86Iroc project car for sale/trade
08-04-2006, 08:16 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: waterford, MI - USA
Posts: 3,738
86Iroc project car for sale/trade--pics added ;)
possible trade for motorcycle or boat or full size pickup truck. I have about $5K in all this stuff.
will run consistent 12.5 or better with better intake mann. 12.2's easy with rpm airgap intake, 750 holleyDP, and 3500 10" stall. VERY driveable. daily drove this for 2 summers. 11.8's on the bottle atleast. last time I had this running was M8. it ran 8.2 n/a and 7.6 on the bottle. (remember it rained the day before and they didnt open the whole track till late afternoon.)
$2750 complete all parts exc. intake mann. and carb(and good rims/tires) $1800 w/o engine/trans
$1200 w/o fuel system/nitrous system/ engine/trans.
will not sell parts untill the chassis is gone.
---------------------------------------------now the car.
1986 IrocZ roller or with engine/trans. disassembled currently.
power windows/trunk. a/c deleted but underdash stuff is still there if you want to make it work again. p/s deleted but have all that stuff to go back on if you want.
red exterior two tone grey interior.
4gen seats (perfect shape NO wear) that match very well.
3:42 posi rear out of my 95Z before I put the 383 eng. in it. so the rear was babied about 68Kmiles. the rear axle I had in the car when I was driving it was swapped into my 95 after I built that car and dismantled the Iroc. changed fluid and all that regularly. decent rear disc brakes off 4 gen. calipers already clearanced for any rims you want. I had 15" drag lites on this car before.
has bolt in dshaft loop and weld in/pass-through subframe conn.s.
deleted all emmision crap.
clearanced the rear inner qrtrs and rolled the qrtr panel lips already.
the car is somewhat taken apart. eng/trans out and started taking off the front fenders and fascia. I was goin to get it painted next but no time/money now. that was before I built up my 95Z. the rims on it now are just for moving around. I can include them with the car, but it'll cost you an extra $100. rusty cragar S/S's. I can scrounge up some other rims/tires to keep it movable if you would rather. (Im sure you would since these rims arent the right backspacing for the 4gen rear axle).
VERY solid car, but needs a paint job pretty bad. there is NO rust on the main body thats visible, only small pin holes basically in some spots in the floor, one 2" hole under the carpet on the inner rocker panel, and the doors under the bottom on the inside only. THATs IT. very easy to fix, no need for replacement panels in the floor, just a couple small patchs and finish welding in the chassis enginering pass-through frame connectors Ive already put in.
the pass. front fender has a fracture/split in it. (its fairly common) I already have an excellent cond. replacement.
I have two new(used) doors cause there is some rust on the bottom of the doors on the underside by the rubber door seal. only on the inside not visible from the outside. the replacement doors are exc. cond. one small ding I believe is the extent of problems when those doors. the only other part that is worth mentioning is the roof behind the ttops. There is some filler there thats needs some attention.
but there isnt any rust on the qrtr's/door jambs at all or on the rad. core support or strut towers.
Now, so much for all the boring stuff. lets get to the good stuff. I can sell it with or w/o any or all of these things.
I have replaced the whole interior from a donor car. its now the two tone light/dark grey interior. it has perfect 4 gen grey cloth seats. about the only prob.s with the interior is the black door upper plates are cracked where the dash meets the doorpanels. everything else is in exc. shape. the seat belts may be faded a little if I remember right and the headliner isnt quite perfect. but not bad looking. I put in a b&m console shifter that was made for the car. there is a fiberglass colw ind. hood on it (daytona style), however I think Id replace it before painting the car cause it doesnt fit perfectly. depends on what your plans are for the car. if its a street/show/race car, def. replace it. if its mostly drag car, its great. stock hinges/struts, pins in front. stock hood (perfect shape but will need new louvers and paint, ofcourse.
batt. is in the rear spare tire area, as well as a nitrous bottle mount. both totally hidden behind the rear qrtr panel in place of the spare tire. theres a batt. disconnect switch on the back taillight. very nice 00 ga. wire for the batt. ground and power side to the front of the car. I have rewired the stock eng. harness so there is only two wires goin to the starter. the purple starter wire and the thick batt. cable. there is now two maxi fuses at the front of the car instead of those damn fusible links that are imposs. to get to by the starter.
I have replaced the a/c box with an a/c delete heater box already so there's lots of eng. room and it looks very clean.
