I have a bone stock 95 z28 that needs a replacement cam. I found this one in my price range. OEM #3863151. Cam lift 0.298" intake, 0.298" exhaust. Class II. Not California complaint. Not computer compatible. Power range 2100-5600. Using hydraulic lifters.
Intake Cam Lift Duration:290
Exhaust Cam Lift Duration:290
Intake Cam Lift:0.298
Exhaust Cam Lift:0.298
Intake Gross Valve Lift:0.447
Exhaust Gross Valve Lift:0.447

Will the stock valve springs take that lift?

 

The valve lift numbers are the same or less than a stock cam.

Those are screwy looking numbers for an LT1 cam. ?? Where is this from and what is the LSA?

 

I recommend just buying used cam if you can't afford to upgrade anything else. Mystery cams typically don't work out well for people.

 

Thanks, this cam is from autozone. If you look it up under the OEM number 3863151 it usually is seen in a 350 hp kit.

I would like to get a stock cam on the cheap, but this new one is 71 bucks minus 20 percent coupon for my rewards points. Makes it around 57 bucks.
I consider used cams to be mystery cams, and without matching lifters makes me worry to much. I suppose the parts have to mate either way but a used cam could have a nick from sitting or shipping etc.

 

How much is a new OEM exact stock replacement? And where would I find one?

 

ShoeBox, I was reading your how to about the camshaft replacement. Good step by step BTW! I am to the part where I need to pull the crank hub off. In your instructions you got:

What kind of puller did you use there? I have the 3 jaw puller on it, and I've cranked down pretty hard(keeping it centered with the socket on there). It isn't budgin with alot of force. I want to make sure there isn't some kind of lock pin or some queer junk like that before really cranking hard on this puller.

Is this supposed to pull right out?
How far should the crank bolt be threaded in to avoid damage?

Here is a couple pics of where I am.

 

If you buy this cam and install it in your engine, you will be........sorry .

What makes you think you need a new cam?

KW

 

So how does one get a replacement camshaft that requires no additional mods/upgrades? That is what autozone listed, but there are others to choose from. I'd like to stay under 100. I've seen a used one on ebay for 75 but I'd rather a new one to mate up to my lifters(105k miles).

I know I need a cam because the one lifter had a flat spot and I could feel an unsmooth spot on the cam matching the lifter with a gouge. It was making a ticking/squawk sound when warmed up to operating temp. The previous owner just had the intake manifold changed right before the ticking sound started. From the looks of his mechanics work I believe debris may have cause the failure. It appears to have rolled over something leaving small pits behind.

Here is a quick video showing the lifter as best I can:
[autostream]http://autostream.com/camaroz28/?page_type=firebirdplayerthumbnail&framepage=2766& transactionid=1363481022-7118173127&posted_by=divineprime_www.camaroz28.com &youtube_video_id=zJQ1M9q6n0Q[/autostream]

 

No, no, no. You are going to bend or break the hub! Use a normal balancer puller. Here is the gist of how you remove the hub:
Remove and Install the LT1 Crank Hub | Tech Aids & Articles

Do not thread a bolt into the crank to push against. Use a high grade rod or smaller bolt that will not bend and slides in to bottom out in the crank bolt hole.

 

Alright thank you! It didn't mention it in the camshaft removal how to, so all you need is a quick link in there.

I actually was able to pull it out an eighth on an inch, but it was to hard to keep the bolt from spinning. The parts store was closed by then though, lol.
It makes sense to bottom out with smaller/longer bolt. I appreciate all of your work and help!

 

I have edited the text to say to use a balancer puller (I assumed [perhaps erroneously] that people would know this). I don't like putting links to other sites, because they can dissappear.

 

Well the 3 way puller did work good. It was just the darn bolt spinning. How could the 3 way have broken it? It is tricky to get in position and snugged but otherwise it either falls off or works. Anyhow I will see if they have a better puller.... already been back to exchange the first puller which was to small. Then saw your cam how to, so I got the 3-way to pull off the pulley half and dist.

 

With the jaw puller, you are putting all the torque on the farthest part of the hub spokes. I have never heard of anyone breaking a spoke with a balancer puller, but have seen numerous broken ones with the jaw puller. When you break a spoke, it is really hard to get the hub off.

 

Your killing me man.

This is not 1973, the lifters aren't married to a lobe in a Hydraulic roller application. Find a stock camshaft that GM spent time, money, R&D to fit your motor's needs and put it back in there. The factory camshafts are BILLET steel! If you could afford something new, we could start talking about other routes, but without money your options are limited.

Also I recommend checking over the whole valvetrain. Check the spring pressure on at least 1/2 of them [especially the #5 springs], rockers, etc.

If you could afford a little more even a Hotcam upgrade with LT4 spring kit would be a decent option while you've got it open, but not the Autozone cam. Hell new springs might not be a bad idea while it's open. Freshening up the valvetrain isn't a bad idea.

 

Ah, well I have some old motor heads in the family and they insisted that cam to lifter must be a match or at least one of them be new. I did mention that the rollers simply roll, but....you know how they can be opinionated.
Funny 1973 is around the time my father worked for chrysler.

So I had already generally come to the conclusion I should go with a stock cam, but still dont know what the part number is or where is a good source, and how much is a good upper and lower price range for a used stock cam. I tried trudging through the for sale section here but no contacts yet.

Is the part number for my 95 z28 cam?
Answer: 12551705