East Coast Supercharging Customers
I just got my car back from ECS...i had them do a full 383 stroker rebuild, fully ported heads etc....The results are a bit disappointing to say the least. Well here is the post with more details
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...5&pagenumber=1
But since someone on this board recommended them...I'd like to get some input from ppl who had work done by them or heard good or bad things about them. From what i heard before the build...they are good and reliable. Don't get me wrong, the guys that work there seem like real good guys and are nice and all...but I don't think i got my money's worth...please help out if you can. Thanx
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...5&pagenumber=1
But since someone on this board recommended them...I'd like to get some input from ppl who had work done by them or heard good or bad things about them. From what i heard before the build...they are good and reliable. Don't get me wrong, the guys that work there seem like real good guys and are nice and all...but I don't think i got my money's worth...please help out if you can. Thanx
There isn't enough detail to know if you "got your money's worth". For one thing, is it an M6 or an A4. If it's an A4, what converter? That can make a huge difference in dyno numbers. Assuming there are no problems (improper tune, faulty parts) the lack of power is most likely in the heads. Who ported them and what do they flow? As others mentioned, there sould be tuning issues (like a ton of knock retard).
That said, most shops don't guarantee a certain hp, especially if you picked the parts. Some shops will make a guarantee, but that is when they determine the whole package. You don't describe how the parts were selected and what kind of dialogue took place between you and the shop. Under most circumsances all you can hold the shop responsible for is correctly installing the parts, not the final result. But I do agree, it should be making more hp unless you are running an automatic with a race converter.
The shop I am associated with often gets cars like your to "fix". And I'll bet we have some customers take ours to other shops. Sometimes you find a problem with the work that was done. But at least as often, you don't, and on talking to the shop that originally did the work it's not uncommon to find that the owner insisted on something screwy that the shop didn't recommend. The problem often lies there.
I will also mention that we have seen major screwups. Completely futzed up installs. Inferior parts rather than the good ones that the customer paid for. Crappy machine work. "Ported" heads that weren't, etc. It's very hard to tell what your situation without tearing into the car. So, asking if others who dealt with the same shop is not a bad place to start. If a lot of them are dissatisfied, there may well be a problem with the shop. The thing is, what do you do now? I'd take the car somewhere else for a "second opinion".
Rich Krause
That said, most shops don't guarantee a certain hp, especially if you picked the parts. Some shops will make a guarantee, but that is when they determine the whole package. You don't describe how the parts were selected and what kind of dialogue took place between you and the shop. Under most circumsances all you can hold the shop responsible for is correctly installing the parts, not the final result. But I do agree, it should be making more hp unless you are running an automatic with a race converter.
The shop I am associated with often gets cars like your to "fix". And I'll bet we have some customers take ours to other shops. Sometimes you find a problem with the work that was done. But at least as often, you don't, and on talking to the shop that originally did the work it's not uncommon to find that the owner insisted on something screwy that the shop didn't recommend. The problem often lies there.
I will also mention that we have seen major screwups. Completely futzed up installs. Inferior parts rather than the good ones that the customer paid for. Crappy machine work. "Ported" heads that weren't, etc. It's very hard to tell what your situation without tearing into the car. So, asking if others who dealt with the same shop is not a bad place to start. If a lot of them are dissatisfied, there may well be a problem with the shop. The thing is, what do you do now? I'd take the car somewhere else for a "second opinion".
Rich Krause
Last edited by rskrause; Apr 9, 2004 at 07:13 AM.
I read thru some of the other post and my opinion is that you problem lies in the cam selection and your heads. A port and polish job means alot of different things to different shops. It doesnt sound like you got a flow numbers or hard data about teh head and what was done to them. But lets assume they were done right (for your setup). That cam is not a cc306. it looks like a cc305 ground on a 112lsa. I have a cc305 in my 350. IMO, that cam choice is where most of your power lies, in a 383 a 220/230 cam will be very mild. As everyone else stated you might just be missing 5 here and 10 there, but matched with the cam your seeing 100 hp loss from what you were shooting for.
