Hey N2O guys, Im new to this stuff so dont make fun. Im contemplating running nitrous on my new stroker that is being built. It is a 4340 Eagle or Scat crank, Eagle or Scat Hbeam rods, and either Probe or SRP forged pistons. I was originally planning on configuring it so the comp ratio would be 11:1 so I could still run pump gas, but I know that N20 is a form of forced induction so the comp ratio changes. If I was only planning on spraying 200 at the most, what would I have to knock the ratio down to to be safe running it? Thanks a lot fellas.

Jon

 

nitrous doesnt need lower compression. it isnt like forced induction in that aspect,matter of fact nitrous likes compression.

i'd leave it at 11:1 and just run good fuel and pull timing and have fun.

 

If you haven't gotten the pistons, then run as much Compression as you can and keep it within the limits of pump gas (assuming you wanna drive it often). 11.5-11.8:1 is normally pretty doable depending on cam selection etc.

Just like Dirk said, you really should use better fuel anyways when you do use the nitrous.

My Personal engine is a hair over 13:1, and I would have gone higher, but I already had the pistons..... Then again, I'm not worried about Pumpgas either.

Good luck!

 

wow Kurtis,you are still alive....havent seen you around.

how's the car coming along? figure i should break into the 10's then get rid of this crap stock cam etc.although i doubt i'll be able to catch you this time....lol

 

LOL Dirk, Yeah I'm still here, just been busy, lots of work to both to pay the bills and on the car, but the car has come a LONG LONG ways.

Let me know what ya think. It don't look too bad for just a lame duck LT1 eh?

http://Outlawrace.com/Misc/LT1-2.jpg

We should be completely done just in time for the season end, so I can stare at it in the garage all winter, sit in the Seat, and pretend I'm going down the track until April when it opens back up around here LOL.

If you can run the car this fall, I'd be surprised to not see you get your ten. You've come close already, and the best part of the season is just starting....

GL man!

 

What kind/size engine is that in that car man, that looks pretty bad. Wouldnt call it an LT1 though!

What would be a good safe wet shot I could throw at an all forged 383 with absolutely no problems, I dont want another blown motor.

 

Its a 396.

It is an LT1 block, notice the LTx water pump. Though thats not the first time I've heard people say they wouldn't call it an LT1 though....

W/ good forged components running a 200hp system should be no sweat. More is completely doable, so long as you stay on top of the tuneup, watch the plugs, etc. The main thing is make sure you have enough fuel.....

Good luck!

 

Ahh I see now, the picture was really small, all I saw was the non-centerbolt valvecovers and the tall as intake with the carb on it. I like whatyou did with the engine bay supports, Im trying to picture whether that would work in a fuel injected lt1 bay with rear m ounted battery and aftermarket coolant resevoir, also no abs. do you think they function pretty well, or just overkill?

Ohh, I also see you have no brake booster, I could not get anyone to reply to the post I put up about deleting that. What is involved besides getting a new master cylinder for example the wilwood high volume aluminum, and making a pushrod for it to connect to the stock pedal, I know about the proportioning valve too, but will just a master cylinder power the stock disks alright?

 

Sorry about the new post, but Im really really unknowledgable with nitrous. What all is involved with it, or if there is a nitrous tutorial or something somwhere, but you seem quite knowledgeable with it. All the fuel stuff I would need, also someone said you have to pull timing, is that something you need to do just when you are going to run the n20 hence having a laptop with programming software in it constantly?

 

Man I just typed like 5 paragraphs, and then when I hit submit, IE or CZ28.com crapped out and all is lost. I almost don't have the energy to type it all again LOL.....

Gimme abit, its lunchtime, LOL.

-K

 

That sucks, its cool though, thanks a lot.

 

the "supports" are part of his rollcage.

as far as timing,use an ignition box with a built in retard and you dont have to constantly swap programs.

you need an adaptor block to mount the manual master cylinder,bilklingsly and madman sell them. yes it is fine for the stock brakes.

I am about to change to a similar setup,converted 4 barrel intake,Billet Throttle body (he doesnt have a carb),non centerbolt heads on either a 355 or a 383. and im gonna spray the snot outta it.

 

Trick LT1 23 deg. heads! LOL!!

 

LOL, Jim ya caught me there.... Guess I won't be entering any classes w/ rules requiring production valve angle heads (ie PRO Xtreme Street). Its built for PSCA True STreet, and there is an underdog, competing against the Big Blocks...

I think Dirk Covered most of what I was going to say, I just get long winded sometimes when I do post.

On the fueling part, its usually simpler for most to run a seperate dedicated fuel system for nitrous enrichment. you can do a search in this section for more as its been gone over a few times in the past. I used to run a system like this...... http://www.outlawrace.com/Misc/DSC00221.JPG

Just let me know if ya have any other ?'s.......