Here's the deal. I was driving my car a few days ago and it just turned itself off. The motor did not sieze or anything, the problem is most definately electrical. I have done almost every test imaginable, and as far as I know there are no loose wires, and no bad fuses. When turning the car over, I do not get the 1-4 volts I should be getting from the plug that goes to the ICM.

So, it is something before the ICM/coil. This leads me to believe I either have a bad PCM or the opti just straight up died. There is also no spark whatsoever. Is there any way to test and see if the opti is working? My guess is that it isn't sending the signal the PCM at all, therefore not making the coil spark.

Shoebox, maybe you can help. I did all the tests on your site, as well as the ones in my manual. But there is one test in the troubleshooting part I don't understand. It says that I need observe the low resolution signal from the opti with a tech 1. What is that supposed to mean? I see where the low res wire is, but I don't know how I am supposed to check it? Thanks

Oh, there was a pot hole about where this happened, so that might have something to do with it. The car just shut off, but the engine was still turning since the car was still going forward, until I put the clutch in. Thanks again in advance guys.

 

Hmmm.. Do you have power to the dash? My Ignition Switch went out while I was driving and it did something similar. The car wouldn't respond for a few seconds..it was like..idling on its own.. then it just died. Wouldn't restart. No clicks, no power to gauges nothing. Just an idea. You have checked for loose connections?

 

Yup, everything else works fine. The car just turned itself off and wouldn't start again. I have it narrowed down to between the opti to the ICM. It could be a loose connection somewhere in there, but I doubt it since I checked everything I could. I am guessing the PCM or the opti died. I just think it's a little odd that the opti would just shut off and never work again. If it is the opti I am done with this car until next year. First the engine has a spun bearing 300 miles after I get it, one week after the new engine the new water pump dies, two days after that the starter dies, and now this. The damn car is lucky I have so much time and money invested in it, because I just might light it on fire if I didn't.

Anyway, I am thinking of using my old opti to see if the signal is getting to the ICM. Since this one isn't, I think I can just unplug this opti, hook the old one up, and crank it over. If I get the 1-4V or whatever, then I know its the opti. How does that sound Shoebox? Since you are the car master, let me know if you think that is the best way to test the coil. Thanks again guys.

 

Clean your battery terminals, check your battery too.

 

A Tech 1 is a high dollar tool that the dealer uses. It is capable of more things than the normal low buck scanner. You could just use a meter to check the integrity of the wiring from the opti to the pcm and also from the pcm to the ICM. Chances are, it's going to be the opti. Make sure you are looking for ac voltage when you look for the 1-4 volts.

 

Sounds like a classic case of chronic spontaneous optispark death syndrome to me.

That's exactly what my opti did to me. Stalled out of nowhere, and coasted to a parking lot. Just barely got it home, then installed a new opti, plugs, and wires the next day. Problem solved.

 

check the wire that goes to your starter, it is 'always on' mine got burned up somehow going down the road and the car just died... just a thought. it was like 10 dollars to fix

 

I am almost positive I have it narrowed down to the opti or the computer. It is definately not the battery, since everything else works fine. I am prety sure it isn't the starter, because it turns over fine. The ICM is not getting the signal to fire, so it is something between there and the opti.

Shoebox, do you think I can test the opti, by hooking a good one up and seeing if I get the 1-4 volts, without actually installing it, but just hooking up the harness?

 

Hey notstock4long, its funny your description, because I had the exact same thing happen to my car. I was on my way up north to visit a buddy at night, hit a pothole and the car goes dead.

My problem was the ignition switch on the bottom of the column. I had to replace the switch, I also noticed that the terminals were bent a bit and not making as good of a contact as they should, so I removed all of the wires from the connectors and bent the terminals back to where they should be. You may just want to have a look at that b/c until I bent my terminals my problem would come and go. Hopefully you get it figured out

Cool ZR

 

Thanks.

Did you do any tests before you fixed it. I am just wondering if the ignition switch would keep the signal from getting to the ICM, or would it just keep the car from turning over? What did yours do?

 

Sorry man, I must've skipped a line or 2 in your original description... You've got full gauges, idiot lights, radio etc. I am actually not at home, so with out checking a wiring diagram, I am not sure if a signal gets sent from the column to the computer, or wether it's picked up somewhere else.

My car was completely dead, until we unloaded it off the flat bed at my house. I got in it to put it in neutral to roll it off and it all lit up, so I turned the ignition and it fired right up. If your car is turning over, I'd have to think it's between the computer and the engine. Your computer has power?

The other thing I did do was change the ignition cylinder in the car and the one I pulled out had broken wires for the VATS key. I am not sure on how to check that to make sure the car is getting a signal from the vats key. That will prevent the car from starting if it's not sending a signal. That would be a worthwhile check.

Let me know how you make out

Cool ZR

 

Mine ran like ****.. the car completely ran like ***... then it ran perfect. I knew something was up as I backed out of my parking spot. Whats this..perfect Idle.. smooth rev... uh oh.. So I put in in D and started to go back into my parking spot when *Gag* Opti pulls a SODS (Sudden Opti Death Syndrome) move. It was all over. Good luck.

 

Okay guys, looks like the opti is fine. Shoebox, you gotta let me know if the test I did makes sense. I took my old opti, which I know works, and hooked it up to the harness, but didn't install it. So, then I cranked the engine over while checking terminal B with a ground, or whatever it is, and I still didn't get the 1-4 volts. So does that mean that either a wire is bad or the PCM is fried.

 

could it be the opti harness ?

 

It better not be. My new engine was a 95, so I had to do the vented opti conversion and paid $60 for a used 1foot piece of wire. Plus, I hooked up the old non-vented opti with its harness and still didn't get any V