tonight i ran bad times at the track and when i reviewed datamaster i discovered it was pulling up to 10.3 degrees of knock retard, and it would pull 10 degrees off the line even though the knock counts didn't increase. later on in the run the knock counts would increase and it'd pull 10 degrees again.

why would the PCM pull 10 degrees of knock retard with no increase in knock count?

 

You could have a bad knock sensor. Have you changed it?

 

no

also have LT4 knock module

does IAT have anything to do with it? it was heatsoaked at 140 degrees F at the beginning of the runs, and still was greater than 90 after the runs and it was rather cold out, prolly 60'ish.

 

That does seem kinda high for as cool a night as last night was...

You could try relocating it and/or replacing it to eliminate it as a possibility.

But the knock count being a constant 10 degrees is making me lead toward a bad knock sensor. I'm no expert though, as you can see from my sig I'm battling a KR problem too.

 

There is a table in the pcm called Burst Knock....the pcm actually anticipates knock if certain conditions are met and pulls timing before the knock can accure.

 

Run your tank till your about empty. Then put a couple gallons of race gas in there. Run the scanner again and if the knock is still there then it's FALSE KNOCK. Probably being caused by headers or noisy valvetrain etc.. You'll get to the point in mods where you'll get soo much false knock that you just bypass the thing all together like I did

 

hey how did u bypass it all together I was told I cnat just turn off the knock sensor...I keep getting low voltage codes which causes it to run a safety mode of preset ignition retards for instance 11 degrees at wot and like 8 at half throttle

 

If you are getting knock retard without increasing knock counts, I'm willing to bet your knock sensor is bad. Happened to me a while back, then the car started throwing code 43 (which is for a bad knock sensor or bad voltage to knock sensor). Replaced the sensor and the problem disappeared.

 

If you have the computer programmed, you can have the knock sensor zeroed out and it won't send out the retard signals. You have to be careful doing this because you can damage your engine if you aren't careful.

 

well what im thinking is that im gonna do that because I always use fresh gas from a local mobil or shell which alot of people fo to so its new all the time...and then if I have a knock like a bearing or something in the bottom end going then Im gonna need a new motor anyway but I hate winding it out and then getting an 11degree brick wall of KR thats good for like 30hp. First im gonna try a new sensor though

 

Do you have pro mag rockers? If you do then Ill say its those. When I installed my cam I got KR right off the bat an I couldnt understand what was going on for like 4 months. Then bored I just adjusted the rockers and didnt tighten with the 3/4 turn I just adjusted with motor running til valve stop ticking then went just 1/2 turn. KR gone. 0 was my hero and I felted the power that I was loosing. I was getting 7-8 kr. If you are getting 11 you really miss the power..TRy that tho.

 

How did you adjust your rockers with the engine running without having the oil all over the place? I've heard of the "caps" you can put on the rockers while you tune them... do they fit the pro magnums?

 

Remember that 'spark knock/detonation' is NOT 'bearing knock' [but it will destroy piston/bearings...]

 

If you're sure it isn't spark knock, you might want to try an LT4 knock module. They aren't as sensitive as a normal LT1 module. Might help.

 

Listen to him. I had the same thing happen and fixed the above tables in TunerCat and I don't get retard without counts going up anymore.