What all would I have to do to a "stock" LT1 to get it to handle a 250 - 300 shot ?? 4 bolt splayed mains ? Lighter reciprocating parts ? What I want, is a relatively stock engine (maybe a LT4 hot cam, Headers, 3 1/2" cat back) that will just come alive with the juice. I just want it to be a 350 cu. in. engine though. Thanks,

Stryker

Oops, forgot to add, it will most likely be a wet dual stage setup.


[This message has been edited by STRYKER (edited September 04, 2002).]

 

You wont be able to spray that much nitrous with a stock motor. The parts that would need to be addressed, is probably the pistons and the rods, although, I think they would handle it if you knew what you were doing. The cam in those motors wont be good for that much nitrous though. If you've ever sprayed anything more then 200hp of nitrous, you know thats a lot! And it takes a little more knowledge than just sticking the jets in and pushing the button. You have to have your cam timing and cam down to allow the motor to injest that amount of nitrous. Im definately not saying it cant be done, I happen to have a .060 over 350, that currently I am spraying with 300hp, and the car runs 9 teens, breaking the converter. This is with stock type 23 degree heads. The cam is small, however, much much more then a stock type cam. In order to make that kind of power with just a 350, you are going to have to spin it. I take mine to around 8500rpms, and stock components wont handle that very well.

 

I understand that stock components won't handle that kind of pressure. What I meant by "stock" was, a 350 cubic inch LT1 engine with fairly stock heads. This way I can have the car "sound" like it is stock and make, relatively, not much more hp that a real stock engine would. I kind of figured that new rods, forged pistons, and even a crank would be in order. But what I was wondering was how far do I have to go ?? And what all will I have to do to be able to say "Aw, it's just a 350" and still support these nitrous levels? Billet Rods ?? Callies crank ?? Any idea on a custom cam ? I have heard that more "clearance" is needed etween the crank and main bearings. Any idea of how much extra "clearance" is needed ? What about O-ringing the heads/ block ?? Or are these questions better suited for a speed shop ?

BTW... The most I have ever sprayed was a 200 shot, and it was WILD !!! Also, I do have some knowlege about nitrous, just not enough to answer this question. Once again, I know that this engine will be VERY far from being truly stock, but for when I race, I want them to know that they got beat by a standard displacement 350 cu. in. engine !!! Mwuuuaahahahaha

Later,

Stryker

[This message has been edited by STRYKER (edited September 04, 2002).]

 

Ok, here it goes. I will tell you what I have and have run for the last few years. Sounds very similar to what you want. I have a stock block 350(older style block). The block is filled with block cement to the water pump holes. Stock 4 bolt main with studs. Lunati Pro Series 4340 crank, Manley Super70 Nitrous aluminum rods. J/E nitrous pistons with lowered ring lands and .043 upper ring. The cam is a custom ground Lunati 276in 284 ex at .050, with .670 lift. The heads are DART 220's fully ported by Pat Musi. Intake flow 306 and exhaust 255. I went with the aluminum rods to help keep the block intact. I was worried about the pounding of steel rods on the crank with the high doses of nitrous, beating the mains out of the block. The aluminum rods worked great. No problems with them at all. After 4 years of serious 8000rpms abuse, I retired the block due to severe cylinder wall distortment, and the main caps were walking pretty bad. No broken parts. Car was running 9teens with stock suspension and 3250lbs. Not too bad for a little ol 350. The only change Im making now is a Dart block, with cylinder walls .400 thick!!!!

 

Custom.... Thank you very much for that information. It is exactly what I was lookin for !! It is truly appreciated !

Stryker