Would a stroker be necessary to gain .5?
There is no way that car runs 12.0 with 1.55 - 1.57 60 ft. times at 117. NO WAY! Are those 60's all natural? Can you really cut those times all natural with the 3200 converter and 3.73's? Something isn't adding up. When I ran 11.70's cam only, 60's were 1.52 and 1/8th mile was 7.39. Where are you at? 117 mph is 11.3 - 11.4 territory with a good 1.5 60.
Unfortunately I don't have the means to post the timeslips but I'll try to find someone who can.
I must say though how happy I am to have the car run as quick as it has especially after dynoing so low.
Last edited by big dave; Jan 8, 2007 at 11:45 AM.
I have a mild stroker that traps a little better than you in a full weight car, In 95 degree heat I ran consistant 11.59s with 1 11.55.
My heads are out of the box AFR 190s that have been cleaned of any casting flash (10 years old), my compression is a lowly 10.0, and my converter is only a 3000 stall.
The 383 will make enough torque to sell from 2500 on up to 6500. I have had a bunch of 355s and they were nice, but after building some 383s, the 355s feel very peaky in the same scenarios.
For instance on the street if I'm feeling froggy I don't have to worry about what gear I'm in, just what speed I'm at. With the 355s I've had you had to really make sure you were at the right RPM to pull away from someone.
I footbrake my launches and have a best of a 1.58, mph is reguarly in the low 120s and high 118 plus.
Add the cubes , keep the compression pump gas freindly, change cams, keep up with the fuel and you'll have no problems. (I think I would go with longtubes as well, midrange torque is really added with the longer primary.)
My heads are out of the box AFR 190s that have been cleaned of any casting flash (10 years old), my compression is a lowly 10.0, and my converter is only a 3000 stall.
The 383 will make enough torque to sell from 2500 on up to 6500. I have had a bunch of 355s and they were nice, but after building some 383s, the 355s feel very peaky in the same scenarios.
For instance on the street if I'm feeling froggy I don't have to worry about what gear I'm in, just what speed I'm at. With the 355s I've had you had to really make sure you were at the right RPM to pull away from someone.
I footbrake my launches and have a best of a 1.58, mph is reguarly in the low 120s and high 118 plus.
Add the cubes , keep the compression pump gas freindly, change cams, keep up with the fuel and you'll have no problems. (I think I would go with longtubes as well, midrange torque is really added with the longer primary.)
The idle sounds meaner than all get out, but is very docile (with the converter) . I had to do alot of low end tuning to get it to smell good, but with the 10:1 compression and the 847 I can run 87 octane on the street.
Oh I forgot to add, I'm building a new shortblock right now with all forged internalls, I'm shooting to raise my Static compression by a full point, and I'm getting a custom cam to help me continue to use pump gas, but I'm gonna use 92 now, I'll say bye to the cheap 87.
I'm hoping that this will put me over the edge and get me as close to a 11.0 as possible.
That is pretty much my goal with this car, go to the track , remove a few things (rear seat, swaybar) , add front and rear tires, run 11.0s, then reassemble the car and use the A/C on the way home.
I'm hoping that this will put me over the edge and get me as close to a 11.0 as possible.
That is pretty much my goal with this car, go to the track , remove a few things (rear seat, swaybar) , add front and rear tires, run 11.0s, then reassemble the car and use the A/C on the way home.
Oh I forgot to add, I'm building a new shortblock right now with all forged internalls, I'm shooting to raise my Static compression by a full point, and I'm getting a custom cam to help me continue to use pump gas, but I'm gonna use 92 now, I'll say bye to the cheap 87.
I'm hoping that this will put me over the edge and get me as close to a 11.0 as possible.
That is pretty much my goal with this car, go to the track , remove a few things (rear seat, swaybar) , add front and rear tires, run 11.0s, then reassemble the car and use the A/C on the way home.
I'm hoping that this will put me over the edge and get me as close to a 11.0 as possible.
That is pretty much my goal with this car, go to the track , remove a few things (rear seat, swaybar) , add front and rear tires, run 11.0s, then reassemble the car and use the A/C on the way home.
Last edited by big dave; Jan 8, 2007 at 12:47 PM.
I understand what you're saying but the mph is normally in the 112s to 113s in the summer. The 60' times are usually in the low 1.6s in normal weather conditions too. The conditions on the day I ran the 11.7s were perfect. I questioned the mph also but I had 3 other passes prior to the (indicated) 117 pass, in the 116s. It really wasn't adding up to me but noone else seemed to be having unusually high recorded mph. I can understand if something blew through the beams on one pass, but not on 4 passes.The car is N/A.
Unfortunately I don't have the means to post the timeslips but I'll try to find someone who can.
I must say though how happy I am to have the car run as quick as it has especially after dynoing so low.
Unfortunately I don't have the means to post the timeslips but I'll try to find someone who can.
I must say though how happy I am to have the car run as quick as it has especially after dynoing so low.
Actually, it was at capitol. I'm assuming that the clocks were showing my speed to be a couple mph higher than it should be. I can't understand why my previous passes were in the 116s on that day. Everyone I spoke to said their mph was where it should be.
Last edited by big dave; Jan 9, 2007 at 06:44 AM.
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