I was looking through Jegs and was wondering if the 1 piece rear seal cranks will work ok in an LT1 block? Will the standard Eagle H Beam rod also work ok in an LT1?

I am trying to find the cheapest way to build a 355 that will be able to handle about a 150shot with a good set of heads.

Or should I just go to a 383 from Nu-Tek and not worry about the 355. 383 short block for $3800 or 355 short block for $?.

Thanks

 

The gen1 oem blocks use a 2-piece rear seal unless you're talking about some of the Bow-tie and aftermarket blocks.

The connecting rods don't care which block they go in... they're all the same (gen1 & 2).

-Mindgame

 

the stock crank and rods&pistons can handle a 150+ shot I have been running a 150 shot on my stock motor with a 108k on it for a while probally put 10-15 bottels threw it and no problems yet the weak part of the LT1 is the pistons...get a good set of pistons like JE or SRP and a good set of rings. you will be able to spray a 200 shot easy.. then if you want more strenth go to better Rods the crank will handle about anything you throw at it on a street car.

 

If you want the strongest bottom end then you go with Nu-Tek and you PAY alot for the best parts. Those blocks are not over priced at all either, they are worth the money if you have it. But I believe that if you want a block that handle a good amount of nitrous (150 shot) then a fully forged bottom end is not needed. The stock crank be used, after careful inspection, and i would recommend 4340 rods and forged pistons. Scat makes those rods for abot $280 and Summit has a very reasonable priced forged piston kit. It comes with Speed Pro pistons, rings, all the bearings, complete gasket set, oil pump, and freeze plugs for $539 and they have a Hyper. kit for a few bucks less. That would handle a 150 shot with no problem, but no more, unless you upgrade your fuel system and ignition also. If you want to talk more about this then E-mail me at chronicly@aol.com

Nick