LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Will my 2 bolt mains hold up

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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 02:40 PM
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93 black t/a's Avatar
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Will my 2 bolt mains hold up

Ok so i'm building a 383, and i've been doing some research on 2 vs 4 bolt mains. I was wondering if i could re use the factory 2 bolt mains and not have to upgrade to splayed mains. Heres a rough list of my build.
Comp Cams 1.6 Pro Mag Rockers
Pac Bee Hive 1218 Springs
CC503 cam
LE2 Heads
Ported Intake and 58 TB
Pacesetter LT's
30lb injectors
Comp Cams High Energy Push Rods
Comp Cams R Hydraulic Roller Lifters

This is my bottom end:
SCAT 9000 Steel Crank w/ 3.750 Stroke
Clevite77 Rods/Mains Bearings
Lunati Forged "I" Beam Rods
JE Forged F/T Pistons
JE Pistion Rings

I dont plan on spinning it that high, but it will be daily driven and make frequent visits to the track. My main goal is to get in the 11's
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 02:53 PM
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you will be fine with 2-bolt mains. Just for added security go studded 2-bolt mains.
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 04:02 PM
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If you switch from stock bolts to main studs the block will then need the mains to be line honed.

Rich
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 04:09 PM
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Question

91RSLT1, can you just go with main cap "studs" instead of "bolts" without having the main caps/block align bored??? Thought doing that was a NO-NO?

Or are you just saying ..... go with say ARP bolts vs OEM bolts......for added security?
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 04:12 PM
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Talking

Rich...you beat me to the punch!
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 04:17 PM
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So i should be fine with stock caps, but upgrade to studded mains? When you have it honed will i need bigger bearings or is that just when you align bore it?
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 05:01 PM
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by 93 black t/a
So i should be fine with stock caps, but upgrade to studded mains? When you have it honed will i need bigger bearings or is that just when you align bore it?
WOW! Not really sure what you're attempting to ask here??? But I'll try and help you out.

Without, re-align honing/boring (honing and/or boring only depends on how much material they have to remove to achive re-alignment); your ONLY choice is to use your stock 2-bolt main caps with an "upgraded" (i.e. better) bolt (e.g. an ARP bolt instead of the OEM bolt).

If you want to do anything else with your main cap situation/configuration....you'll need to have it align honed and/or align bored, and, if you're willing to do that ........ you're half way to the cost of doing the 4-bolt splayed conversion. Got it?

Last edited by 97 6SPEED Z; Feb 6, 2008 at 05:04 PM.
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 05:36 PM
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Sorry i was confused from the other post. So will the factory 2 bolt mains with ARP bolts be able to handle my setup? Thanks for your help
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 06:03 PM
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With your setup the stock 2 bolt mains will be fine. Yes if you want to use ARP fasteners you can do that without an issue as well. If you want to and since you are rebuilding it anyway you will probably be line honing it so using studs won't be a problem either, but it is not needed. I ran stock bolts and caps on my motor and it held up fine.

Edit: Also are the parts you have listed already bought or what you want to buy?

Last edited by ulakovic22; Feb 6, 2008 at 06:07 PM.
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ulakovic22
With your setup the stock 2 bolt mains will be fine. Yes if you want to use ARP fasteners you can do that without an issue as well. If you want to and since you are rebuilding it anyway you will probably be line honing it so using studs won't be a problem either, but it is not needed. I ran stock bolts and caps on my motor and it held up fine.

Edit: Also are the parts you have listed already bought or what you want to buy?
No there not bought yet. I can't decide if i wanna go ahead and go with splayed cuz i know i'll probably end up wanting to spray it. I've always been a do it right the first so it'll last kinda guy.
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 08:34 PM
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IMHO you can get a qaulity rod for cheaper, cranks good, no experience with JE but a lot of people run them so I'm sure they're good and decently priced. Get a larger injector and stay away from the Comp R lifters. Stock replacements work fine.
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 08:46 PM
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yeah i read the comp r's have been have been having problems breaking. i'm getting my rotating assembly through rpmmachine.com and the cost difference is 100 bucks between lunati and the scat rods so i figured just more insurance, which is why i'll probably go splayed caps. it'll help me sleep better at night
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 09:13 PM
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i would beef up that area because otherwise it will be the weak point in your bottom end. Try to have all the parts with in a certain hp limit. That way you have no weak link.
Old Feb 7, 2008 | 12:12 AM
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Save a lot of your money and do this...

2 bolt main
stock crank
eagle h beam rods and wiseco forged pistons

Make it a 355, I ran this setup in my formula and you should be good for 600rwhp at a lot less cost.
Old Feb 7, 2008 | 12:29 AM
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You need to have the main housing bore checked anyways to make sure it's in spec - if it is good, then the 2 bolt caps and stock bolts will be fine for your mild street motor.

The JE pistons and Lunati rods are overkill for what you have planned. Use some Wiseco or SRP and save a few hundred bucks, same with the rods - some Manley Sportsmasters will save you a couple bills there too. By saving money in those areas you can get studs for the main caps and have it line honed.

Last edited by MachinistOne; Feb 7, 2008 at 12:32 AM.



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