won't start after rebuild
won't start after rebuild
i just got done rebuilding the engine, put in a cam, heads, lifters, push rods, 1.6 rr, new main bearings, new rod bearings, gaskets, seals, timning chain and timing chain gears, pcm tune, high volume oil pump, acid bath on the block, freeze out plugs, did the whole thing up. i got it back in the car and everything hooked back up and it just cranks and cranks and cranks withthe occasional backfire out of the intake manifold. the backfire leads me to beleive it could be a timing issue, but really i don't know for sure. i'm getting fuel at least to the rails because i took the cap off the valve back by the fire wall, pressed down the needle and fuel shot out. i'm getting spark, but it would almost seem like the spark is firing at the wrong time or something. tomorrow i'm taking the opti back off the doble check, but aside from that, does anyone have any suggestions?
my timing marks were lined up when the timing chain was installs and the rocker arms were set 1/8 - 1/4 past 0 lash. i had 215 psi inside the combustion chamber when we checked. all my sensors are hooked up, wiring is hooked up, plug wires are hooked up correctly....i'm out of ideas.
the opti mounted up flush on the timing chain cover and there is only 1 rectangular slot that it can fit into so it don't seem likely to be that, but i'm curious if i could be out of time somehow. i seem to be hung up in my head on it being a timing issue, and might be over looking some other things.
thanx in advance
my timing marks were lined up when the timing chain was installs and the rocker arms were set 1/8 - 1/4 past 0 lash. i had 215 psi inside the combustion chamber when we checked. all my sensors are hooked up, wiring is hooked up, plug wires are hooked up correctly....i'm out of ideas.
the opti mounted up flush on the timing chain cover and there is only 1 rectangular slot that it can fit into so it don't seem likely to be that, but i'm curious if i could be out of time somehow. i seem to be hung up in my head on it being a timing issue, and might be over looking some other things.
thanx in advance
Re: won't start after rebuild
You say the compression is consistant across all the cylinders? If so shoot some NEW fuel directly into the intake while someone cranks it over. If it does not fire but you do have spark, then the spark is occurring at the wrong time. If it does fire, either you have a fuel supply problem or the gas in your tank has been sitting too long.
Easiest way to check the timing is to set #1 to TDC. As you do that, watch the relationship of the rocker movement to the position of the piston. That will give you an indication of the chains condition. Then pull the cap off the opti.(you'll need a female torx socket) Check that the rotor is pointing to the position of the contact for the #1 cylinder.
Easiest way to check the timing is to set #1 to TDC. As you do that, watch the relationship of the rocker movement to the position of the piston. That will give you an indication of the chains condition. Then pull the cap off the opti.(you'll need a female torx socket) Check that the rotor is pointing to the position of the contact for the #1 cylinder.
Re: won't start after rebuild
It seems to me thats its an ignition/timing problem. The ignition being out of the proper timing would cause a backfire such as that. I'd check plug wires and make sure the opti is on the cam correctly. Also did you degree you cam to verify correct valve opening?
Re: won't start after rebuild
Originally Posted by Xaphanz
no, same oil pan ( stock )
Re: won't start after rebuild
A high volumn oil pump is not only useless, but as mr bad pointed out, could also be dangerous. Unless you are spinning some high RPMs, the high volumn will do more harm than good. It will in the least, put more oil up top and heat it more. The stock volumn is more than adequate for most applications. Only the really hard core need high volumn.
I would suggest you put 1 on TDC and see where the rotor is. While you position the piston, look at the relationship of the rockers movement relative to the location of the piston.
I would suggest you put 1 on TDC and see where the rotor is. While you position the piston, look at the relationship of the rockers movement relative to the location of the piston.
Re: won't start after rebuild
it's what combination motorsports send me when i ordered an oil pump. i did'nt request it, he recommended it.
and no, i didn't degree the cam. i'm not even sure what degreeing the cam does. i asked a few people about it and they told me unless i'm putting in a huge cam, not to even worry about it.
i'm pulling the opti back off. i can't imagine it being installed wrong, because it only goes one way, but who knows! as a back up, i've got my old opti which still worked. i'm gonna try swapping out the optis too.
if still i have no luck, i think i may need to concider finding a short pier and taking a long walk.
and no, i didn't degree the cam. i'm not even sure what degreeing the cam does. i asked a few people about it and they told me unless i'm putting in a huge cam, not to even worry about it.
i'm pulling the opti back off. i can't imagine it being installed wrong, because it only goes one way, but who knows! as a back up, i've got my old opti which still worked. i'm gonna try swapping out the optis too.
if still i have no luck, i think i may need to concider finding a short pier and taking a long walk.
Re: won't start after rebuild
oh, does a high volume oil pump look the same as a stock oil pump?? the invoice said high volume, but the part looked exactly the same. part # mel-10555 melling high volume oil pump SBC bolt on style pick up and MEL12557 melling bolt on pick up for #10555 7" Deep pan.
Re: won't start after rebuild
If I remember correctly (old age brain)
the higher volumn pump has taller gears and therefore has a longer housing than the standard volumn pump.
To check the opti for correct orientation as I mentioned before, you do not have to remove it. In fact it's easier to see it with it left on. Just remove the cap. But you have to put a piston at top dead and see if the rotor is pointing in the direction of the contact for that cylinder. This will answer several questions at the same time and you don't have to risk breaking the seal to do so.
the higher volumn pump has taller gears and therefore has a longer housing than the standard volumn pump. To check the opti for correct orientation as I mentioned before, you do not have to remove it. In fact it's easier to see it with it left on. Just remove the cap. But you have to put a piston at top dead and see if the rotor is pointing in the direction of the contact for that cylinder. This will answer several questions at the same time and you don't have to risk breaking the seal to do so.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dbusch22
Forced Induction
6
Oct 31, 2016 11:09 AM



