I am in the current process of rebuilding my 93 z28. Speed pro forged pistons, custom cam from Combination Motorsports, Lloyd Elliot ported heads, stock crank rods, punched out .030 over, 1.6 RR, PCMforLess programming, 30lb injectors, 255 lph fuel pump etc, etc.

I plan on buying a 2800-3000 stall convertor, TNT wet LTI kit ( the larger one ) crane retard box for for my hi-6s, FPSS, and a window switch. Later on I will buy the bottle heater as more funds become available.

What is the highest shot I will be able to spray safely on this motor? I don't want to rebuild it and blow it again Also is my new fuel pump I plan on getting going to be enough?

 

I dont understand why people do this. If your going through all the trouble to rebuild the motor...why rebuild it with ANY stock parts!?!? Swap that crank out while you can(do 4bolt 3center mains if money permits), decent forged connecting rods and a good set of rings/bearings(FWIW king bearing are cheap....and have been running in 2 700hp LT1s I know of for over a year).

Then, you wont have to worry abou it(unless you go nuts with N2O which you shouldnt do). Run your 300shots or so and be happy.

If you want to skimp on parts...then It seems that the stock crank is good for 600hp or so. Some have gotten more, some less. Probably depends on how balanced everything is/cylinder conditions/etc Good luck. I would take the time and do it right if your going to do it at all.

 

I can't spend anymore than this on the car period. I have been saving for awhile now and this is my limit according to the wife. My car has been down for 8 months and I have to get it running. I have the pink rods and the stock crank is in excellant condition. I don't want to go as extreme with the juice as you do. Everything I am doing is going to cost me 4500 and I don't have anymore money to dump into it.

 

You can get a set of forged connecting rods off ebay for $300, I would at least do that if you plan on spraying. You will probably spend some $$$ getting the stock rods reconditioned anyway. Sell the stockers on ebay and use the $$$ to buy some aftermarket pieces. You will regret it down the road if you dont.

 

If your running N20 during this winter, your probably going to want to get the bottle warmer ASAP.

 

It will be early summer before I buy the nitrous for it. I cannot wait right now and my car has to be back together soon. Most people spray 100 on a stock motor. I was looking at spraying 150. I don't know how everybody here buys all this stuff at once for their car, I need a job where you work at. Any more money into this money pit and my family would feel the strain on the finances and that is not going to happen, period. All I am doing right now is a quick rebuild to get my transportation back running to get back and forth from work and a "rare" strip run maybe 1-2 times a year.

 

For mild applications it's just not necessary to go billet this and forged that, despite what a lot a people on here will tell you. It's great if you can afford to go all out and leave yourself some "growth" for the future... but sometimes the budget just wont allow it. 'Course there's no reason you can't build a dependable, long lasting motor with "some" of the stock parts.

Dan, IMO The stock rods with some ARP bolts should hold up fine in your application even with a healthy shot of juice. And it doesnt sound like you'll be at a point were you'll need a 4 bolt main conversion. The parts list you have looks OK by me for a budget rebuild...

 

You might want to view this thread: http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=214125

Rich Krause

 

I read that post but I'm still alittle intrigued on the subject. "If" I bought a 383 ci forged rotating assembly consisting of a Callies Crank, Callies I-beam rods, and SRP pistons instead how much difference is that in strength compared to the stock crank and pink rods? How much could you spray if I added that to my current rebuild? The only problem is if I buy that that means it will be atleast a year before I can buy the TNT kit

 

I understand completely, I had my kit in my bedroom for over a year before I had it installed. Bought pieces as I went.

 

As I posted in the other thread, the first place to "splurge" would be pistons. The stock crank is strong and the rods are decent. I'd say that the economical route would be to go for a set of nitrous pistons before upgrading the crank and rods. I don't see why you couldn't spray 250hp with that sort of setup, if everything else was right.

Rich Krause

 

Ok, I have figured out that if I don't do the vented opti swap, there will be enough money to buy the nitrous pistons. Anything else?

 

You will need a way to retard timing when on the juice, and of course some colder plugs along with the usual nitrous stuff (window switch especially).

Rich Krause

 

I have a crane HI-6S ignition box that I was going to get the retard module for it and connect it to a MSD window switch. What rpm's on and what rpms of though? Also what plugs are suggested for this big of a shot?

 

No platinum plugs, that's for sure. I would say a couple of heat ranges colder than stock. Stock plugs are a "5" heat range or a little colder. I am using the coldest plug without a retracted nose I could find (11 heat range) and have had no problems with fouling, even though there's nothing exotic about my igintion (stock wires, MSD 6 box, Accel coil). Many people use the TR6 for stock headed motors, I would suggest something colder.

"On" rpm will depend on traction, it's a matter for experimentation. As far as spraying through the shifts with an A4, I'd defer to others using that tranny. If it were mine, I might not want to try it.

Rich Krause