I have the 224/230 on a 114LSA, 110ICL.

Loves to pull past 6000 rpm. I shift at 6200.

Idles pretty well, it has a noticeable lope but not radical. I have my idle set to 835 in gear, any less than that and it gets really unstable and will surge.

I find the low end torque to be pretty decent..I know cruising on the interstate with the converter locked it has plenty of torque in overdrive, at least plenty for my tastes.

Its going to make more power than the hotcam because of the more aggressive lobes..it has much more duration at .200 lift and above vs. the hotcam. The hotcam is bigger below .050 lift, which isn't good for much except making it a little lopier and killing off low RPM torque (big duration at very low lift bleeds off cyl pressure at low rpms).

I am running the Combination Motorsports "618" springs with 10* locks and retainers. Also have comp 1.6 non-self aligning rockers along with hardened pushrods and guideplates and 7/16ths rocker studs. That would be my suggested valvetrain setup for anybody looking to run this cam. The Comp 987 spring would be fine too.

With this cam, Lloyd Elliot heads w/big valves, and FLP longtubes I put down 362 hp to the wheels with 13.6 air/fuel. If I had richened it up to 13.1 I think it would have made 370. considering that's an automatic with a Vig 2800 I think its good power. Probably 385hp in an M6.

 

I have this same cam but Im having electrical problems somewhere. Nothing wrong with the cam. Just some misfires or something. Other than that, I love the way it lopes. Sounds really nice.

My buddy has the same cam in his LT1 car with basically my same mods and his car pulls like a raped ape. With almost no weight reductions to his car and babying it off the line so he didnt have to worry about breaking our ****TY rearends. He ran 8.3 @ 88.4 MPH in the 1/8th. Thats not to shabby Id say.

 

Now that you mention it, I also have electrical issues, I think, right after my cam swap. My A/C compressor is killing or stalling the car. If the compressor kicks in while I am at a stop light, the rpms go down to 400 then 300 then it just dies.

I have not been able to trouble shoot this. It normally idles fine at 800.

But, it is unrelated to the x224. It has to be something else.
I just wish I knew what.

 

Im with you man. I cant run my ac while Im at a stand. It doesnt cut off anymore because we raised my idle but it does drop a good bit.

Im not getting all of the power up top due to a miss somewhere. Think its a bad plug or wire. We will see this weekend.

 

Sounds like the IAC throttle follower needs to be adjusted up. Time to get some tuning for that. Plus the missfires the other guy is talking about. If you are getting a Misfire code it is probably the crank sensor picking up the lope of the cam and thinking it is misfiring. Can fix that will tuning too.

 

Does anyone know if a 224/230 or 230/236 cam will pass emissions in California? I've read that the Hotcam and cc305 will.

Z~

 

Not sure, but i would like to know also since those are the cams i'm choosing from. I think the 224/230 will if its on a 114lsa, but not on the 112. I will probably go with the cc305 because of the emissions over here. But still trying to decide.

 

Chris is right. And you also might need to advance the spark a little at idle. Use the Closed Throttle Spark Advance table. Stock idles at 20*. Your cam may need more like 25. The correct spark advance will give you the best manifold vacuum, and the best idle.

 

Mike I have my closed throttle timing at 32 and it increased idle vacuum, dropped MAF grams/sec and lowered inj pulse widths. Doesn't really feel much different but the plus is it requires less IAC counts to idle now too.

 

Wow, 32*! Glad to hear you've got it dialed in! I've been moving mine up little by little, but I only got up to 27*. I've been running the xe 230/236 cam, but it looks like I spun a main bearing. So I want to build a blower 383 motor, and this 224/230/114 cam appears to be a very popular blower cam!

 

I actually have tuning with my cam. For some reason we couldnt get the car to run withouth the MAF plugged in. The car would just die. We found out that if I gave it some gas it would stay running . We are gonna do that this weekend and try to tune it in speed density mode to smooth some things out.

My miss is like a bad plug or crossed wire or something. We will hopefully find out this weekend.

 

Do any of you guys have a sound or video clip of the 224 cam? Thanks.

 

Biggest tuning problem I am having is a HUGE split fuel trim/BLM at idle. Blades are all the way shut and IAC is about 25 counts but it's split out the wazoo!

Everywhere else it drives fine....in some ways it drives better than the cc304 i had in there before and the old tune.

 

You guys have any idea why when I shift into 2nd gear it jumps into cell 18?

 

I have the XE 224/230 112LSA and put down 322.6 rwhp and 320.8 rwtq. I have stock heads, but I did switch over to the CSI electric waterpump and Cloyes true double roller timing chain. I have PCMforless programming and those number are with an A4. I haven't ran it at the track because my tranny is slipping bad now and won't shift into 3rd under WOT. The cam idles fine at 850 rpm in gear and 800 in neutral. The lope is awesome! If you have any questions just let me know as I did all the work on my own and it was my first time ever taking a motor apart. As far as the valvetrain I got all my stuff through Combination Motorsports and have CC pro-magnum self aligning 1.6 rockers, CM springs, locks retainers, and pushrods. They are awesome guys over there at CM.

Jeff