So I bought a digital dual window switch through Dynotune Nitrous (I later found out that N20 Outlet or Harrisspeedworks had it), and it would drop the voltage on my relay meaning it didn't work. It didn't work the first time, and it never worked.

They resolved this issue by sending me another one, which didn't work.

A) Do any of you guys run this switch?

B) I was looking at the NX window switch coupled with a TPS switch mounted to the LT1 billet bracket.

I had the all the wires hooked up, and I have switched 30 amp relays several times.

EDIT: I just remembered, I had the power side of the solenoids to the relay...that IS the correct side? Mind you, I had the correct wires hooked to the right numbers so don't think that stupid question above undermines my wiring...because if you don't use the digital window switch, but have the system armed and just ground the wire off the relay, then it fires...but I can't get the damn thing to switch to ground.

(Basically just answer A or B)

 

ttt

 

ttt

 

I bought that window switch and put it in my 94 m6
did you hook up the blue wire to your tps or a wot switch?
i had to unhook the wot from the dyno tune switch and run to the relay
straight from the wot switch for some reason the wot sensor in the box wasnt turning on my nos other than that it works great.

 

It should be wired like this.


Dave

 

Hey 1994lt1z28, was the switch's internal WOT switch just not working?? This is my second go-round with this switch (the first one having the same problem and me returning it) and my frustrations with it are about to land it in the trashcan.

Well, I know it's all hooked up right after a few phone calls...including one to the guy who makes them.

The relay "hums" AND the voltage drops from whatever the system voltage is (normally around 14.2 with the car running), to like 10 volts when the system is supposed to be activated. Supposedly, the voltage on the relay is supposed to drop to like .2 or .4

If I have to buy a WOT switch, I am going to be PISSED. lol. That's the whole reason why I bought the damn thing.

Anyways, tommorow, I will try it without the WOT switch hooked up, and then set the rpm window to like 0 rpms, unhook the N20 hose, and tap the window switch yellow wire to the ground on the relay and see if that will click the solenoids.

Any other tricks?