Check the sig if you're interested in the application... here's the deal. Gonna transfer my Dry ZEX kit over along with Water Alcohol injection. BUT it's not in my current plans to build the block, just the heads.

What's the consensus on Stock block and injection? How large can I go without frying the pistons or bending a rod?

If that number is below 600whp then I guess I better build the block while I'm at it.

 

there is no signature....

EDIT...found this in your profile...

Signature
1992 300zx Twin Turbo... Rolled a bearing so I pulled the stock VG30DETT and bought an LT1, twin turbo headers, TH350 and a new welder!


I am assuming you are running a LT1 in a 300Zx...

Build the block...the stock pistons are definately the weak point, if you are looking to make north of 600hp.
For that level you will need a good rotating assembly, I would contact one of the sponsors that handle engine internals for the specifics of what you are going to need.

Victory racing, Golen Engine Services, etc.

 

Assuming it is an LT1.....

The two well-documented cases I have seen of stock LT1 PM rod failure occured at about the 600 flywheel HP level. GM only rated them at 450 HP. The stock hypereutectic pistons are not going to be happy with any detonation at all with a big shot of nitrous.

 

Well that about answers that then... Better build the block while it's out of the motor.

Sorry about the sig BUT yes, that's the project. 300zxTT pulled the VG and dropping an LT1.
My VG was making about 450 whp and rolled a bearing. Apparently that's a popular thing to happen about the 450mark.

Well, I guess I'll start researching the other areas of block building first (I guess I thought the LT1 was alot stronger per cylinder than it is... hmm)

 

It's not that they are inherently weak...but why would you risk it

I ran a stock internal LT1 with a good heads cam package and a 150shot of nitrous for several years....I was walking on the edge but made sure the tune was spot on.

But if I was going into a project with certain goals, I would make sure the shortblock would be able to handle anything I wanted to throw at it. No sense in having to pull it back out.

 

Couldn't agree more.
I will definetely be using an emulator to tune, so it won't be an 'off the shelf' tune for me.
I should probably move my thread nbow this my questions will inherantly become about Block building... BUT since the block will need to be designed for Twin Turbos (Low Compression Pistons) and need to withstand a large amount of Nitrous and WAI from time to time is there a recommended brand?

I found a 383 stroker kit for $800 but I suspect that the pistons and rods were hardly better than stock since the kit advertised "Makes 450-500hp" ehhhh I need something that can handle more toward the 800 club since I plan on running mid 600 whp on a daily tune with low psi.

 

So it sounds like your boosting and nitrous with this setup then? That being the case, you'll probably want to build the daylights out of it. You'll want a 4 bolt main too. Is the block you have a 2 or 4 bolt main? As long as you get a good crank, rods and pistons, it should hold up well. Leave plenty of gap on your rings also. Don't want to go with the piston manufacturer recommendation for just nitrous or just boost. You'll need racing application gaps. You can always hit up Victory racing engines or Golen engine service, both of which are supporting vendors on this site.

Ken R.

 

This is what they recommend:
Callies Dragonslayer 3.750" Crankshaft
Compstar 6.000" H-Beam Rods
Diamond Forged Pistons
Diamond Pro-Select Piston Rings
Clevite Main Bearings
Clevite Rod Bearings
Clevite Cam Bearings
Splayed 4 Bolt Billet Main Caps
ARP Main Studs

I feel like I kep getting contradictory statements as I read through the searches... Is a new Crank necessary for a 600whp DD (Obviously if I go 383) But if I stay in the 355 arena am I able to make 600 and still use a stock crank?

*** BTW I ask that assuming a 355 is good ONLY for 600. If it is then obviously a 383 is the only route.

 

355 vs 383 is an arguement that can go on for a long time....both will make similar peak power, but the 383 will make peak power at a lower RPM and have a broader power curve.

your parts list looks pretty good