Originally posted by Projectz28
I read thru some of the other post and my opinion is that you problem lies in the cam selection and your heads. A port and polish job means alot of different things to different shops. It doesnt sound like you got a flow numbers or hard data about teh head and what was done to them. But lets assume they were done right (for your setup). That cam is not a cc306. it looks like a cc305 ground on a 112lsa. I have a cc305 in my 350. IMO, that cam choice is where most of your power lies, in a 383 a 220/230 cam will be very mild. As everyone else stated you might just be missing 5 here and 10 there, but matched with the cam your seeing 100 hp loss from what you were shooting for.
I read thru some of the other post and my opinion is that you problem lies in the cam selection and your heads. A port and polish job means alot of different things to different shops. It doesnt sound like you got a flow numbers or hard data about teh head and what was done to them. But lets assume they were done right (for your setup). That cam is not a cc306. it looks like a cc305 ground on a 112lsa. I have a cc305 in my 350. IMO, that cam choice is where most of your power lies, in a 383 a 220/230 cam will be very mild. As everyone else stated you might just be missing 5 here and 10 there, but matched with the cam your seeing 100 hp loss from what you were shooting for.
2nd That is a mild cam.
3rd Knowing Chris, He wanted a mild tune in there until the new motor was broken in and would have asked you to come back, is that true and you forgot to mention that to us?
In the other thread, I did mention multiple times that they told me to go back after the motor breaks in for an oil change etc. I'm just glad that some ppl who have actually had experience with them chimmed in. I don't doubt that they do great work...but I just wanted to know from other satisfied customers as well. Especially those who have known them longer. I became a little concerned about the initial HP & TQ ratings and the fact that they told me the heads have been ported as far as they would go (without actual flow numbers to show me) and made it sound like achieving close to 400rwhp would make the car unstreetable (needing fuel additives...etc) I don't actually plan on changing anything until after the engine has broken in and after i've taken it back for an oil change and tune. I expect the numbers to rise a little. THanx for your feed back...keep it coming.
Im just curious about this but what were your original goals and are you sure they were on the same page as you when you talked about the motor. I mean I am not saying these guys are idots or not saying they know what they are doing. But plain and simple if you asked for ~400RWHP out of a 383, thats what you should have gotten. Now if you got 395 out of it I dont think I would be complaining. But it sounds like the engine they built for you fell short of your goals by well over 50RWHP.... thats a big number.... but dyno's dont always tell the whole story. Actual track times and mph numbers may tell a different story. Look at my car for example... it sure isnt a dyno queen, 330 RWHP is nothing to write home about. But the car will lay down 11's all day long at a race weight of 3600lbs. See what I mean?
Have you expressed your concerns with the shop and what did they say about it?
Im not saying that the cam selection is wrong, I'm just saying it might be on the conservative side for a 383 with the goals you have expressed here. I've read more than half of teh toher thread and it was hard to tell what your original intents were witht eh motor. I assume "streetable" ment an emmisions friendly 383... that was probably in their heads while they built the motor.
Have you expressed your concerns with the shop and what did they say about it?
Im not saying that the cam selection is wrong, I'm just saying it might be on the conservative side for a 383 with the goals you have expressed here. I've read more than half of teh toher thread and it was hard to tell what your original intents were witht eh motor. I assume "streetable" ment an emmisions friendly 383... that was probably in their heads while they built the motor.
Stop benchracing and put in on the track. Sounds like you got a stout street car. I would guess that you have a 305 cam. My dyno numbers aren't great. My peak HP with the Joe O cam is "only" 386 at the rear wheels. However with a very mild tune and short shifting it pushes my 3655 lb butt down the track mid 11's all day long. My car is bracket raced (a ton) and my builder took that into consideration. Did you discuss what you expected from the car and you plans. Streetable, emissions, dependable, etc. Peak HP numbers don't tell the full story. As others have stated the stroker only gives 20-30 hp. The real power is in the heads and cam. The 383 really calms down a cam. Even a 306 is pretty mild. Anyway the only place to really find out how the car runs is at the track.
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