Will this block need to be okay without honing?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,842
From: Bloomfield Hills MI
Will this block be okay without honing?
http://kak.com/patch/DSCN1156.JPG
http://kak.com/patch/DSCN1157.JPG
http://kak.com/patch/DSCN1158.JPG
http://kak.com/patch/DSCN1159.JPG
http://kak.com/patch/DSCN1160.JPG
As you can see the hone is as clear as day (500 miles since it was last honed) so it was already honed once. I was curious if it will even need to be honed again to use with a 383 stroker. Would the scratches come out with another hone?
Is honing a cylinder two times safe with a stock bore piston?
http://kak.com/patch/DSCN1157.JPG
http://kak.com/patch/DSCN1158.JPG
http://kak.com/patch/DSCN1159.JPG
http://kak.com/patch/DSCN1160.JPG
As you can see the hone is as clear as day (500 miles since it was last honed) so it was already honed once. I was curious if it will even need to be honed again to use with a 383 stroker. Would the scratches come out with another hone?
Is honing a cylinder two times safe with a stock bore piston?
Last edited by Rodrigues; Oct 11, 2003 at 08:30 PM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,842
From: Bloomfield Hills MI
My finger does not catch on any of the scratches but if you feel it with the skin on the end of your finger you can kinda tell something is there...
Originally posted by Slow95car
Just b/c you can see crosshatch doesnt mean the bore is round all the way through. The bore tapers, you need to mic it in several different spots throughout the borw, top and bottom in order to see.
Those scratches look pretty deep, i dont think a hone will take care of those, does your fingernail catch on them?
Just b/c you can see crosshatch doesnt mean the bore is round all the way through. The bore tapers, you need to mic it in several different spots throughout the borw, top and bottom in order to see.
Those scratches look pretty deep, i dont think a hone will take care of those, does your fingernail catch on them?
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,931
From: Upstate NY
The crosshatch angle of the honing looks extremely shallow to me. Perhaps it's the camera angles, but I really don't see any crosshatch angle at all.
If you are going to stroke it, you'll need new pistons anyway. Depending on the bore size now, you may be able to get pistons .010 over the size now in the engine. That's a honable amount of stock removal, and it should remove the scratches.
IMO, don't use the same shop/guy to rehone as the one who did your current bores. You don't want parallel hone scratches; they need to have an angle of approximately 30 degrees from the horizontal. The crosshatch pattern is what holds the oil molecules to prevent scuffing or vertical scratchng of the cylinder walls.
My $.02
If you are going to stroke it, you'll need new pistons anyway. Depending on the bore size now, you may be able to get pistons .010 over the size now in the engine. That's a honable amount of stock removal, and it should remove the scratches.
IMO, don't use the same shop/guy to rehone as the one who did your current bores. You don't want parallel hone scratches; they need to have an angle of approximately 30 degrees from the horizontal. The crosshatch pattern is what holds the oil molecules to prevent scuffing or vertical scratchng of the cylinder walls.
My $.02
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,842
From: Bloomfield Hills MI
I don't think its shallow... I think its non existant like you mentioned. I only see horizontal honing, there is no evidence of any angled honing.
Originally posted by OldSStroker
The crosshatch angle of the honing looks extremely shallow to me. Perhaps it's the camera angles, but I really don't see any crosshatch angle at all.
If you are going to stroke it, you'll need new pistons anyway. Depending on the bore size now, you may be able to get pistons .010 over the size now in the engine. That's a honable amount of stock removal, and it should remove the scratches.
IMO, don't use the same shop/guy to rehone as the one who did your current bores. You don't want parallel hone scratches; they need to have an angle of approximately 30 degrees from the horizontal. The crosshatch pattern is what holds the oil molecules to prevent scuffing or vertical scratchng of the cylinder walls.
My $.02
The crosshatch angle of the honing looks extremely shallow to me. Perhaps it's the camera angles, but I really don't see any crosshatch angle at all.
If you are going to stroke it, you'll need new pistons anyway. Depending on the bore size now, you may be able to get pistons .010 over the size now in the engine. That's a honable amount of stock removal, and it should remove the scratches.
IMO, don't use the same shop/guy to rehone as the one who did your current bores. You don't want parallel hone scratches; they need to have an angle of approximately 30 degrees from the horizontal. The crosshatch pattern is what holds the oil molecules to prevent scuffing or vertical scratchng of the cylinder walls.
My $.02
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 442
From: Houston, TX
When I looked at the pictures I thought the same thing Old Stroker mentioned... the crosshatch angle is very low. Whoever honed that had their head spinning too fast. Or that is straight out of the boring bar, which I doubt there is anyone stupid enough to do that. Either way, yes you should rehone it. If you're running good forged pistons (JE, Ros, Wiseco, etc) you could take it out another .001-.002 and be fine clearance wise.
Later
Chuck
Later
Chuck
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,442
From: Tacoma, WA, USA
Originally posted by S.J.S.
Dude if your gonna stroke it why be skimpy on the hone job????? "JUST DO IT". I would personally do it for piece of mind so I don't keep thinking later "I wish I had done it"....
Dude if your gonna stroke it why be skimpy on the hone job????? "JUST DO IT". I would personally do it for piece of mind so I don't keep thinking later "I wish I had done it"....
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 129
From: British Columbia, Canada
I am agreed with some previous posters. There is no crosshatch, and the surface appears very rough, possibly it is the actual boring marks. The block should be taken to a good machine shop. They will hone to produce the correct surface finish, cross hatch angle, and clearance. Only accurate measurment will reveal if the bore is too large after the next hone. If that engine ran with the cylinder wall finish shown, it must have been a smoker. The piston rings should be examined very carefully, or replaced. No doubt the faces have taken a real beating.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
