wheel swap
#1
wheel swap
Just wanted to know if my 2000 five bar trans am wheels will fit on my 94 firebird formula. I heard the rear wheels needed to be machined slightly to fit over the rear hubs. Any one know if this is so and exactly what part needs machined and by how much. Thanks andy
#2
The back, center of the wheel that fits over the rear axle hub needs to be relieved just a little. You can sand, Dremel or file just enough to make it fit (keep test fitting it until it clears). Don't even think about forcing the wheels on with the lug nuts. The front ones will clear, but if you want to rotate them, you will have to relieve them, too.
#5
Originally posted by ppmz28
Is this true about putting 2000 Z wheels on a 94' b/c I have done this and changed nothing!!! THANKS!!
Is this true about putting 2000 Z wheels on a 94' b/c I have done this and changed nothing!!! THANKS!!
#6
I had to clearance mine to fit ('99 wheels onto a '94). The fronts will fit fine, the rears are the ones that need clearancing. You'll be able to tell if yours need it too...put one on the rear, tighten it down by hand (DO NOT USE AN IMPACT), and look to see if the wheel has butted up against the plate. If you see any gap at all (or if you can slip a piece of paper in between the two), you'll have to grind it out a little.
#7
Originally posted by Type_O_Negative_1320
I had to clearance mine to fit ('99 wheels onto a '94). The fronts will fit fine, the rears are the ones that need clearancing. You'll be able to tell if yours need it too...put one on the rear, tighten it down by hand (DO NOT USE AN IMPACT), and look to see if the wheel has butted up against the plate. If you see any gap at all (or if you can slip a piece of paper in between the two), you'll have to grind it out a little.
I had to clearance mine to fit ('99 wheels onto a '94). The fronts will fit fine, the rears are the ones that need clearancing. You'll be able to tell if yours need it too...put one on the rear, tighten it down by hand (DO NOT USE AN IMPACT), and look to see if the wheel has butted up against the plate. If you see any gap at all (or if you can slip a piece of paper in between the two), you'll have to grind it out a little.
#9
It would be much easier just to grind on the wheels. If you look at one of the wheels, you'll see a little "lip" inside the center that fits over the hub...that's what needs to be removed. It took me about 15 minutes per wheel with a power drill and a grinding bit (ghetto, but it worked).
I don't think machining the hub down would be a smart idea, but then again, I don't know enough about it to tell you not to. I'm just telling you what would be the easiest way to go.
I don't think machining the hub down would be a smart idea, but then again, I don't know enough about it to tell you not to. I'm just telling you what would be the easiest way to go.
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