Yep, but I had the convenience of a lift in the shop at the time. It can still be done without a lift. Good safety stands and a jack that will get some clearance.

Get the instructions from Edelbrock. Did you get the Y-Pipe too?

You'll need to disconnect the steering shaft (not remove) and remove the old manifolds which are probably frozen on (spray heavily with WD-40 the night before). You may get a bolt broken in the heads if you don't spray them down well.

Also, when you put on the new header bolts, put some anti-sieze on the threads. After each heat cycle, re-torque the header bolts for about 5-6 times. You'll be fine after that.

Have a buddy under the car while your on top (or vice-versa). Get a different buddy than the one who couldn't remove the spark plugs or give him a box of Wheaties for the week before. The bolts that connect the Y-Pipe will be difficult. Do you have an impact gun? Spray those bolts too the night before.

Let me know if you need help.

 

Wild1- Thanks for offering your help..I may hit you up on it. Oh, I guess I should have said what I have...it is an LT1 in the form of a 97 m6. I'll try out that oil you mentioned and clean my TB again. I did the Seafoam and Deepcreap about a week before all this started happening, well the rough idle I had before the Seafoam which was the reason I did it.

Is that oil you mentioned an additive for the crank case?

 

Yeah, Josh at JD does charge a moderate rate (honest but not a rip off) but he DOES back his work. That is a big plus. No, you don't need to do any welding on the cat-back or headers. They are snug-fit and bolt on. Within a few weeks-months, the oxidation and deposits will block any leaks. I've done a few and not one leaked.

To remove the stock exhaust, I had to cut the pipe at the axle to get it over the hump. When you install the new cat-back, they put a splice at the hump/axle area... not one piece. So, you only need to cut once. I used a $7 electric cut off wheel and cut the pipe (making sure the sparks were away from the gas tank). It is fairly easy after that. I'd say to email me once you get the stock pipe off, but at that point, you'll find it is fairly easy to get the aftermarket cat-back back on.

Email me if you need help. Tell you what, I'll take a case a beer and a woman of the night (during the day) and it will still be cheaper than paying someone to install the pipe.

 

Carguy - Marvel Mystery Oil is for all petroleum based products. Use 4 oz per 10 gallons of fuel (in the gas... yes). Also, on non-synthetic oil, substitute 1 quart of MMO for your normal oil. It does work very well. I've noticed increased PSI in leakdown tests as well as smoother fuel system operation which would definately help any sticking injector. Go to Autozone or Kragen and grab the gallon size... works very well!

By the way, same offer for you and Mr. Bono... one case of beer and entertainment... I may even share the beer.

 

Cool, I'll try it out today.

If it doesn't work I'll through ya an email and deliver some beer and entertainment. It's great to come across people like yourself on the board that are so willing to help.

 

Anytime, I'm in Pennsylvania this weekend but I'll be back on Monday/Tuesday. There is a So Cal Camaro Club meeting / BBQ in Ontario on Monday at 2 PM. I'll try to make that. If you and your buddys are around, you're welcome to join in.

 

Shoot, I'm actually out of town till monday night. Oh well, maybe next time.

 

yepp, wild1 is the nicest guy in this board....

 

i dont have an impact gun, and i will give him some redbull so that he can grow some wings on those hands , do i really need an impact gun?? were there any special tools involved? and how long did it take you to do the swap? thanks

 

Damn! Now my "check engine" light is on!

 

Thanks TMD - I enjoy helping out.

Carguy - The check engine light shows that it is a two-trip code. The scanner should be able to pull that out. Don't clear the code. When you have a moment next weekend (you're out this weekend) I can see what the code is.

OR, you can go to Napa and they can run a scan on the car. Remember, it isn't as important to know that the part that failed, but ask yourself "why" that part failed.

Bono - I got the headers and Cat-Back from Summit Racing. They have good deals because they sell in bulk. You don't need to do any welding for either component.

You will get the most noticeable performance gain from the headers, the Cat-Back adds a little performance (but mostly sound).

I think I paid around $300 for the Edelbrock Cat-Back from Summit. The Edelbrock TES headers (which included the Y-Pipe and a ceramic coating was $450 at the time).

You really don't need an impact gun to remove the manifolds from the stock Y-Pipe. It is just easier. Just make sure you have enough clearance to turn your breaker-bar. You can use a rachet wrench if you have a warranty. Those are likely frozen on... like I said earlier... soak them with WD40 for a day or two.

Carguy - Did you use the MMO?

 

I couldn't tell you how much since I did it myself. But he will guarantee the headers won't leak if they are new. If they are used, hold a straight edge to the flange to make sure there isn't any warpage.

 

Wild1- hope I don't sound stupid....what's MMO?

 

MMO - Marvel Mystery Oil. Available at nearly all auto parts stores. http://www.foximas.com/auto/marvel-m...oil--16-oz.htm Brief description.

 

Bono - yep. If you've heard of Ed Iskenderian (Isky Cams), Josh used to be a builder for Isky R&D. The would build car and boat motors. The boat motors were tested in Long Beach then sent out to the open water for a thorough testing. He's really good with engines... he'd rather pull them than work on them in the car. But who wouldn't. This way he can really go through the block too!