I have removed everything necessary to lower the fuel tank but it will not come down enough to the right to allow fuel neck to clear the inter-panel. We have gotten the fuel neck within 2-3" of clearing.The lower end of the shocks have been undone and rear is as low as it will go. panHard bar removed, exhaust moved out of the way, heat shield, tank shield and brace removed and tank tie-downs removed. There appears to be ample room but the tank just will detach fully to the right. Is there something that I am doing wrong or have not detached from above tank. Project have gone great to this point because the vehicle is a garage queen and all bolts were clean and zero rust.
Thought after disconnecting everything illustrated in the Haynes manual that the tank would just slide out to the right. Project was quite easy until we got to this hang-up (excuse the pun)
Please help if anyone has any tricks or encounted this problem. I need to replace the fuel pump.
TIA

 

You've run into the most frustrating part of the job. The tank won't come down without either tweaking (bending) the filler neck or trimming the inside panel a few mm. Most tweak the filler neck a bit to get it out, and tweak it back after putting it back in. I trimmed about 1/4" of the panel with tin snips. Slides in and out easily now.

Good luck!

 

Thanks nateh,
I feel sooooo much better because I thought that this bending / tweaking seemed like the only solution last night. Rather than doing that last night we walked away to re-think the dilemma and come here for advice.
Thanks so very much and I will let you know how it goes.

 

I used a metal file to file it down a little (took forever) I think it would be hard to get tin snips in there but if you can do that. I also got the biggest pry bar I owned , and bent the tube (straighter) making it go through. hth
-brandon

-oh and like he said I bent mine back after it was all put together.

 

Thanks bdc95ta. How much this you guys file or cutoff. Was it hard to re-shape the tube? How much deflection (bending) was necessary?
Any other advice or tricks on replacing the unit itself. I plan on using the OEM ACDelco unit.
TIA

 

Should have just went through the hatch.

 

You would think that GM would have installed one. Actually it was kind of fun getting deep down and dirty with the car. I normally let "true" mechanics do this type of work but my step-son loves working on cars and convinced me that this was something that we could do at home. My biggest fear was the vehicle towed not the cost of the repair. Fortunately the pump failed in my basement garage.
I will used the maneuvers suggested and get that darn tanks out.

Thanks again guys.

 

I changed mine from the top. Much easier

 

I knew people would come in and say "you should have gone through the top". That does not help the guy, who has done nearly all the work to get it out the bottom. You should also notice that he has a convertible and that access from the top is much more restricted and harder to do some kind of hatch.

 

I had to pull my rear end out. One I got that out with everything else removed after alot of persuasion I got it out with out cutting or having to file anything. The way the filler neck is I had to pull the tank to the passanger side of the car then twist the front of the tank up. Just work it little by little and you will get it out. I also think it helps to have another person there to move the filler neck and guide it out.

 

I took the rear out completely as well, in my convertible. You're almost there anyway, you might just do that...

I don't remember having to bend the fill tube, and certainly didn't cut/file anything off.

Dave

 

Thanks guys!!
We are going to try again this afternoon and use a little more persuasion before cutting or bending. We will use the "one guy under pulling and one me handling the neck" and see what happens. I would love to put in a crap door but only with the tank removed (if there is room on a convertible). Not too keen with heat near a fuel tank.

Kinda late for this question but is there a fuse for the fuel pump? I already checked the relay and it is okay. My manuals states there is a fuse but I could not find one that stated which fuse. I checked them all in both fuse boxes and they appeared ok.
TIA

 

The tank's aluminum and the tube was easy to bend. If you look in there where it hangs up you will see a thinner metal going to a thicker one. Just cut the thin stuff. Maybe 1/2in.-1in. of metal on the bottom. It makes things go so much easier. I almost did the whole job by myself except for the part your on now. I had to call a friend to help me guide it out, good luck!
-b

 

I just had this same problem. Don't worry about taking it all the way out if you're only replacing the pump! The tank will twist vertical enough to pull the pump out, towards the back of the car.

 

The tank is steel, not aluminum..