Here is what I am planning right now, based on what little knowledge I have from reading about N2O and it's applications.

First off, my SS is a daily driver, and safety and durability are pretty important. Mods are used for the somewhat rare street race, and drag strip use. So critique me, if you would, on the safety, practicality, and HP gains on a dry system running either a 75 or 100 shot (nothing larger). Along with the mods below, I am planning (none of this will happen until spring) Hooker long-tube headers, and 4.10's that I already have, just haven't installed.
Now for the questions: first off, with nitrous installed, is it possible to have a switch, or button, that you "hit" to engage the N2O? I know that may sound like a dumb question, but I've never even seen an N2O setup. The reason I ask that question is because this is what i'm thinking: I read about traction issues and rear-end strength when launching with N2O. My thought is that I would not launch with N2O....I have the 4.10's to get me through 1st and 2nd quickly....then, can I "hit" the N2O in 3rd? and 4th if needed? My reasoning behind this thinking is keeping my rear in one-piece, and would have limited traction issues.
Also, I would invest in Autotap to keep everything in check...is this a pretty good way of keeping an eye on the setup?


Any opinions on this issue are welcome, and thanks in advance for any advice.

 

A momentary switch is the splice of a wire away. all you need is a push on release off switch. you can splice to to ground or power. when it is not pressed no nitrous. I would recomend a throttel switch also to avoid accidental activation. Smaller jetting can be faster the big jettiing on the street. for example if you have a 75 shot and the guy next to you has a 150 shot and you can hook on the bottle in 1st and he has to wait untill second or third all else being equal you will be ahead of him. and he will be playing catch up.

 

Doesnt sound bad,except i personally dont like dry shots. ALSO,using it in just 3rd wont help the cause much,might as well use it in 2nd,3rd,4th. I understand not wanting to use it in first.
Yes you can have any kind of switch you want,but like above,use a full throttle switch to keep it safe.

 

Thanks for the info, why don't you like dry shots RacinLT1? I chose dry, at least for the time being, because it seemed like there were a few things that could go wrong with the wet system, that I wouldn't have to worry about with the dry. Such as the fuel selonoid malfunctioning, and sparying just N2O...which of course is not good. What are the cons of the dry then, i'm pretty uneducated in this subject.

 

There is no problem with the dry system. However you will need to upgrade your injectors because the stock ones won't be able to keep up once you hit the juice. Just my 2 cents.

 

I would also like to know the answer to his question about the Autotap. Is this the same thing as a scanmaster and what does it monitor?

 

Exactly how mine's is setup. I used a WOT switch, Hurst T-Command(a Hurst T-handle with a built in momentary push-button).

I launch with my 4.10's and drag radials, I just concentrate on getting a good launch for the 60 ft. Then once I have successfully shifted into 2nd and I also am at WOT, I hold the button in until I get to about 5600 rpms, I then let go of the button and shift.
If I miss a shift, I simply don't spray. I still plan to add a window switch later as an extra saftey device, so I don't activate too low or high.

(Make sure you wire the WOT throttle switch so that it only receives power if the button is also depressed).
I also have a FPSS wired in after the fuel solenoid.
I spray in 2,3,4, and sometimes 5th.

This is a reason I like this type of setup. If someone wants to race, I use the switch to my remote bottle opener, and hit the arm switch next to it.
This is for two scenario's.
If I am racing my opponent from a stop and I jump out in front and they can't reel me in then I just don't spray on them. But if they start to reel me in then I can add some spray in 2nd, or 3nd, or 4th to keep them at bay.

Or if I get a bad launch, it makes it easier to catch and pass them.

Hope this helps.

 

rpm4lalo, that is exactly the way I am thinking, thanks for the info.

Toms30th, I agree with your comment about injectors, I failed to mention that in my first post. If I end up doing this, i'll be taking all the safety options recommended for the setup. I don't plan on cutting any corners when it comes to my engine.

 

I said that too. I'll never go with anything higher than a 100 shot dry.

After a bottle or two. Tried a 150 wet shot. Guess I am not going back.

 

Main reason i dont like Dry kits is the fact i have seen more poeple greande parts than with wet kits.
I have been using Wet Kits since 94,worst that ever happened was a hiccup that blew an intake hose apart,and caught the K&N on fire. That was an ignition related issue as far as we could tell.

I have seen quite a few dry shots lean out cause the injectors failed 1 way or another.

ONLY way i would run a dry shot is if i was running aftermarket DFI. Injuneer Fred has a GREAT setup with a dry system,and that's about the only way i would use it.

 

I agree 100% with RacinLT1.

Unless you're running aftermarket DFI, don't even think about it. All the fast Impalas (11s or better) are running wet. The few ones running dry in in the 13s.

Hey Racin,

Just looking at your sig, I have almost the same mph as you, (119.28 and 95.31), but your hook is worth 4 tenths over mine