now that is some funny **** ......hey only one vote per person please
P.S my vote is still for Don Lee Auto Service

 

It depends on what you want to do. I wouldn't recommend any technician to fix everything on the Camaro. I know a few trans guys, a fabricator, and a few I would take my engine to. For differentials and gears, I'd contact Steve at Diff Works in Riverside/Ontario.

I would strongly recommend Josh at JD Performance in Huntington Beach for all welding, installing, and fabrication. I don't have his number on me but his email is JDperformance73@aol.com

Also, the trans guys are located in Long Beach and in the valley.

What is it you need?

 

The Rob twins are so funny, you guys think you're just so keen on everything. Gee, how hard is it to put 2 and 2 together? And Noel, you don't used nitrous on your car huh, nice screen named there juiced impala SS. Plus it's a race motor, what kind of warranty did you want, MMS and I'm sure DON LEE don't warranty their race engines, why should AAP be any different. And of course if you did spray the engine, like you would tell Mark. And I'd much rather have my self-given nickname of Chony than girly name like Noel

 

I have not been on this board very long, but man you are a tool!! I would EXPECT a race motor to last a good number of miles in proportion to the number of race passes it has. This is the problem with a good number of shops these days is they feed you this "race part/motor/tranny" line of bull so when it blows up due to shoddy craftsmanship/poor parts, they can say well, playing with fire, its a race motor!! When a "respected" mechanic tells the ignorant this line of bull, they believe it because they don't know any better. That is likely the point of this thread, you have to find someone you trust, but you still have to know enough to tell when you are being fed some bull. Also just because a mechanic kicks you down a bitchin deal on some work, does not always mean they are a good mechanic. They have to be cutting corners somewhere, and it sounds like some corners were cut on Juiced's motor.

 

Although race motors are extreme, I've built a 383 with 4-bolt mains and forged internals. That engine has been to hell and back twice and still is driveable on the streets (barely - not really a street motor). So, when I hear of engines going south so quickly, it is possible but I feel somebody used plastiguage instead of using a micrometer.

 

ahh come on tony, not that there is any "real" warranty but a motor no matter what should last some time unless poorly-improporly assembled....i would take my motor for example to be one not to last verry long as it is pretty extreme but I have 75-80 passes and 20-30 dyno pulls and she still runs as srong as the day we put her together....im sure the guy you are talking about didnt get a 1/4th of that much useage

 

Thank you Rob. It's nice when people use common sense. My motor lasted about 6 months, ~ 6000 miles, nasty cylinder and piston scuffing (evidence that it was built in a not so clean shop), ALL main bearings has tons of copper showing and 3 broken main caps. I never used nitrous on his motor and if I did, I'd have some 12 sec timeslips. All I have is low 13's timeslips and a simple 383 in a 4400 lb. car should acheive that. Add N2O and I would have had a 12 second timeslip with ease.

There is much more to this story that I don't want to divulge just yet. Just hoping Mark is smart enough to clear this up ASAP and then we can go on with our lives.

 

I'm by no means an engine expert or anything,but isn't piston scuffing on the 350 caused by not enough back pressure?

 

What about Orange County? I need a place near by to have some diagnostics run. I have an auto x event in a couple weeks and cant make it out to Andys.

 

Car guy - what kind of diagnostics? I've got a Snap On MT2500 Scantool that will work on all LT1s. Are you getting any check engine lights?

 

Z28 Girl - Are you talking about headers, cat-back, or both? Or is it simply tracking an exhaust leak. Need more detail.

 

No check engine lights. Here is my deal in a nut... I had a rough idle and harder cold start and my engine would fall on its face off and on throughout the rpm range under full throttle and light throttle on take off in first gear. Everyone including on the f-body shops told me it was the opti. So I replaced the opti, coil, sparkplugs and water pump a few weeks ago.
Well, problem was 90% solved, but the idle was still rough and the cold start was still a little hard. Car will usually pull real strong all the way to redline now, but the wierd thing is every now and then it will stumble? I'm tired of f-ing with the car and replacing part after part. I just want to find out exactly what it is and fix it, once and for all.

 

Fly Bono - I bought my Z28 at Beach City and took it to Harbor. Cat back can be done in the driveway, headers are easier on a lift but can also be done in the driveway...

I'd contact Josh at JD Performance... I mentioned him earlier in the thread. He's got my 69 Z28 right now. Does great work and backs it. He'll tell it to you like it is. I don't have his phone on me, only at work, but his email is jdperformance73@aol.com

He's in Huntington Beach off of Gothard and Talbert.

I installed my Edelbrock TES headers and cat-back. If you need help, let me know.

 

Carguy - do you have a scanner? If you've got an LT1, I'll hook up the Snap-On scanner and read your MAF and TPS current data. Also, I'd like to see the IAC counts / steps. Also, you may have an injector locking up under throttle... In Cali, we no longer use MTBE in the fuel, now we use Alcohol / Ethanol. It tends to dry out our pintle seals on the injectors and seals in the fuel pump.

This sounds crazy but it works, go to the autoparts store and grab some Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO)http://www.foximas.com/auto/marvel-m...oil--16-oz.htm
It works very well and can help lubricate the fuel system. It has helped buddies in the past and I'm using it now.

Another thing which may help idle but wouldn't really affect the intermittant stumble is to clean the Throttle Body Blades. Grab some TB Cleaner (not carb cleaner) and spray the blades... wipe down with a paper towel that will not shred (not Kleenex). Wipe it until it's clean. Also, put a piece of the towel in the IAC to pick up any residual cleaner.

Let me know if you need help.

 

hey wild1, did you install the TES headers your self? i'm gonna install mine in less than 2 weeks.....hopefully everything will work out smoothly....