What will I get out of a 160 degree thermostat?
It will let the coolant start circulating at a lower temp than stock, but your fans will come on at the same time. You need to get programming done to get them to kick on at a lower temp to get the most benefit out of it.
You just need to find someone with a programmer tool, Hypertech or something like that. You could do it with a lap-top if you have the software and the cables to connect it. I suppose you could take it to the dealer as well, but that's more $$$$. The coolant flowing earlier should keep the engine temp a little lower. You probably wont get as much heat out of the heater in the winter though.
When I'm driving around the temp stays pretty low with the 160 degree thermostat, but if I'm just running my car in the garage the temp climbs much higher--which would be a good reason to either reprogram the fans to come on earlier or install a manual fan switch.
Your car will run a lot cooler, but if you desire heat in the winter, then I recomend having a higher temp stat in the winter. I froze my *** off driving this winter, unless I was stuck in traffic.
Well, I went ahead and purchased the new thermostat. I was reading on how to install it and my manual mentioned you have to drain the coolant down before you replace the stat. Has anyone done this? Is it a very difficult install?
Originally posted by tstewart9000
Well, I went ahead and purchased the new thermostat. I was reading on how to install it and my manual mentioned you have to drain the coolant down before you replace the stat. Has anyone done this? Is it a very difficult install?
Well, I went ahead and purchased the new thermostat. I was reading on how to install it and my manual mentioned you have to drain the coolant down before you replace the stat. Has anyone done this? Is it a very difficult install?
Really, you don't have to drain the coolant to replace the thermostat. Do this when the engine is cool (like after sitting overnight or for several hours where there is no residual pressure in the system).
You will have to remove the intake elbow. Stuff absorbent rags or towels all around the thermostat housing to catch any coolant when you take the housing loose. Not a lot will come out. Just keep it off your optispark. Swap the thermostats and put the housing back on. Don't overtighten the bolts, they can break. No gasket or sealant is needed other than the rubber o-ring that is on the thermostat, itself. Put everything back together and put whatever amount of coolant you lost back into the remote reservoir. After a few thermocycles, the system will pull any coolant lost from the reservoir. Idle the engine and monitor the temp. If the temp goes abnormally high, you may have an air pocket. Open the bleeder screws after the thermostat is open to remove any air. Only a stream of coolant will come out when all air is gone and there will be no spitting or hissing. Close screws and monitor the temp.
My server is down right now so the hyperlinks may not be working.
My car runs about 168 degrees, in warm weather or cool weather. If I'm in traffic it'll go to about 185, and once I get rolling it comes straight down.
You can't reprogram your fans just like that. A hypertech power programmer can only work on 1 car at a time (it remembers which one it's programmed to), and software such as LT1 Edit has to be programmed to work with a specific vehicle.
You can't reprogram your fans just like that. A hypertech power programmer can only work on 1 car at a time (it remembers which one it's programmed to), and software such as LT1 Edit has to be programmed to work with a specific vehicle.
ya with a good waterpump you don't need sealant, my stock replacement pump from the auto store leaked on mine, still only took a second to stop it with the goop. I drove my car all winter long, many days were below zero with the wind chill, and I had no problems at all, I had to keep the fan setting on low or else it was to hot(when it was freezing and above, not so with below that) As for the fans I believe many people just wire up a switch to control when they come on, you can also order a kit from some places for around 50-60 bucks that will turn them on lower. Personally I had pcmforless do mine, since it was only 100 bucks and included reprograming for fans, rear end gear, better timing for more power, and having air deleted for my longtubes. Can't beat a deal like that, now I'm going with a cam, so I'll need to send it back, which is 50 dollars after first program. would look into this place if your thinking of upgrading to other parts
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