how do you wire a bottle heater ?
Depending on the bottle heater, it should have a transducer sensor that will detect the pressure and shut the heater off automatically when the desired bottle psi has been achieved. I wouldn't wire it to the rear defrost grid. I drew the power source for the relay straight from the battery but I also wired in an inline 20 amp fuse.
Wired mine to the rear defrost also. Works perfect. It's a timed circuit and it shuts itself off. I just watch my pressure gauge in my console to make sure the bottle pressure doesn't run high.
Ken R.
Ken R.
So Ray, according to your diagram, we need THREE wires that are routed to the nitrous tank, is that right? Two that hook to the pressure cutoff, and one for heater feed. The ground you attach to the chassis near the tank. This assumes that the pressure cutoff switch is placed inline with the tank. Would you do this, or would you place the cutoff switch in the engine compartment, closer to the relay and solenoids?
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I was also looking over my NOS bottle heater and it's rated at 300 watts. This means a current draw of about 22 amps when it's energized. That's as much power (or more) that my electric fan, and certainly more than the fuel pump. With this type of current draw, what would be the recommended wire size for the feed wire from the relay to the heater?
Okay, never mind. I've found my answer to question #2 . The recommended wire size to run 20 amps for eight to twelve feet, is 12 AWG stranded wire.
--drb
--
I was also looking over my NOS bottle heater and it's rated at 300 watts. This means a current draw of about 22 amps when it's energized. That's as much power (or more) that my electric fan, and certainly more than the fuel pump. With this type of current draw, what would be the recommended wire size for the feed wire from the relay to the heater?
Okay, never mind. I've found my answer to question #2 . The recommended wire size to run 20 amps for eight to twelve feet, is 12 AWG stranded wire.
--drb
Last edited by ws6transam; Apr 16, 2007 at 02:02 PM. Reason: Added wire gage recommendation.
So Ray, according to your diagram, we need THREE wires that are routed to the nitrous tank, is that right? Two that hook to the pressure cutoff, and one for heater feed. The ground you attach to the chassis near the tank. This assumes that the pressure cutoff switch is placed inline with the tank. Would you do this, or would you place the cutoff switch in the engine compartment, closer to the relay and solenoids?
The pressure switch, ideally needs to be closer to the bottle. But theoretically it could be placed anywhere inline on the main feed line but might not be as accurate. The best place is in the side of the valve.
Mine is 12-15" from the bottle....I have a short line running from the bottle to the manifolds for my gauges, switches etc. This makes it easier to get the bottle in and out.
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