unless i can trade this kit for a supercharger i'm gonna be spraying the **** outta my car next year.

the kit is a nx dual nozzle wet system, 100-300hp, with bottle heater, purge valve, and blow down tube.

so far i have my block stripped down
bought a cc ex 224/236 some time ago
impalla head gaskets
speed pro forged .03 overs for stock rods/crank
opti swap
edelbrock shorties
p/p intake
custom tb.

people keep telling me to change rods.
someone told me the 94's are gm forged pink rods...is this true?

whats rods would do me good? i'm on a serious budget. i don't want to buy top shelf stuff.

also, i was thinking about having the pistons and maybe the heads coated to keep heat minimal...is this good or might it chip off under high loads?

what kind of rings should i use?

any other suggestions?
i'm thinking about working up to spraying 200-250. i'd like to make it a dual stage system, but that requires two more solenoids.

thanks,
mike

 

rods are powdered metal,they are as strong as "pink" rods but essentially all "pink" rods are is a stock cast rod that has been shotpeened and magnafluxed.I would at least invest in a decent forged rod such as the eagle forged sir I beam rod. Make sure and remove all sharp edges on the dome of the piston to eliminate hot spots as well.

 

The GM PM rods are a forged connecting rod according to sallee-chevrolet's website.

 

You are planning on coating motor parts but using stock rods....bad move.

Rods experience the most stress of a motor.

 

ok, so are the eagle forged sir I beam rods the best rod for the money or what?? need suggestions on rods that won't kill me but will do the job.

 

If you plan on using the Impy gasket make sure the machine shop knows the thickness so they dont deck too much. Personally I would go with the Felpro and deck more.

Eagle I-beams should be fine....I used the H-beams.

 

I'm runnin Scat 4340 I beams with ARP 7/16" capscrews on my 383.... I'm also runnin a dual stage 300 shot (total)... You can pick a set of these rods up for about 300 bucks.. Seems to get the job done... How high are you gonna rev this beast???? It's RPM that kills rods... If you keep it under 6800, an I beam rod would be sufficient, and you wouldn't have to do any clearancing for them on stock stroke... You MIGHT have to clearance H-Beams though...

 

thanks, wheres a good place to pick those up from at that price? i was looking at some rods that were 500-600 a set. i wasn't sure how much of a rod i needed. for 300 i'll do it, i definitely don't want this thing to give out, i can refresh the bearings and rings yearly, that's not a biggy.

i think the rpm band on the 224/236 is around 6400, so i'll probably be shifting around 6000-6200 depending on what the dyno says.

thanks for the tip on the clearance issue.

any suggestions on rings and bearings?