My car still isn't running right, still is missing and popping. Everything is new except the MAF but thats reading fine on the scanner. It idles ok, sounds like a cammed motor but as soon as you try to accelerate it misses and pops.

I just had it apart to replace the Opti and when that came out the bearings were toast so I assumed that was the problem, but aparently it wasn't

The only thing that I can figure out is its either the plugs, wires, or the valves. Plugs are new Bosch Super+ gapped at .050, wires are Taylor Thundervolt 8.2, and I doubt its the valves since it does it no matter where the valves are set.

I am completely out of options here, I'm out of parts to replace and don't know what to do anymore. I'm going to wait till my motor cools off and take every plug wire off and rerun them 1 at a time to make sure its not the plug wires being crossed or burnt and I'll put in a set of TR55s while I'm at it.

Anything else you think I should look for? Any help would be appreciated

 

check the wiring that goes to your opti there are two plugs, make sure that the pins are all the way in the connector and that one has not pushed loose.

 

The plugs are good, and the wireing harness for the opti is new and it did the same thing before the new opti harness was installed

 

i think that maybe you still need to check the MAF..that kinda sounds like what an lt1 does when there is an unmetered air leak....so check your intake elbow and try and get that MAF checked.....

 

never assume new is good,you need to check your plugs and wires,turn the lights out and mist some water on the engine around the plugs and wires and see if you get a light show.

 

Mine is missing and popping now. Turns out my #6 plug wire got against the #4 header tube and melted. Didn't find it until it was dark out, started the engine and saw sparks. Hope it's this simple for you

 

Well I have some good news. Went out tonight and started taking the plug wires completely out for inspection and found that the #5 plug wire was completely burnt through, I guess that the Accell sleeves really don't help that much. So now I'm going to order a new set of wires, but I'm not going with Taylors again. Another drivers side wire had a slice in it from what I don't know but it was cut through to the fiberglass wrap.

I'm thinking of getting the MSD 8.5s and then wraping them in thermal tape and then the accel sleeves to stop then from being cut and burnt.

Thanks for all of the help guys, but I will let you know what happens with new plugs and wires.

 

Yeah its too bad I didn't find the burnt wire earlier today before the opti install, but my bearings were shot in my opti so it wasn't a pointless install

 

Stock wires have always worked for me. They don't look sexy, but get the job done.

Dan

 

I'm not worried about the looks, but I ordered a set of MSD 8.5s, I'm going to be ordering the MSD 6A box when I get some money and I have never had any problems with the MSDs, I should have ordered the min the first place But it probably wouldn't have mattered

 

If the wires don't help, you might wanna check your ICM, sounds like a similar problem i had.

 

No matter what kind of boot you put on it the heat from the header will still destroy the wire if they come in contact. No matter what brand the wire is.

You problem wasn't junky Taylor wires, it was **** poor installation. Running the fatter wires makes it more difficult to keep them off heat sources as well.

I run Taylors and have for years, no boots, no wrap. Get them to where they are not touching anything hot and secure them with zip ties. IMO the heat boots trap heat against the wire, make them hard to route PROPERLY and look like crap.

 

Yeah I agree and I said nothing about them being junk, but what about the cracks in the wires? They are only 3 months old and have cracks in them. I suppose that they could have got cut be something, but what I don't know

I'm not argueing with you, but I got the MSDs. But yes I'm going to take more time routing them this time, I put too much faith in the sleeves and it didn't play in my favor

 

Thats already been checked and the ICM and coil are fine

 

They crack because they got hot.