I dont think the fuel pump would engage if the ignition switch were bad. I still say try my idea

 

I think it does actually because as soon as you turn the key the pump comes on. If when he turns on his key and it gives power to the gauges and stuff then i think the pump would come on to. I still say ignition switch. They take about 1hr to replace and cost 10 bucks.

 

Quit fooling around and put a jumper cable from the battery to the starter straight. See if it cranks. If not have the battery load tested. If that's good, check the grounds at the engine and frame. If it still doesn't crank, the starter went south. If it cranks with the jumper but not other wise, you have a switch or wiring issue. But at least you will eliminate the battery, starter and grounds.

Dave

 

Coded key/ignition swith maybe??

 

OK, I used a volt meter on the "exciter" wire when the ignition was in the crank position. NO volts! Just to be sure I did the OLE put a screwdriver between the posts trick to the starter. She fired right up! So Im pretty much sure its the ignition. How do I trouble shoot it? I know that the "chip" in our keys is a resistor but how many OHMs should it be?
Thanks Again for all of your help
Red

 

Ok scratch the whole key thing its not that my ohms readings are right on.
Red

 

Ok I tested the yellow wire coming out of the colum. It had No volts when in the crank position. I tested it before the ignition switch so the only other thing it could be is the cylinder, right?
Red

 

I might be wrong but i believe it has to be the ignition switch as the cylinder is just for the actual lock part.

 

The Key & Tumbler is most likely your problym with the coded keys there are 2 wires that come out of the ignition cylinder that run down the colum to right around the computer hook up. Those two wires are famouse for breaking. If one of those wires is broke you will NOT have power to the little wire at the starter. You will have to take the Key and Tumbler in to the dealership and let them get the vats code off your key. Its really pretty easy to fix biggest thin i can caution you about is the air bags be carefull when working in the colum always un hook the battery for 10 minutes before you even start to pull the steering wheel. Good Luck too you

 

Are there any how to's online any where?
Red

 

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html

look for the word VATS using edit-find on this page in internet explorer. 3 references that may be very helpful to you

 

Should I just bypass the VATS with a resistor? Or just buy a whole new key cylinder? I know that just bypassing it would be easier but how effective would it be?
Red

 

Buy a vats bypass resistor from Ecklers Corvette Parts. Works like a charm and costs alot less than an new cylinder and keys.

 

i personally would program it out 1 click with Tuner

 

If you had a VATS issue the security light would be on steady or flashing. You never mentioned it. If you wish to bypass it, measure the resistance of the chip in your ignition key and purchase the closest value at Radio-Shack. Disconnect the orange wrapped wire harness under the column. Put the resistor in the connector side going to the PCM. Tape it up and try it. Be sure to disconnect the plug on the orange harness and be sure to put the resistor in the correct connector.