I'll be as succinct as I can manage to be; so as not to bore anyone...

First; the motivation behind this post is my desire to do a feasibility study and cost analysis.


Now...
The engine in question is a high mile LT1, but in good condition.
Iron heads. 260hp cam with 111LSA. In a 4200lb car with 3.73's, auto & good quality converter with a 2800rpm rating.
I want to spray 200hp on this.
Of course there are risks, but I know what they are; and I'm OK with them.


Obviously, this would be a wet kit if I did this.

I would use a dedicated fuel system, and I'm willing to run straight Toluene as the supplemental fuel if I need to. (114 Octane)

I currently have a reprogrammed PCM and no internal engine mods at all, with just headers, non-stock air intake and MSD replacement coil for external mods. Plugs & Wires are low mile and less than 1 year old. I would not be planning on doing any further modifications to any of the stock systems at this time, unles there is an issue I don't know about.
The PCM would need a more appropriate program of course, but that goes without saying. (at least for me it does.)


The crucial part of this system is, in my mind, the electronics.

It would be my desire to have the nitrous go hot after the 1-2 shift is fully completed, start at a fairly low flow rate (50-ish HP) and ramp up to full power slowly. (slow being a relative term, obviously)
Manual shutdown, preferably with the nitrous solenoid closing slightly before the fuel solenoid. Rev limiter too.

I would also want the ignition to back off as the nitrous comes up to full power. If it's possible & advisable; I'd like to have the same box ramp up the nitrous and retard the timing, so that they can be matched as best as possible.



What I'm looking for in terms of information is hardware suggestions. Not just in terms of brand names and part numbers for the gas and fuel parts of the system, but also in terms of controlling electronics.


I should mention that I realize that a setup like this wont be particularly cheap. That doesn't mean that I want to be extravagent, but it does mean that if I do it at all; I am willing to spend the money to do it right the FIRST time.

 

This sounds like a very interesting plan my friend, and I'll try to give you a few suggestions I can think of.
1.New plugs, probably two or three heat ranges colder would be a very good idea, along with a set of good quality spiral-core plug wires.
2. I believe that an MSD Digital 7 will be able to take care of the spark, including timing retard, window switch, and of course a very hot spark.
3. If you have a Jeg's or Summit handy look in the nitrous section for nitrous controllers. I'm sure you'll be able to find something with the programming capability you need.
4. I have heard great things about the Nitrous Express wet kits, but I don't have any personal experience with them, so maybe someone else can chime in.

I believe your goals are definately possible, and as you know you have to be very safe. I have heard of people spraying a 150 wet shot fairly regularly with good success, but of course it's putting a very large strain on the engine. As long as you do it right, which it sounds like you are, I don't forsee any problems. Good luck!


Edit: Check out the "Safe nitrous level on LT-1" thread. There are a few people in there spraying 150-200 on a stoch short block without problems.

 

as far as shutting off 1 noid before the other,you will need to be very creative on that with electronics.
The new NX progressive (mastermind) has a built in timing retard,and will ramp the nitrous in,as far as starting in second,you would have to manually activate it. or you would need a seperate digiset timer and figure out how long 1st gear takes.
As far as running straight toulene,thats gonna take some tuning and a LOT of plug reading (imo the only way to truely tune it).
I prefer the NX kits,but hear TNT is also good. better quality solenoids in even the entry level kit then what nos and nitrous works offer.

You will need new plugs,colder as stated above,and an ignition box wont hurt either,but you can use a 6 series.

 

If you're going to wait till after the 1st to 2nd shift to spray, you might not need a progressive kit at all. Generally, the further from the throttle body and closer to the air filter, you mount the nozzle(s), the softer the hit. Pretty much the same deal with longer lines from the noids to the nozzle. Unless you've got horrible traction N/A, I doubt your going to have a problem spraying in second with a 200 shot. I'd try it with out the progressive setup, then if you need/want it, you can still get it. Keep in mind that if you do decide to go with a progressive system, it's recommended that you run 2 sets of solenoids in-line. 1 set that cycles, and 1 set that's on/off. Progressive setups are hard on the noids since the cycle them, so it's best to have an inline backup.

I dont believe you'd see any benifits to shutting the nitrous solenoid down early. In fact you might get a nice cloud of back smoke and a maybe a backfire or two from fattening up the motor with the fuel solenoid still hanging open.

Their are a number of mfg's that make high-fire ignition boxes that have build in or add on retard capabilities. I'm running a MSD 6A with a MSD 3 stage retard box. The MSD digital 7 is a newer/slicker setup that will handle both jobs and a few other functions though.

Regarding the age of the motor and the 200 shot - If there are exiting problems that you're unaware of (bearings, rod bolts, ect..), the 200 shot is gonna reak havoc. Plus, the stock pistons are fairly brittle and don't do as well with minor detonation as forged pistons. You might have good luck, or you might get a batch bad gas and go boom - ya never know. Basically, if you can't afford a rebuild, don't try it...

Good luck if you decide to go through with it though!!!

 

I ran a 200 shot out of the hole on my stock lt1 for a track season, never broke it. I went through a tranny and a rear end but the motor to this day is fine, leaks oil out of every seal but now she is hibernating. I used 93 octane with octane bost stock fuel system and bottle psi at 1100

 

Thanks for your input guys.

 

That's what I want to do too... except I haven't filled in as many details in as you (yet). I just know I don't want 100% of my shot to spray through the entire RPM range, that I want it to start after a certain gear, start at RPM X and end at RPM Y, etc.

Like mentioned above... NX built this Maximizer gadget... http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/Maximizer.htm

- greg


P.S. The cheapest I can find it for is $499.99... but it's from a non-sponsor site! PM for details.

 

What kindof ignition options is there with a Delteg system?