LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

young mechanic, need help with Z

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Old May 6, 2004 | 03:03 PM
  #1  
Chadro2002's Avatar
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Question young mechanic, need help with Z

About a week ago I noticed my 1994 Z-28 started puffing more white smoke then the pothead down the street. Mainly when I pull up to a stop light after the engine warms up. So I discuss the problem with dad who hopes its not a rebuild coming on. Two days later I start my car and begin my way to school and go about 5 blocks and notice the temp. gage is up to 260 degrees and of course is scares the $h!t out of me so i go back to the house. Turns out that the engine coolent isn't circulating like it should so I'm guessing its the water pump. So before I attempt to rip out this water pump is there any advice anyone can give me on how I go about this repair. I've changed the water pump on my V6 camaro, although I know it will be a little different, but it should be similar, right? Any advice on the process of changing the stock water pump and/or the white smoke I'm getting light headed over would be deeply ppreciated. Thanks.
Old May 6, 2004 | 03:14 PM
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Red96Lt1's Avatar
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This sounds obvious, but have you checked your coolent level. To me it sounds like you have a head gasket blown or cracked heads, and that your coolent is going out the tail pipe.
Old May 6, 2004 | 03:16 PM
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sounds like the water pump. its not a fun job on these cars, you have to be real careful that you dont mess up your opti. i havent done it before but i dread having to. good luck.
Old May 6, 2004 | 03:37 PM
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its not to hard to change the pump but im not sure that is your problem. Just make sure to drain the coolant first, thats all. There are 4 bolts and 2 bolt/stud-things the one by the ac compressor is a pain. The sensor that threads into the front of the pump is the AC temp sensor that sends the temp to the computer, not the gauge. If the smoke is all coming out the exhaust it could be a cracked head like somone said. You say after 5 blocks it was at 260 degress, If this is 5 blocks (a minute or so) on a cold start and your coolant goes from 70ish degrees to 260, ? that cant be a waterpump. normally that thermostat doesnt even open for about 3 minutes. If that is the case I bet it is a cracked right side head near the CTS that threads in between the #1 and #3 cyl. that is the CTS that sends the temp signal to the gauge, I normally assume its the gauge or sensor thats bad if it heats up that fast but the smoke make me think otherwise. It is possible the left head could be the problem but with it heating up that fast I would guess it is the right. I suppose you could verify it by dropping the Y pipe and looking for the white smoke.
Old May 6, 2004 | 04:38 PM
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Exclamation ***UPDATE***

Just came in from doing some test with my laptop hooked up. Of course idle, sparks, ect are fine. The only code i'm getting is an electical code due to my smog pump going out about two months ago. The car ran for a good 15 min. without going over 93C (according to the laptop), which shows about 210F on the gage. I didnt drive it, i just let it run in the drive way. This is wierd cause it did over heat the other after i let it warm up for about 10-15 min and 5 or so blocks. Will driving it make a differance? Right after i started it i checked the exhust and noticed just a bit of moister but not enough to drip, which i think is normal (corect me if i'm wrong), at the end of my testing i turned off the car and checked it and it was dry with only a little black rubbing off. The guy who had the car before me took the thermostat out by the way, if i really need to have one let me know but i didnt think it was a major deal. However i had no heater this winter and my girlfriend hated it.....women.....
thanks for the info, keep it coming plz!!
Old May 7, 2004 | 08:23 AM
  #6  
Dave Feerst's Avatar
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put the thermostat back, the car can actually overheat because coolant isnt in the radiator long enough to cool down. get a 160 degree stat
160 is the best temp for power, below that parts have not expanded properly to give proper ring seal and above that gas milage will be a bit better but power will suffer.
Old May 7, 2004 | 09:33 AM
  #7  
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I suspect you still will have a head gasket problem. Be sure to check your oil for coolant also.
Old May 7, 2004 | 12:23 PM
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Originally posted by Dave Feerst
put the thermostat back, the car can actually overheat because coolant isnt in the radiator long enough to cool down. get a 160 degree stat
160 is the best temp for power, below that parts have not expanded properly to give proper ring seal and above that gas milage will be a bit better but power will suffer.
Bingo if the coolant is in constant flow the whole time it doesnt get enough time to cool down properly in the radiator....Although i think id go with 180 only bc on these cars the operating temp is usually up above 160 or right at 160 and because if the motor doesnt get to temp it could lead to other problems...180 Stat with a SLP Fan Switch and you should be in good shape...
Old May 7, 2004 | 04:54 PM
  #9  
CJ Black LS1 Z28 M6's Avatar
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From: Atlantic City, New Jersey (south jersey)
blown headgasket almost guaranteed. If it were the waterpump you would see leaks around the weaphole and the car would overheat way before 15min and your car wouldnt be puffing white smoke. Good Luck man
Old May 7, 2004 | 06:26 PM
  #10  
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From: Gloucester-Spfld Mass
A redneck way to tell if it's a blown gasket is to smell the smoke coming out..(just don't get used to doing it ) and see if it smells sweet, yes you will know if it smells sweet, trust me. That will mean blown head gasket like shoebox say's.. If you are still unsure take the plugs out and see if they are looking new on the tip end, another telltale sign. Good luck
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