When you do decide to get the factory o2 again. You can buy them at http://www.samtaylor.com/html/parts.html
For less than half the price that the dealer sells em for.

Hope that helps,
Claude

 

Is it an auto or manual? I don't think that has anything to do with the o2 sensor. If your o2 sensor was not working, usually the engine light comes on. It has nothing to do with engine speed. Your engine just wouldn't be running right. That is another sensor, i would take it to the dealer and run a scan on it and see if any codes are tripped. It also could have something to do with the transmission, not fully disengaging. Check your trans fluid. Did the check engine light ever come on?? It will usually go off when you shut the car off. I would go check your trans fluid....not that it is it, but might be. There's my 2 cents. Jason

 

You might need to head up the O2's as the headers (after market)don't get hot enough to send messages to the computor like cast iron exhaust manifolds do.My02

 

i have no problems with bosch products

 

I would look for vacuum leaks that might be causing your idle problems. Monitoring it with a scan tool would be helpful.

 

Well I recently removed my EGR and AIR pump but I blocked off the back of the manifold and used RTV on the block off plate to seal both openings then I capped the lower vacuum port on the driver side of the manifold that went to the EGR valve on the back. If I delete the AIR pump but leave something connected would that cos any problems? I tied up both plug ins that went directly to the air pump but is there any other plug ins elsewhere in the engine compartment that I maybe missed? Also, just for something to try I stuff a shirt in my homemade CAI to see if maybe the forced air was making the MAF read screwy and it would idle 500 RPM's lower than the 2500-3000 RPM's that it was before while moving so don't know if maybe the programming is off, maybe Bryan made a mistake by accident somewhere in the PCM. I e-mailed him and waiting for a reply to see what he thinks. I also put my stock screened and unported MAF ends back in to see if that made a difference and if anything it seems to be a little worse with them. So I still dunno whats going on but I'll double check all my vacuum lines.

 

Also I can hear the car trying to kickdown the throttle kind of when driving. I'm trying to figure out why its speed related.

 

There is definitly a function in the PCM programming that on manual transmission cars keeps the idle up to about 1100 rpm until you come to a complete stop. The amount that the idle is held up to I believe is adjustable, I think therefore it is possible that either that value was accidentally changed or is being influenced by some other defective signal or PCM modification.
The fact that your car idles normally at a complete stop indicates that this "low speed idle function" is somehow involved. Antother way to check it may be to disconnect your speedometer at the tranny and see if that corrects your problem.

 

Where does the speedometer connect to the tranny? I'll unplug it and see if that helps any. I definately think it has something to do with the programming because everything worked fine before I had that done.

 

maybe your IAC is gummed up?

 

I unplugged my speedometer from the tranny and now it idles right at 1000 RPM while coasting so it has something to do with the way my PCM was programmed. I'm trying to get a hold of Bryan to see how he can remedy the situation.