So this past weekend finally tore down my LT1 and found the problem. Spun rod bearing that ate up my crank pretty bad. pretty decent chunks found in the oil filter area. I mean pretty bad too, because rotating the engine by hand and the number 1 pistion would go all the way up and start to come back down, well lets just say I could stop rotating it, Stick my hand down the cylinder wall and press the piston down between 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. The bearing looked "okay" with just scratch marks all over it. The part my dad found funny was when i whacked my head against JakeJr's Engine hoist (He's a really helpful guy! Let me borrow some tools from him). Don't worry though Jake, the engine hoist is okay; no dents were made.

So main point is:
My dad pretty much said he is willing to fit the bill to get my engine internals beefed up that way later down the road I can do the rest of engine (heads/cam/valve train).

My goal from owning my z28 was to get it to 400 rwhp with all goodies (suspension, all/most the support bars, gears, ect...)
My dad says he wouldn't mind getting my internals to handle 450 rwhp.
So right now I'm feeling pretty happy that my dad is willing to help out.


Now i've done a lot of searching on the stroking out the thing to 383. But from all the different threads/posts its sort of confusing to me if it is even worth it. From what I read you can make 400 rwhp from the LE2 head package with a good cam and full supporting bolt ons with just a 350.

So basically without making this post more annoying and longer, I just input from some experienced people on what they "think" would be good for me.
I already have a machine shop in mind to take care of my block and put together the rotating assembly for me, and yes I'll ask them based on their experience what they are comfortable/think I should use. But it never hurts to get two opinions

Car: DD
HP goal at wheels: 400-450 at the wheels
Want it to be strong and hold up.
[EDIT] the MPG, who needs it?
I'd like to race the shelby mustang on my college campus and see how good of a driver they are

Basic question: Is it worth going 383 even though I'll just be putting on the basic heads again and even after that going to only 400-450hp? (Get a cam to support both for now and get a good cam after i get all my supporting mods in)

And what crank, rods, and pistons should i be looking into for my power goals????

No Spray or boost wanted here.

Just wanting a pretty much stock engine, but with the bottom end ready for the upper upgrades without sacrificing the power it did have before everything with to [EDIT].

And yes thanks for your replies but I know that ill need the supporting mods first, plan is to take care of those this summer while working for my dad and have my heads/cam/valve train/tune with maybe true dual exhaust done next summer.

Thanks for your input

 

My first suggestion is have splayed 4 bolt caps installed and line bored. Then decide if you want to stroke it and poke it. If you stroke it, you have to change at LEAST the crank obviously. If the cylinders are worn past spec, you have to have it poked anyway.

So if you change the stroke and it has to be bored, then my other suggestion is get a reputable pre-balanced rotating assembly. Such as this one:
http://www.sdpc2000.com/details/scog...enter/383lt1dr
But let's stay with a supporting vendor so look at the kit on this page:
supporting vendor RA
Only 825 big ones.

Trust me when I tell you if you try to match up parts from different sources and try to make them work together as a balanced set. It is like pulling teeth. The above ALREADY BALANCED rotating assembly is THE way to go.

You could also go the way of a short block. Here's one for your perusal:
http://www.sdpc2000.com/details/scog...enter/383lt1da
Keeping with the supporting vendor there is this:
supporting vendor SB even better at 2995 big ones.

I highly recommend staying with supporting vendors. Just included the SD for comparison

The next thing to look into is getting the PCM tuned or replacing the fuel/spark management system.
Speak to someone like PCMFORLESS about programming a unit for you. I think they work by either exchange or they actually program yours. It would however be nice to know what it is going to take BEFORE you get started.

Now IF you want to know what all this is going to cost, start adding it up. Now you have to add the gasket set. Like this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-31400911/
Not to mention replacement push rods are a minimum. Roller rockers if want to keep with HI-po theme.
And don't forget any replacement parts like water pump, distributor etc.......

 

I have had both, 355 and 383 so there is alot of difference in cost when going to 383 but it's worth it if you are looking for max HP. Now for a daily driver I would say keep it 355" and buy a good aftermarket 4340 steel crank or a nice stock crank but whatever you do don't go with an aftermarket cast crank b/c there have been alot failures here lately. My brother builds engines for a living and has had 5 customers show up with brken cast Eagle cranks in the last few months. You can make 400-450rwhp with either one, it's the heads/cam and valvetrain that make HP not the bottomend but the 383 will make more torque either way. Goodluck Later