I have a rad. and 4 gen fans wired into a automatic temp control box that kept my 355 at whatever temp I wanted to, literally. if I just kept the fans on all the time, it would stay at about 140deg., not good. so this box turns the fans on/off to keep in a temp range you can set.
I replaced the steering box with a man. s10 steering box. saved about 18 lbs off the front and no need for the power steering pump to rob eng. power and clutter the eng. up. simple. I can also include the p/s pump, lines, and gear. good working oder when taken off the car.
Ive installed a shiftlight and manual fan switch to override the controller for cooling down in the pits.
replaced the motor mounts with eurothane mounts.
replaced the fuel feed line goin from the stock pump to feed the regulator (high psi pump goin into a mallory return style regulator with a low press. spring in it for 8psi +/- 4psi with this spring. or replace the spring and install a high press. spring for fuel inj. engine.). that pump I have for daily driving/cruising. there is also a -8 line in the rear of the tank feeding -8 braided lines to a mallory 140 fuel pump/filter all the way to the regulator that I have on when I used the nitrous system. seperate switch for that wired into the master on/off nitrous switch.
the car has a NOS powershot on it now (125 shot). fuel and nitrous gauges/lines included and nitrous purge setup. that can go with the car or come off depending on what you want and how much money were talking about. as well as the -8 braided fuel system. I have a stock tank to swap in there if you dont want that fuel system.
I rebuilt the front brake system and put on new brake lines/hoses already.
MSD 6al, billet distributer, MSD coil.
for the engine
its a 355 4bolt block that could use freshening. its still assembled ready to go except you'll need an intake and carb. the bearings are starting to wear out (the oil press. dropped after warming up. other then that its perfect). it has stock crank/rods and forged flat top pistons. if you were just goin to cruise this, just put in new bearings and your ready to go. if youre goin to race more then a few times a year, Id get new rods and balance the assembly. solid comp cam 236/242 .510 lift. alum. trick flow twisted wedge G1 heads. hedman longtube headers. true duals exh. with bullet mufflers and Hpipe. loud but fit good and good ground clearance. swap out the bullets for some turbo style mufflers and it can be very quiet actually. that is what was on the car most of its life with this engine. hardended pushrods. LT1 starter. b&m flexplate. alum. waterpump. oil scraper in pan. felpro one piece oil pan seal.
trans is a 86 700r4. the one thats in my 95 right now can go with this car. it works VERY good, but does not technically have a shift kit in it. the only prob. with it is sometimes when racing (in my 95Z 383 LT1) it will shift out of 2 and go into 3 before you tell it to. a shift kit will correct this. most times it will stay in 2 till you shift it. (I manually shift it when racing). drives PERFECT other then that when racing. shifts firm/clean fluid. trans cooler and lines will be included as well. conv. is a warmed over stocker.
call my cell or email me if interested. can send the few pics I have. will get more after I get the car back home and clean it up.
chris
313-655-2983
[URL=http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/kar101701/c93671fc.jpg]
[/URL
will run consistent 12.5 or better with better intake mann. 12.2's easy with rpm airgap intake, 750 holleyDP, and 3500 10" stall. VERY driveable. daily drove this for 2 summers. 11.8's on the bottle atleast. last time I had this running was M8. it ran 8.2 n/a and 7.6 on the bottle. (remember it rained the day before and they didnt open the whole track till late afternoon.)
$2750 complete all parts exc. intake mann. and carb(and good rims/tires) $1800 w/o engine/trans
$1200 w/o fuel system/nitrous system/ engine/trans.
will not sell parts untill the chassis is gone.
---------------------------------------------now the car.
1986 IrocZ roller or with engine/trans. disassembled currently.
power windows/trunk. a/c deleted but underdash stuff is still there if you want to make it work again. p/s deleted but have all that stuff to go back on if you want.
red exterior two tone grey interior.
4gen seats (perfect shape NO wear) that match very well.
