Busted wheel studs in rear w/traction control
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 301
From: canton, mi
Busted wheel studs in rear w/traction control
Does anyone know how to swap out the busted studs? There is a ring in the back behind both brake rotors that are in the way of getting the studs out. 
Has anyone ever had to deal with this before??
Has anyone ever had to deal with this before??
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,925
From: Detroit
well i know a guy that sent both of his rear tires to the shoulder of the gratiot launching at 5k in a 396 chevelle... i dont know how he fixed it but it probably had drums. This is the only other time ive ever heard of this happening, good luck.
Registered User
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 833
From: Ann Arbor, MI
I have some ARP Wheel studs for sale if you need new studs. These will never break on you.
Iroc85ss (Chris) installed my new ones. Send him an IM and ask him how much it would cost.
Good Luck,
Bill
Registered User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,747
From: Farmington, MI
I just did a wheel stud on the back. The backing plates do appear to be in the way. But, you should be able to get to it. Take the wheel, caliper, and rotor off (make sure e-brake is off). There should be a little less than an inch of space between the backing plate and the end of the axle. Bang the old studs out. I was able to use a heavier hammer to do this (mini sledge works great). To get the new ones in, there's a recessed crater on the backing plate. Rotate the axle until the hole is on top of this crater. Slide the stud in and through the hole. Then using a lug nut and a stack of about 6-8 washers, tighten down the lugnut to seat the stud. An impact wrench is very handy here. If you don't have an impact wrench, you'll have to put the trans in gear to keep the axle from turning while tightening it down with a breaker bar or something that'll give you some leverage.
Last edited by SSpdDmon; Sep 12, 2007 at 06:27 PM.
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,737
From: waterford, MI - USA
pm sent back. one last thing, the ring gear (atleast on bills LS1, but should be the same) does make it a tight squeeze getting those arp bolts in, but they will go in. a couple of them must have been a bit thicker in the rear shoulder cause I had to use a hammer to TAP them by the ring gear. if you need to, you could touch the edge of the sholder with a grinder/sander to make the circumference smaller to get by the gear for any tight one. but I do mean just barely touch the edge and make a flat spot.
oh, and I meant to say I got 3/16" front spacers on mine, not 3/8". so a 3/8" spacer in front should clear those pro stars.
and, bills 2.75" arp studs he got still will be fine in the back for you for sure IF you dont use any spacers. with a spacer in the back, you'll need the longer 3.5" studs like he did.
and dont forget to get open ended lug nuts to pass tech.
chris
oh, and I meant to say I got 3/16" front spacers on mine, not 3/8". so a 3/8" spacer in front should clear those pro stars.
and, bills 2.75" arp studs he got still will be fine in the back for you for sure IF you dont use any spacers. with a spacer in the back, you'll need the longer 3.5" studs like he did.
and dont forget to get open ended lug nuts to pass tech.
chris
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Joined: Jul 1998
Posts: 6,247
From: Charlotte,MI USA
On an LS1 TCS/ASR rear pull the TC sensor. The hole it goes into lines up with the bolt pattern so you can pass the studs thru there. And yes the studs will go past the reluctor ring, doesn't look like they will clear but they will.
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,023
From: Owosso, MI. USA
hopefully this will answer your questions.
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,737
From: waterford, MI - USA
no, this way is WAY faster and eaiser. not a hassle at all. I promise. and no mess either.
dont forget you'd have to pull the rear brakes off anyways to remove the axles. so literly all you gotta do from there is one 10 mm bolt on each side. the sensor just pops right out.
dont forget you'd have to pull the rear brakes off anyways to remove the axles. so literly all you gotta do from there is one 10 mm bolt on each side. the sensor just pops right out.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 301
From: canton, mi
Now in the second picture, my studs will hit that gear looking thing (reluctor ring). In that picture the wheel stud is already pushed past it where on mine it will hit. Are they smaller on ls1's? I'll have to post a pic probably.
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,737
From: waterford, MI - USA
hmm, maybe the LS1 is a smaller diam ring them. the stock one should prety much just fall out. esp. if its broken in half. if this is true, then you'll have to remove the axles. still not boo big of a deal. just more work. but atleast it would get some new/clean rear end fluid in there which you prolly could use anyways at this point.
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,665
From: Livonia, Mi
hmm, maybe the LS1 is a smaller diam ring them. the stock one should prety much just fall out. esp. if its broken in half. if this is true, then you'll have to remove the axles. still not boo big of a deal. just more work. but atleast it would get some new/clean rear end fluid in there which you prolly could use anyways at this point.
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Joined: Jul 1998
Posts: 6,247
From: Charlotte,MI USA
The studs (.485") are quite a bit smaller than the knurl (.560'' or so) so that after it's driven out of the knurl it will tilt in the hole and go past the reluctor.