybe that was exagerated *some* but this is the hard truth.
Good luck!
G. Debski (im sure he will chime in) runs a big shot on a stock bottom end,but he has a KILLER fuel system.

You guys have to understand a few things. The first one is that hypereutectic pistons are harder and can take more power than forged. However, as a result of their hardness, they are brittle and react badly to detonation.
If you can avoid detonation, you can run quite a LARGE shot on them, probably only limited by the rods. The way to do this is to have a powerful, totally aftermarket fuel delivery system, from the fuel tank, to lines, pump, filter, regulator, and a good aftermarket ignition and all the safety equipment.
I installed my NX system in Nov 99, and have been running a 200 shot (dual stage) ever since then and the car is just getting faster. This is on a stock LT1 bottom and always 93 octane. I run 33deg timing on the juice.
Something else to consider, is that if you haven't done the required exhaust mods: head porting, cam and headers, you will never get what you think is possible out of the juice, since it's VERY HIGHLY dependent on exhaust capacity.
As Kurtis mentioned, without drivetrain updates, you will also destroy it in short order. There are a lot of things you need to address if you want to run such a large shot successfully without constantly rebuilding the motor and the drivetrain.
A 200 shot at 3000rpm = 350lb.ft. of INSTANT torque, so be ready........
Originally posted by George Debski
You guys have to understand a few things. The first one is that hypereutectic pistons are harder and can take more power than forged. However, as a result of their hardness, they are brittle and react badly to detonation.
If you can avoid detonation, you can run quite a LARGE shot on them, probably only limited by the rods. The way to do this is to have a powerful, totally aftermarket fuel delivery system, from the fuel tank, to lines, pump, filter, regulator, and a good aftermarket ignition and all the safety equipment.
You guys have to understand a few things. The first one is that hypereutectic pistons are harder and can take more power than forged. However, as a result of their hardness, they are brittle and react badly to detonation.
If you can avoid detonation, you can run quite a LARGE shot on them, probably only limited by the rods. The way to do this is to have a powerful, totally aftermarket fuel delivery system, from the fuel tank, to lines, pump, filter, regulator, and a good aftermarket ignition and all the safety equipment.
Not trying to take a shot at ya, but I know I don't have as big of nuts as you do George to spray the stock Rotating as much/often as you have/do.
And I've been playing this Nitrous Game for my share of time.
stockfornow,
Bottom line is unless you can afford to start breaking parts weather it be Drivetrain or Engine related, is this really worth pursuing.....? THATs the question you should ask.....
Take care,
Kurtis
Of course, you're right on this Kurtis. A lot of people think that for 500 bucks they'll have a reliable daily driver with 500+hp. Ain't gonna happen!
The major problem is that to do it right costs money. My example:
1) Ignition $690
2) Fuel delivery: $1360
3) Exhaust: $1191
4) N2O setup: $2610
5) Tranny, drivetrain, tires: $4021
This doesn't include things like cam and head porting.
Sure, I can say a 200 shot is no problem, but it took me a few years to get there. I don't want to constantly rebuild parts, so it was worth it to do it right the first time. I have been rewarded with a very durable, reliable and consistent car
Some people might think it's too much money, but all except for number 4, are things I would have had to do anyways. So instead of spending 8 grand on a stroker, I spent 2600 on the juice for the same results.
But I studied LONG and HARD before I plunged in.
The major problem is that to do it right costs money. My example:
1) Ignition $690
2) Fuel delivery: $1360
3) Exhaust: $1191
4) N2O setup: $2610
5) Tranny, drivetrain, tires: $4021
This doesn't include things like cam and head porting.
Sure, I can say a 200 shot is no problem, but it took me a few years to get there. I don't want to constantly rebuild parts, so it was worth it to do it right the first time. I have been rewarded with a very durable, reliable and consistent car

Some people might think it's too much money, but all except for number 4, are things I would have had to do anyways. So instead of spending 8 grand on a stroker, I spent 2600 on the juice for the same results.
But I studied LONG and HARD before I plunged in.
Kurtis....gee nothing like any peer pressure huh?
With the cooler weather and new torque arm/sway bar,im hoping to get it down the track a lil quicker.
I know i'll be pushing the fuel system with the bigger shots...but it IS the end of the season.....and you know.....winter is long.................
With the cooler weather and new torque arm/sway bar,im hoping to get it down the track a lil quicker.
I know i'll be pushing the fuel system with the bigger shots...but it IS the end of the season.....and you know.....winter is long.................
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