LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

wheel swap

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Old 02-08-2004, 11:18 PM
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wheel swap

Just wanted to know if my 2000 five bar trans am wheels will fit on my 94 firebird formula. I heard the rear wheels needed to be machined slightly to fit over the rear hubs. Any one know if this is so and exactly what part needs machined and by how much. Thanks andy
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Old 02-08-2004, 11:40 PM
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The back, center of the wheel that fits over the rear axle hub needs to be relieved just a little. You can sand, Dremel or file just enough to make it fit (keep test fitting it until it clears). Don't even think about forcing the wheels on with the lug nuts. The front ones will clear, but if you want to rotate them, you will have to relieve them, too.
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Old 02-08-2004, 11:45 PM
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ok

thanks for the rply ill let u know how it works out.
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Old 02-09-2004, 07:56 AM
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Is this true about putting 2000 Z wheels on a 94' b/c I have done this and changed nothing!!! THANKS!!
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Old 02-09-2004, 11:09 AM
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Originally posted by ppmz28
Is this true about putting 2000 Z wheels on a 94' b/c I have done this and changed nothing!!! THANKS!!
It is true in most cases. Not every wheel is the same, though. There have been people that said they had no problem when putting them on. Later, they would not come off because they had mistakenly jammed them on in the first place.
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Old 02-09-2004, 11:49 AM
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I had to clearance mine to fit ('99 wheels onto a '94). The fronts will fit fine, the rears are the ones that need clearancing. You'll be able to tell if yours need it too...put one on the rear, tighten it down by hand (DO NOT USE AN IMPACT), and look to see if the wheel has butted up against the plate. If you see any gap at all (or if you can slip a piece of paper in between the two), you'll have to grind it out a little.
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Old 02-09-2004, 12:24 PM
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Originally posted by Type_O_Negative_1320
I had to clearance mine to fit ('99 wheels onto a '94). The fronts will fit fine, the rears are the ones that need clearancing. You'll be able to tell if yours need it too...put one on the rear, tighten it down by hand (DO NOT USE AN IMPACT), and look to see if the wheel has butted up against the plate. If you see any gap at all (or if you can slip a piece of paper in between the two), you'll have to grind it out a little.
He is right! Along with shoebox!
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Old 02-09-2004, 09:59 PM
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would it not be wise to just machine the rear hubs down a little so I can still rotate my tires without grinding down all four rims? Just an idea.
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Old 02-10-2004, 09:01 AM
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It would be much easier just to grind on the wheels. If you look at one of the wheels, you'll see a little "lip" inside the center that fits over the hub...that's what needs to be removed. It took me about 15 minutes per wheel with a power drill and a grinding bit (ghetto, but it worked).

I don't think machining the hub down would be a smart idea, but then again, I don't know enough about it to tell you not to. I'm just telling you what would be the easiest way to go.
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