3:42 posi rear out of my 95Z before I put the 383 eng. in it. so the rear was babied about 68Kmiles. the rear axle I had in the car when I was driving it was swapped into my 95 after I built that car and dismantled the Iroc. changed fluid and all that regularly. decent rear disc brakes off 4 gen. calipers already clearanced for any rims you want. I had 15" drag lites on this car before.
has bolt in dshaft loop and weld in/pass-through subframe conn.s.
deleted all emmision crap.
clearanced the rear inner qrtrs and rolled the qrtr panel lips already.
the car is somewhat taken apart. eng/trans out and started taking off the front fenders and fascia. I was goin to get it painted next but no time/money now. that was before I built up my 95Z. the rims on it now are just for moving around. I can include them with the car, but it'll cost you an extra $100. rusty cragar S/S's. I can scrounge up some other rims/tires to keep it movable if you would rather. (Im sure you would since these rims arent the right backspacing for the 4gen rear axle).
VERY solid car, but needs a paint job pretty bad. there is NO rust on the main body thats visible, only small pin holes basically in some spots in the floor, one 2" hole under the carpet on the inner rocker panel, and the doors under the bottom on the inside only. THATs IT. very easy to fix, no need for replacement panels in the floor, just a couple small patchs and finish welding in the chassis enginering pass-through frame connectors Ive already put in.
the pass. front fender has a fracture/split in it. (its fairly common) I already have an excellent cond. replacement.
I have two new(used) doors cause there is some rust on the bottom of the doors on the underside by the rubber door seal. only on the inside not visible from the outside. the replacement doors are exc. cond. one small ding I believe is the extent of problems when those doors. the only other part that is worth mentioning is the roof behind the ttops. There is some filler there thats needs some attention.
but there isnt any rust on the qrtr's/door jambs at all or on the rad. core support or strut towers.
Now, so much for all the boring stuff. lets get to the good stuff. I can sell it with or w/o any or all of these things.
I have replaced the whole interior from a donor car. its now the two tone light/dark grey interior. it has perfect 4 gen grey cloth seats. about the only prob.s with the interior is the black door upper plates are cracked where the dash meets the doorpanels. everything else is in exc. shape. the seat belts may be faded a little if I remember right and the headliner isnt quite perfect. but not bad looking. I put in a b&m console shifter that was made for the car. there is a fiberglass colw ind. hood on it (daytona style), however I think Id replace it before painting the car cause it doesnt fit perfectly. depends on what your plans are for the car. if its a street/show/race car, def. replace it. if its mostly drag car, its great. stock hinges/struts, pins in front. stock hood (perfect shape but will need new louvers and paint, ofcourse.
batt. is in the rear spare tire area, as well as a nitrous bottle mount. both totally hidden behind the rear qrtr panel in place of the spare tire. theres a batt. disconnect switch on the back taillight. very nice 00 ga. wire for the batt. ground and power side to the front of the car. I have rewired the stock eng. harness so there is only two wires goin to the starter. the purple starter wire and the thick batt. cable. there is now two maxi fuses at the front of the car instead of those damn fusible links that are imposs. to get to by the starter.
I have replaced the a/c box with an a/c delete heater box already so there's lots of eng. room and it looks very clean.
I have a rad. and 4 gen fans wired into a automatic temp control box that kept my 355 at whatever temp I wanted to, literally. if I just kept the fans on all the time, it would stay at about 140deg., not good. so this box turns the fans on/off to keep in a temp range you can set.
I replaced the steering box with a man. s10 steering box. saved about 18 lbs off the front and no need for the power steering pump to rob eng. power and clutter the eng. up. simple. I can also include the p/s pump, lines, and gear. good working oder when taken off the car.
Ive installed a shiftlight and manual fan switch to override the controller for cooling down in the pits.
replaced the motor mounts with eurothane mounts.
replaced the fuel feed line goin from the stock pump to feed the regulator (high psi pump goin into a mallory return style regulator with a low press. spring in it for 8psi +/- 4psi with this spring. or replace the spring and install a high press. spring for fuel inj. engine.). that pump I have for daily driving/cruising. there is also a -8 line in the rear of the tank feeding -8 braided lines to a mallory 140 fuel pump/filter all the way to the regulator that I have on when I used the nitrous system. seperate switch for that wired into the master on/off nitrous switch.
the car has a NOS powershot on it now (125 shot). fuel and nitrous gauges/lines included and nitrous purge setup. that can go with the car or come off depending on what you want and how much money were talking about. as well as the -8 braided fuel system. I have a stock tank to swap in there if you dont want that fuel system.
I rebuilt the front brake system and put on new brake lines/hoses already.
