Z falling on its face:(
#1
Z falling on its face:(
Ok started a few weeks ago. from idle to about 2k rpm the car bogs and has no power at all, then as soon as i get past 2krpm, smokes the tires, plenty of power. Oh doesnt start to happen until i get to operating temp, which is about 180 for my car.
o2's bosch about 6 months old
opti about 1 year old
plugs and wires about 3 months old
one thing i did find was that the vaccum line from the intake to the fuel pressure regulator (stock one) is missing, could this be a major problem or what?
Thanks guys!!
o2's bosch about 6 months old
opti about 1 year old
plugs and wires about 3 months old
one thing i did find was that the vaccum line from the intake to the fuel pressure regulator (stock one) is missing, could this be a major problem or what?
Thanks guys!!
#3
A missing vacume line to your Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) from your intake manifold will seriously effect your car. It is for starters a vacume leak and it allows unregulated air into the engine. In addition the FPR is set up to increase fuel pressure proportional to open throttle conditions. When intake manifold pressure drops fuel pressure increases. Without the vacume line connected the FPR is always at max pressure and you don't get a variable fuel pressure effect.
#4
Not sure really how or when this happened but the line is missing but where it connects to the intake manifold someone stuffed it full of rtv sealent. i just picked the sealent out and replaced the line. just drove the car around for ten minutes or so, car drove really rough at first, bad idle etc, as i drove the car seemed to start running better does the cpu have to relearn the mix due to the line being replaced?
Thanks for the help guys
Thanks for the help guys
#5
A vacuum leak would occur regardless of whether the car was warm or not.... your problem suggests it is only doing it when the car is in close loop, thus alluding to a sensor or something of that nature.
Here is a test to make sure. After the car is warmed up and gone into closed loop turn it off. After waiting a little while (30 seconds maybe), start it up again.... the car will stay in open loop for about 3 minutes then switch back to closed.
If the problem persists even when started up after it is warm but before it goes back into closed loop (ie. 3minutes or less) then it may be a physical problem with the vacuum leak... if not, I suggest you look at something else that "turns on" after the car has gone into closed loop... such as the o2 sensor you replaced.
Here is a test to make sure. After the car is warmed up and gone into closed loop turn it off. After waiting a little while (30 seconds maybe), start it up again.... the car will stay in open loop for about 3 minutes then switch back to closed.
If the problem persists even when started up after it is warm but before it goes back into closed loop (ie. 3minutes or less) then it may be a physical problem with the vacuum leak... if not, I suggest you look at something else that "turns on" after the car has gone into closed loop... such as the o2 sensor you replaced.
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