Currently have 95 Firebird, Trans-Am with 5.7L LT1, stock w/ cast iron heads. Not the original motor - it's out of a police car (Caprice, 1996). The engine is showing signs of problems and I need to start a long-term plan for the car.

If I were to buy a new engine or otherwise acquire one or have one built what are some best plug-and-play options? How much is involved if not stock, like a 383?

Goal: stock or mildly upgraded but still street legal.
Budget: < 5,000 and closer to 2,000 it would happen sooner.

Options considered: buying a Crate rebuilt LT1 LongBlock. Buying other plug-and-play motors - not sure who/where. Stroker 383 (though probably not). Rebuilding (having rebuilt) my current engine. I don't really know.

I'd love to hear a bunch of good ideas from the seasoned vets around here. Thanks!

 

If the budget is 2k to 4k, then don't do a 383. You can buy the motor for about that much, but then you have to change injectors, beef up/ replace rear, upgrades to handle the extra power/ torque, and you will quickly be at 6k to 8k. For your budget, stay with a 355, give it a good cam and heads, if not forced induction or nitrous, you can get away with non forged pistons, and have good power and economy. Just IMHO. Also I would rather find a good machine shop locally than get a motor from someone thousands of miles away. Just make sure they know lt1's. Alot of machine shops not knowing lt1's will try to build it like a sbc. Lt1's like compression due to the reverse cooling. So get to know the shop that is doing it, and make sure you go over all the details before paying to have the work done. If there are no shops locally you feel good about, then I would go to one of the supporting vendors on these sites and go with who you feel comfortable with.


hth

Andy Schuck

 

This is great feedback...just what I'm looking for. 383 is OUT.

Can't wait to hear from some others, too.

 

Whatever you do make sure you ditch the iron heads. Find a set of aluminum heads on the boards or ebay and have a valve job done with a good set of springs.

 

Why? If not looking for big power with ported heads the iron heads work just fine.
I would not bother putting much money into porting them but if looking mostly for a fresh motor to replace a failing one why not. They can handle some cam upgrade with new springs.

 

What are the differences (beside the 800.00) in this vs. this:

http://www.rebuiltcrateengines.com/c...ne-p-2103.html

http://www.powertrainproducts.net/product-p/1027.htm


If the route ends up to buy one outright and not do something locally, which is less likely, perhaps, but possible, what's up wit those two vs. the price? Thoughts?

 

LS1 Swap FTW...LS1 K-member ecu and have at it!

 

Nice idea, but it should be mentioned that I'm a computer guy...not so much a car guy. I'm learning and what I'm learning so far is stock LT1...so I don't want to get over my head or my budget.

 

Along with the two links above for crate and other LT1s, a local place, PER (Portland Engine Rebuilders) offers these two (heads different) at good prices and importantly very much local:

3234.1 $1,975 CHEV V-8 350 5.7L 1992-97 LT1 - IRON HEADS - REVERSE COOLING VIN-P
3235.1 $2,275 CHEV V-8 350 5.7L 1993-97 LT1 - ALUM HEADS - REVERSE COOLING VIN-P

I could probably custom order one of these (aluminum likely) and upgrade the Cam a little...idk

 

Do you have other bolt ons such as headers, exhaust, cai ?

If so, how about this:

http://www.ellweinengines.com/Ellwei...Kit/355Kit.htm
$2300

+

http://elliottsportworks.com/?page_id=51
$1200

If not, how about just the same bottom end kit but just adding the hot cam kit. Its a bit outdated, but its complete and cheap and better than stock?

 

I like the LE2 heads idea w/ compatible cam.

The LE2 heads kit comes bundled with this cam as it's 'biggest' offering:
224/230 .573/.568 112 LSA. – 1700-6100 RPM

Is that cam the same as what's referred to as the CC503? (224/230 on 112 LSA)?

 

Considering you can find used aluminum castings for ~$200 it's not a bad investment since he's likely going to need a valve job anyway (and springs if he replaces the cam). May as well use a set of aluminum heads and save 40 lbs.

 

I noticed you're from Vancouver, WA. Have you heard of Wong's Performance Engineering? As far as I know he's the only game in town (town being the northwest United States) for LSX/ LTX tuning. I've visited his shop a handful of times with my 383 LT1 and he builds engines, too. You should ask about getting an LT1 from him or discuss options about rebuilding etc.

 

IMO people are way to quick to mess with stock parts. The only LT1 heads I know of ever really "NEEDING" a valvejob were fresh ones from a particular porting shop. Stock stuff is generally pretty good and efforts to improve it very cheaply rarely work out.

I would not go blindly doing a valvejob on stock heads.

 

Yes, I have heard of Wong's and many people highly recommend him - though mainly for tuning purposes.

I will say that if I can find a way to bend his ear in the planning stages, he's someone who's wisdom/experience I would trust to a large degree. I'm planning to take advantage of the valuable local resource before I proceed very far.

I doubt I could afford him to build my engine, but who he suggests could be critical to the success of the plan/new enging/re-build, etc.