MSD 6al, billet distributer, MSD coil.
for the engine
its a 355 4bolt block that could use freshening. its still assembled ready to go except you'll need an intake and carb. the bearings are starting to wear out (the oil press. dropped after warming up. other then that its perfect). it has stock crank/rods and forged flat top pistons. if you were just goin to cruise this, just put in new bearings and your ready to go. if youre goin to race more then a few times a year, Id get new rods and balance the assembly. solid comp cam 236/242 .510 lift. alum. trick flow twisted wedge G1 heads. hedman longtube headers. true duals exh. with bullet mufflers and Hpipe. loud but fit good and good ground clearance. swap out the bullets for some turbo style mufflers and it can be very quiet actually. that is what was on the car most of its life with this engine. hardended pushrods. LT1 starter. b&m flexplate. alum. waterpump. oil scraper in pan. felpro one piece oil pan seal.
trans is a 86 700r4. the one thats in my 95 right now can go with this car. it works VERY good, but does not technically have a shift kit in it. the only prob. with it is sometimes when racing (in my 95Z 383 LT1) it will shift out of 2 and go into 3 before you tell it to. a shift kit will correct this. most times it will stay in 2 till you shift it. (I manually shift it when racing). drives PERFECT other then that when racing. shifts firm/clean fluid. trans cooler and lines will be included as well. conv. is a warmed over stocker.
call my cell or email me if interested. can send the few pics I have. will get more after I get the car back home and clean it up.
chris
313-655-2983
[URL=http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/kar101701/c93671fc.jpg]
[/URL
Last edited by IrocSS85; 08-26-2006 at 06:54 AM. Reason: added pictures
08-20-2006, 09:57 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: waterford, MI - USA
Posts: 3,738
Re: 86Iroc project car for sale/trade
ok, here's the only pics I have. prolly got some film/developed pics that would be better somwhere. the far away pics of the car at the track were at M7 and M8 I believe. the other pics of the car are just before I trailered it out to dundee where its sat for the last 2 years in a garage. if I can find any good photo's I'll scan them in and add them.
also, those pics on the trailer are w/o an eng/trans. you can see how the car sits with the eng./trans in it in the pics of it at the drag strip. it has 6cyl. front coils that I cut down (maybe a little too far). once in a while the tire will rub the plastic inner splash panel while driving. only way to tell is the rub marks on the panel. it does sit pretty low in the front.
also, those pics on the trailer are w/o an eng/trans. you can see how the car sits with the eng./trans in it in the pics of it at the drag strip. it has 6cyl. front coils that I cut down (maybe a little too far). once in a while the tire will rub the plastic inner splash panel while driving. only way to tell is the rub marks on the panel. it does sit pretty low in the front.
Last edited by IrocSS85; 08-20-2006 at 10:00 PM.
08-20-2006, 10:48 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: waterford, MI - USA
Posts: 3,738
Re: 86Iroc project car for sale/trade
pretty positive I do still have it. should be out there with the car. its in perfect shape exc. the paint on it match's the rest of the car. the 355 fit under the stock hood but I had to use an edelbrock pro flow air filter. the flat triangle shaped one.
08-20-2006, 11:21 PM
#8
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Livonia, Mi
Posts: 1,665
Re: 86Iroc project car for sale/trade
Could I come check it out? I'm not really interested in the powertrain, the fuel system, or the N20 setup, but if the body is clean (I don't care about the paint either) consider me interested. I'm not a huge fan of that hood, I love IROC hoods though. I know they're heavier, but I dunno, I like em! I've wanted to build one of these for a long time.
08-21-2006, 06:18 AM
#9
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: waterford, MI - USA
Posts: 3,738
Re: 86Iroc project car for sale/trade
cool man, we'll have to find at point where we can both take a drive down to dundee, or I can prolly pick it up this weekend and bring it back up. I can take out that fuel tank and give you a stock one.
the body is very clean except for the paint.
the body is very clean except for the paint.
09-10-2006, 12:57 AM
#12
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: waterford, MI - USA
Posts: 3,738
Re: 86Iroc project car for sale/trade
Originally Posted by ninety4camaro
i swear ive either seen your car or one like it sitting just off of w 8mile between southfield fwy and greenfield. maybe it wasnt your car but it sure as hell looked like it.
09-11-2006, 02:17 PM
#13
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Livonia, Mi
Posts: 1,665
Re: 86Iroc project car for sale/trade
Looks like I'm going to have to pass... I was just ambushed with a suprise month long business trip / possible transfer to Denver. I'm in Denver now, not too sure when I will be back.
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